whitfield pellet stove auger

[kimbre]

Hi there i have a whitfield pellet stove that the auger has stopped. i have been following the links in this forum and have done everything that it says and still nothing i have cleaned the stove from front to back and even the chimney. still nothing any ideas would be greatly appreciated

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Hi there i have a whitfield pellet stove that the auger has stopped. i have been following the links in this forum and have done everything that it says and still nothing i have cleaned the stove from front to back and even the chimney. still nothing any ideas would be greatly appreciated

Well we can start at the beginning.

Tell us what happens when you try starting it up.

 

[kimbre]

Ok here goes... i bought this stove in august and installed it. IN november i used it about 5 times a week and it worked very well. a couple of times i started it and the auger didn't go i thought it was just me, i couldn't find anything wrong restarted it and away it went. Over the last two weeks i have had to turn it up to 5 and it didn't seem like the auger was keeping up to the fire ,it just seemed slow dropping pellets in. on the past weekend it ran with no problems until
saturday morning when it went out , the burn unit was empty and the bin had lots of pellets. since then when i tried to start it it goes but no pellets the auger isn't turning. today i emptyed the bin and removed the auger and checked the motor i took the fire bricks out and vaccuumed everything out , i cleaned the ash bin and vaccuumed it all out. i cleaned out the pipes and the chimney clean out and seem to have lots of draw there,i removed the exhaust fan and scraped out the vent from the fire box to the chimney. i checked the hose from the exhaust to the pressure switch it was empty i placed it on the pressure switch and blew into it and i could hear it clicking so i am assuming it is working i also blew into it the other way and there is no resistance there either. the flame seemed to be better tonight but still no pellets. i have also noticed in the last two weeks that there is ash/dust in the room where the stove is, i dont know if there is any thing to do with it or not, cause i am new to these stoves im not sure what else i can tell you. any help would be great kimbre

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

The first thing I'd check for is to see if the auger is jammed or if the auger is no longer securely connected to the auger motor. Sometimes the set screw isn't properly positioned and tight, the motor spins but the auger doesn't. Normally you can hear the auger turning if there is proof of fire or if you press any manual feed buttons, most folks can also tell if the auger motor actually turns on.

If you don't mind playing with electricity (remember this is dangerous and can kill you), with the stove off, cold , and unplugged, disconnect the wires from the auger motor.

Make up a patch cord from an extension cord by cutting the socket end off. Then wire the extension cord to the auger motor. After connecting to the motor plug the cord into a wall outlet. If the motor starts and delivers pellets to the burn pot at least the motor, coupling, and auger are fine. Unplug the cord and put everything back the way it was.

If the motor, coupling , and auger work the problem resides somewhere in the safeties, proof of fire, or the controller.

Does your stove have a manual reset hi temperature (over fire, over limit, ...) snap disc it should be indicated in your manual if it does. Sometimes firing at the higher rates for long periods of time caused the hi limit to trip, if the hi limit is a manual reset you have to press a little red button that is in the center of the back of the snap disc.

I'm going to stop here until you have a chance to decide if you feel comfortable doing this, a lot of people aren't.

 

[kimbre]

good morning... ok so i got the cord and jumped the motor and it works fine dropped the pellets in i dont have a reset button that i could find would you have any idea where to look....could i take a pig tail and light and go backward on the wire leads to see if there is power coming thru the wires from the control panel thanks again for your hlep

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

good morning... ok so i got the cord and jumped the motor and it works fine dropped the pellets in i dont have a reset button that i could find would you have any idea where to look....could i take a pig tail and light and go backward on the wire leads to see if there is power coming thru the wires from the control panel thanks again for your hlep

What you need to do next is check the proof of fire system if that doesn't work you will not get the stove to feed pellets.

Another thing that could happen although a slim possibility is that your damper is open to much and is blowing the fire out before the proof of fire system indicates a fire or while the fire is actually burning but the stove is on a low firing rate.

I'm surprised that Snowy Rivers hasn't chimed in as she has a couple of Whitfields, or a couple of others on here like MrWhitfield who has several.

If you have a multimeter you can trace out the entire proof of fire system and the vacuum switch, sometimes they click and the air paths are open but the insides are shot or there is a leak in the hose.

If there is a photo eye in the proof of fire system sometimes that is clean but the path to the fire isn't.

