Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by letsblaze, Dec 1, 2012.
Here is a complete video of a startup cycle and code shutdown.
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No help from me.
But that is a HUGE FLAME. OVERFIRE
The flame seems active. Stove shouldn't be dirty?
But seems like to much fuel once the flame starts? By the time it starts, it seems to full?
How far open is the draft? More air will help the start up process.
Is the High temp snap disc an auto reset?
The burn pot is already more than half full of pellets when the video starts, so the stove must have been on for several minutes here. To me this indicates that the igniter is not delivering enough heat. Maybe it needs to be replaced?
For my part I can tell you that I'm NOT a big fan of autoigniters. I unplugged it many years ago on my Quest Plus and have been lighting it manually ever since.
Other than the slow ignition issue your P20 clearly seems to be in a very good condition... nice bright and stiff flames, once it has burnt the large amount of accumulated pellets, which causes the overheat condition
Try to light it manually a couple of times. That way you should hopefully enjoy your P20 perform a perfect start up... the pellets won't be able to accumulate this way, and you will have a stable fire from the very beginning!! The overfilled burn pot is almost choking the air flow through it and your neighbours see a lot of smoke signals from your vent
With that stove it's about 2 minutes from on to good smoke/flame.
Seems way too slow for initial ignition....that's why the pot is so full. I had the same issue w/ my 10-cpm until I realized that the ignitor was on the way out.....it was only getting hot on 1/2 it's length (7-8 minutes until flame and full pot).
Once I installed new ignitor, 2-3 minutes to flame and no full pot.
Try what Stovenson suggests above....a handful of pellets and manually light.
But that don't explain the shut down when she went from low to medium yesterday.
Fix one problem at a time, or at least make sure you don't have an ignition problem to begin with.
I have a Profile 20 that i have ran for about 4 yrs, my did the same thing. How far have you cleaned out in the back? There are two channels that get plugged up against the back of the brick wall, inside the back of the stove.
You have to pull the exhaust blower and the draft plate out in order to reach it. The reason the pot is filling is because you are not getting the proper draft, you should see the pellets dancing in the pot.
Clean that sucker out, air compressor, leaf blower, trap clean out pound on the rear of the firebox (no fake brick installed please). Brushes in the traps make sure you get all of them open, brushes from the center above the pot to both sides and down into the traps and up from the traps.
Don't be surprised if you suck out a couple of animals etc ... maybe a caramel or two.
Does that seem to be the consonses?
Yep... The Whit's have some hard to clean areas. Just ask Snowy Rivers She is a firm believer in the LBT
You have to tear it down past the draft plate in order to clean out the left shaft/right shaft
Look letsblaze, don't make Cliff travel all the way down there to give you a stove cleaning lesson in person.
Get back to work!.
Pops is going to get a 4in to 3in rubber connector to use the leaf blower.
So there is a passage inside that goes from the left side of the burn box to the right side where the combustion blower goes?
There are two passageways one on the right and one on the left that end up coming together on the intake side of the combustion blower before the draft plate. These come from the firebox ash traps and run behind the fire box, if I'm understanding Cliff correctly. Open the damper and go for the LBT.
LBT is leaf blower treatment?
Yes ..... remember the thumping and brush work and trap removal etc ......
ETA: This is the make a mess, remove the mess routine that thumping and brush work leaves a mess in the stove the LBT removes it.
Your right Smokey,
the LBT helps but i found you have to get in there with a coat hanger, and a small vac
Do you have a Ipad or Iphone with Facetalk? I can alk you thru the process
I don't, I run that silly Android.
If the LBT don't work then I will pull the combustion blower and go from the back.
Remember you have to remove both fans and of course the auger motor, also there is a small bar that rotates downward. It is loosened by reaching in thru the room fan opening. When i cleaned mine i should have made a video, but i did'nt
So get your tools and Fix that stove
Wtf did I get myself into????
Why did they design this like so?
I hope the hammer and leaf blower works.
I've found that most messes can be loosened up by thumping and poking from both ends, this is a slight variation on the St. Croix setup.
Once you get it really cleaned out a regular at the ton mark high volume air flow will keep it clean.
Unfortunately people don't do that from day one and only after it really gums up the works do they attempt to do something about it. That something is dump it on the used market.
Well like i said there is 2 passages one going left and one going right that gets plugged with fly ash and then it cuts down on your draft. Also whats your pellet feed set at?. That is adjusted behind the door on your control board.
It would save you alot of time if you had some way to live video the back of your stove then i could walk you thru it
The Avalon Astoria's designed is very similar to the Whitfields. I think I proved if those chambers behind the fierbox were plugged with ash, then you would get less air, lazy flame and a real dirty burn. See link below.
The hi limit snap discs are 250 degree minus 30 degrees F ? See diagram
Anyway, I have seen these discs go bad or not work right. That must be the problem. Just make up a simple jumper and jump one disc out and run the stove. Then jump the other out and run the stove. This will tell you which one is bad. That is what I would do.
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