Whistling f600

[schortie]

Our 6 month old Jotul f600 is sucking in air from the seem in the top right corner between the front and side plate. I held a lighter next to it and it sucked in the flame pretty good. I thought things were burning faster than they should have and I guess I found the reason. We haven't experienced temps that are extremely high - 600 on a full load isn't uncommon with the air shut down all the way, but it sure heats up in a hurry. Any suggestions on what to do about this - or the cause? Is there a quick fix, or do I need to get in touch with the dealer?

 

[cmonSTART]

Well, if it's a new stove I would get in contact with the dealer for warranty coverage, but if you're looking for a quick fix some gasket cement would probably work.

 

[NH_Wood]

I would be on the phone with the dealer yesterday. Cheers!

 

[BotetourtSteve]

My 600 had several seam leaks new from the factory as well that I pretty much discovered exactly the way you have, even in the same spot as I recall (among several other minor ones I discovered after the lighter trick). I used some high temp caulk and caulked all of the seams and voila, end of (minor) problem. The caulk is black, so it blended right in and did not affect looks at all. Much easier than going back to dealer or factory for such a simple problem and fix.

 

[BotetourtSteve]

600 on temps, huh? I swear, I've read about these temps for several years now and don't know if my thermo is off, or else have a tad too much draft from a tall chimney, but I just don't get there with mine. My absolutely highest temp is at 550, and she usually cruises around 400-450. And no, not wood. She puts out plenty of heat to meet my needs and burn times are as long as anyone else here for the most part, but I just wonder sometimes about what/why/how I could achieve those mystical higher temps. I flirted with the idea of a flue damper, but based on most recommendations that say don't use dampers on EPA stoves, I have avoided placing it in the pipe and left it sitting on the shelf for several years.

 

[schortie]

Thanks for the responses. I would be on the phone with the dealer, but the shop has a new owner and he's not so easy to deal with, and I don't want a hassle. The guy I actually bought the stove from was solid.

These 600* temps are new for the most part. It could be because of the colder temps lately, or the leak. It's probably a combination. We do have about 25' of pipe, so the draft is strong. Earlier, if I loaded some 16" splits n/s and others on top e/w on hot coals, I would definitely see higher temps, but packing for an overnight burn with larger 22" splits all e/w we would get a lower, steadier burn. Now, it's hard for it not to hit 600 on a full load no matter how I stack it.

I was thinking about trying to stuff a piece of a gasket in the channel, but it's not so deep and the silver gasket against the black/blue might look crappy. I also thought that using some stove cement would only be temporary, but it sounds like it might hold up for a while. I'll give it a shot.

 

[WOODBUTCHER]

Thanks for the responses. I would be on the phone with the dealer, but the shop has a new owner and he's not so easy to deal with. The guy I actually bought the stove from was solid.

These 600* temps are new for the most part. It could be because of the colder temps lately, or the leak. It's probably a combination. We do have about 25' of pipe, so the draft is strong. Earlier, if I loaded some 16" splits n/s and others on top e/w on hot coals, I would definitely see higher temps, but packing for an overnight burn with larger 22" splits all e/w we would get a lower, steadier burn. Now, it's hard for it not to hit 600 on a full load no matter how I stack it.

I was thinking about trying to stuff a piece of a gasket in the channel, but it's not so deep and the silver gasket against the black/blue might look crappy. I also thought that using some stove cement would only be temporary, but it sounds like it might hold up for a while. I'll give it a shot.

Be careful, that stove cement will stain your enamel real good and will just crumble/fall out over time. I'd be calling that dealer back...............you did say you bought it new 6 months ago correct?
Thats like buying a new car and having a defect in the weather stripping on one of the windows......just my 2 cents.

WoodButcher

 

[cmonSTART]

If you strike out with the new owner, try calling Jotul.

 

[Mad Tom]

600 on temps, huh? I swear, I've read about these temps for several years now and don't know if my thermo is off, or else have a tad too much draft from a tall chimney, but I just don't get there with mine. My absolutely highest temp is at 550, and she usually cruises around 400-450. And no, not wood. She puts out plenty of heat to meet my needs and burn times are as long as anyone else here for the most part, but I just wonder sometimes about what/why/how I could achieve those mystical higher temps. I flirted with the idea of a flue damper, but based on most recommendations that say don't use dampers on EPA stoves, I have avoided placing it in the pipe and left it sitting on the shelf for several years.

Steve, I would post this as a new thread. You will probably get some good answers. I had kind of the same problem my first year and I know it was the wood. My wood is a bit better now but not how I want it. First year I would be excited about 500. This year I have been up in the 600 + range. Next winter will be my first season with 2 year old wood. Your stove probably is built to run between 400 to 600 so being at or near 500 is middle road.

 

[schortie]

Talked to the dealer today, and he told me to get some stove cement. I told him that I was concerned about it being a temporary fix. He responded with, "Well, that's what I would do. I don' know what else you want from me."

I have looked for the number for Jotul, but haven't found it anywhere. Anyone care to point me in the right direction?

 

[dave360up]

On my Firelight F600 CB (new in March of this year) there is a gap between the top plate and the front plate that has been there from the time we got the stove. Anytime the temperature of the stove is rising, this gap is very visible as an orange stripe about a foot long as light from the flames leaks out through the gap. As the stove settles in at a temperature the size of the gap decreases so that flames are not visible through the gap. I had assumed that this was normal due to expansion differences in the plates. Reading about these other F600 gaps makes me wonder if it is normal.