You can PM David Gault hearth.com member Wood Heat Stoves if he gets the model and serial number he may be able to provide you with the service manual for your stove. He also carries parts for a number of stoves. He usually doesn't say much on the forum but does help folks.

 

[pastera]

I believe you have a pressure sensor on the combustion blower - no pellet feed if the blower is not working.

Pull the silicon tube off of the combustion blower housing and clean the nipple out - if there is carbon built up it can stop the pellets from feeding.

http://www.hearthtools.com/parts/whitfield_wire_diagrams.pdf

Aaron

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

I believe you have a pressure sensor on the combustion blower - no pellet feed if the blower is not working.

Pull the silicon tube off of the combustion blower housing and clean the nipple out - if there is carbon built up it can stop the pellets from feeding.

http://www.hearthtools.com/parts/whitfield_wire_diagrams.pdf

Aaron

The OP did this in regards to the "pressure/vacuum" switch

"i checked the hose from the exhaust to the pressure switch it was empty i placed it on the pressure switch and blew into it and i could hear it clicking so i am assuming it is working i also blew into it the other way and there is no resistance there either. "

You are correct that could be a cause of the problem, but the OP likely ruled it out by the actions already done.

 

[Wood Heat Stoves]

low limit/high limit, neither will stop pellet feed during start cycle.

either pressure switch (have you actually bypassed it?
or wiring/control board
i'd lean towards pressure switch

and yes, please feel free to pm me for the svc book. include make model serial number, and your email address.

there are a few oddball issues with some models, which one are we referring to?

 

[kimbre]

Hi there ok so here is the latest i went into town and got a new a new seal for the door. installed. i rechecked the motor and it worked good i rechecked the high limit switch and seemed ok i checked the low limit switch i made a jumper wire and started the pellet stove and no auger in anger i "tapped" (lol) the switch plugged it back in and GUESS WHAT THE AUGER IS WORKING i have no idea what i did to make it work but i now have heat if anyone has an idea PLEASE share it with me thanks for your time you guys rock kimbre

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Hi there ok so here is the latest i went into town and got a new a new seal for the door. installed. i rechecked the motor and it worked good i rechecked the high limit switch and seemed ok i checked the low limit switch i made a jumper wire and started the pellet stove and no auger in anger i "tapped" (lol) the switch plugged it back in and GUESS WHAT THE AUGER IS WORKING i have no idea what i did to make it work but i now have heat if anyone has an idea PLEASE share it with me thanks for your time you guys rock kimbre

Please forgive me, but exactly what switch did you tap?

 

[kimbre]

faceing the furnace i removed the screws on the right hand side, just inside the door is a little sensor i am asuming is the low switch, it is about one inch across and about an inch thick with two leads coming out of it . i made a small jumper wire and inserted it into the two wires and nothing. i put the wires back on and that is the one that i tapped and now it is working. the stove has run for about 3 hrs now. do you think there is a problem with that switch.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

faceing the furnace i removed the screws on the right hand side, just inside the door is a little sensor i am asuming is the low switch, it is about one inch across and about an inch thick with two leads coming out of it . i made a small jumper wire and inserted it into the two wires and nothing. i put the wires back on and that is the one that i tapped and now it is working. the stove has run for about 3 hrs now. do you think there is a problem with that switch.

Given the schematic in the link provided earlier in this thread can you locate that snap disc. Depending on which one it is replacement may be in order.

Most of the snap discs are safeties of one form or another and should be operating correctly.

 

[kimbre]

i was lookin at the wiring diagram and it looks like the ihl the intake high limit switch does that make sence i cant seem to find a picture of it to verify. i could take a picture of it tommorrow morning and send it to you thanks kimbre

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

i was lookin at the wiring diagram and it looks like the ihl the intake high limit switch does that make sence i cant seem to find a picture of it to verify. i could take a picture of it tommorrow morning and send it to you thanks kimbre

By all means, send me a picture.