I don't want to hijack this thread so I will start a new one about it this evening, but I thought that mentioning it here was also relevant to this discussion.

 

[BotetourtSteve]

Again, to respectfully disagree with several posters, I would simply get a tube of high-temp caulk and run a bead in all of the joints instead of going through the hassle of chasing after dealer/manufacturer. And that definitely applies to dave360up too! From everything I have researched here and elsewhere over the years both prior to and after buying a cast stove, having joint leaks is just kind of the nature of the beast with these things, and the fix is very easy. Someone compared it to having problems with a new car - most every new vehicle I've ever gotten inevitably needed to have a front end alignment due to manufacturing and/or transportation issues, and I just take it in stride as the nature of that beast-always figured it was more hassle to deal with the dealer than to just get it fixed and move on. I have had no problems with leaks or caulk deterioration/failure since I did this to mine almost 3 years ago, and I burn pretty much 24/7 from October thru March. Even with enamel coating, I can't imagine it impacting looks much, if at all as long as you know how to run a decent caulk bead. A 10 minute fix for a 10 cent problem. Now if the door fell off, baffles broke or something well then yea, Houston, we would have a problem!

 

[Elim]

Might give this a try. Good luck!


Contact Details
Jotul North America, Inc
Address:
400 Riverside Street, POB 1157, Portland, Maine (ME), 04104, USA
Tel:
work207 797 5912

 

[WOODBUTCHER]

Again, to respectfully disagree with several posters, I would simply get a tube of high-temp caulk and run a bead in all of the joints instead of going through the hassle of chasing after dealer/manufacturer. And that definitely applies to dave360up too! From everything I have researched here and elsewhere over the years both prior to and after buying a cast stove, having joint leaks is just kind of the nature of the beast with these things, and the fix is very easy. Someone compared it to having problems with a new car - most every new vehicle I've ever gotten inevitably needed to have a front end alignment due to manufacturing and/or transportation issues, and I just take it in stride as the nature of that beast-always figured it was more hassle to deal with the dealer than to just get it fixed and move on. I have had no problems with leaks or caulk deterioration/failure since I did this to mine almost 3 years ago, and I burn pretty much 24/7 from October thru March. Even with enamel coating, I can't imagine it impacting looks much, if at all as long as you know how to run a decent caulk bead. A 10 minute fix for a 10 cent problem. Now if the door fell off, baffles broke or something well then yea, Houston, we would have a problem!

We have 4 Jotuls in the family, 2 Oslo's, a Firelight and an F3CB.....and I've had several other cast stoves in the past and none of them had leaks or gaps where you could see an orange glow or whistling sounds.
That's just unaceptable quality control.... especially dave360up orange stripe.

Woodbutcher

 

[schortie]

Thanks for all the insights. I Got a chance to seal up the small leak. As was mentioned, it was a very easy fix. Shorter than the time to call Jotul. We'll see how it holds up. So far I'm seeing slower, more even burns. The only downside was that I had to let my stove cool down which meant that the furnace was on for the first time this season. I hate when that thing is running.

 

[webby3650]

Again, to respectfully disagree with several posters, I would simply get a tube of high-temp caulk and run a bead in all of the joints instead of going through the hassle of chasing after dealer/manufacturer. And that definitely applies to dave360up too! From everything I have researched here and elsewhere over the years both prior to and after buying a cast stove, having joint leaks is just kind of the nature of the beast with these things, and the fix is very easy. Someone compared it to having problems with a new car - most every new vehicle I've ever gotten inevitably needed to have a front end alignment due to manufacturing and/or transportation issues, and I just take it in stride as the nature of that beast-always figured it was more hassle to deal with the dealer than to just get it fixed and move on. I have had no problems with leaks or caulk deterioration/failure since I did this to mine almost 3 years ago, and I burn pretty much 24/7 from October thru March. Even with enamel coating, I can't imagine it impacting looks much, if at all as long as you know how to run a decent caulk bead. A 10 minute fix for a 10 cent problem. Now if the door fell off, baffles broke or something well then yea, Houston, we would have a problem!

We have 4 Jotuls in the family, 2 Oslo's, a Firelight and an F3CB.....and I've had several other cast stoves in the past and none of them had leaks or gaps where you could see an orange glow or whistling sounds.
That's just unaceptable quality control.... especially dave360up orange stripe.

Woodbutcher

I have had several Jotuls and install them almost daily, this not normal at all! You need this corrected by Jotul and they also need to know the way the local dealer has responded to the problem. Squirting some caulking into the crack is just a band-aid on a bigger problem that will continue to haunt you.

 

[jotulguy]

Might give this a try. Good luck!


Contact Details
Jotul North America, Inc
Address:
400 Riverside Street, POB 1157, Portland, Maine (ME), 04104, USA
Tel:
work207 797 5912

Why would anyone call the manufacture? They are not in your home town, they arent the installer, and they dont have service people to come out and fix an issues that you are having. If you buy a Sony TV from Best Buy do you call Sony if it breaks or Best Buy? I recommend calling your dealer. If he isnt able to help you with this issue PM me and I will try and get you some help from another local dealer in your area. I agree it needs to be fixed but the manufacture isnt going to be the one to do the fix.