 

[kimbre]

Hi there sorry i havnt gotten back to you the snow started and we recieved 4 ft in 3 days, busy moving snow and getting grandkids back home.... sooo the pellet stove is not working again..ahhhhh i have cleaned it out again and started it up last night ran perfect...still seems slow getting pellets in (on 5 in a 12 x 15 room and only at 70 degrees) but it is working shut it down for the night and started it this morning and again no fricken pellets :bug: i called a dealer and he is checking for avaliability and price for the low limit switch :down: hope he has one . the pc i tapped the other night to get it working was on the right hand side facing the stove . it is inside the side panel on the right hand side with two brown wires going into it (alittle bit bigger then a quarter) it just goes flat up against the backside of the fire box...if anyone has a suggestion please help.....thanks kim :-S

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Hi there sorry i havnt gotten back to you the snow started and we recieved 4 ft in 3 days, busy moving snow and getting grandkids back home.... sooo the pellet stove is not working again..ahhhhh i have cleaned it out again and started it up last night ran perfect...still seems slow getting pellets in (on 5 in a 12 x 15 room and only at 70 degrees) but it is working shut it down for the night and started it this morning and again no fricken pellets :bug: i called a dealer and he is checking for avaliability and price for the low limit switch :down: hope he has one . the pc i tapped the other night to get it working was on the right hand side facing the stove . it is inside the side panel on the right hand side with two brown wires going into it (alittle bit bigger then a quarter) it just goes flat up against the backside of the fire box...if anyone has a suggestion please help.....thanks kim :-S

That is a high limit switch it opens at 250 degrees and closes again at 230 degrees and below.

It and its companion hi limit switch are in series with the auger motor any of the three can prevent the auger from turning.

Now I'm faced with a problem, if I tell you to bypass that switch you taped and freed up I'd be placing you in a possible hazardous situation.

I'll let you decide if you want to bypass it.

Whatever you do be certain to clean the convection air path and blower, lube the blower motor if it can be and get a replacement high limit snap disc.

 

[Delta-T]

a bad high limit should stop the auger all together, bypassing it should let you know if its good or not, as Smokey says, bypassing it and running it thus is not advisable (for safety reasons). The low limit switch would allow the stove to feed and light, but it would shut down at about the 15 minute mark pretty consistently (same thing would happen if you had a bad or dirty photoeye, if your unit has one).

i'm not positive across the board, but a lot of the low limit (sometimes called a Proof of Fire, or POF switch) are white or cream colored and ceramic, whereas the high limits are frequently black with stickers denoting the temps and such.

 

[kimbre]

thanks for your help guys the sensor is made of black plastic with a steel cover on the back....202795 t-o-d 9403 L250-309 it has two brown wires going into it i have no problem with jumping it which i already did and it didnt change anything....i would never run this stove with any saftey switch permantly disabled i just need to figure out which switch is faulty thanks for your help guys kimbre

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

thanks for your help guys the sensor is made of black plastic with a steel cover on the back....202795 t-o-d 9403 L250-309 it has two brown wires going into it i have no problem with jumping it which i already did and it didnt change anything....i would never run this stove with any saftey switch permantly disabled i just need to figure out which switch is faulty thanks for your help guys kimbre

There are two of those, plus the vacuum switch.

 

[Delta-T]

thanks for your help guys the sensor is made of black plastic with a steel cover on the back....202795 t-o-d 9403 L250-309 it has two brown wires going into it i have no problem with jumping it which i already did and it didnt change anything....i would never run this stove with any saftey switch permantly disabled i just need to figure out which switch is faulty thanks for your help guys kimbre

There are two of those, plus the vacuum switch.

or, if you only speak Pirate

thar be two a them, arg. ;-)

 

[kimbre]

lol so is that the low limit switch and how much money do they cost where do i find the second one i have only found one and a big (about two-three inchs across) steel it is the one that the red hose goes into

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

lol so is that the low limit switch and how much money do they cost where do i find the second one i have only found one and a big (about two-three inchs across) steel it is the one that the red hose goes into

No there are two high limit switches on some of the whitfields. There is one in each power lead off of the auger. One is against the firebox wall and the other against the drop chute, if the names are any indication. One protects the firebox/heat exchanger and the other guards against drop chute burn back.

 

[Delta-T]

the disk with the hose on it is the pressure sensor (i often describe them as UFO looking). I dont recall seeing, which whitfield unit is this?

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

With some digital control boards you might have to reset them by unplugging waiting a bit then plug them back in and turn the stove on.

It all depends,

The high limit switches are supposed to have brown wires going to them, the same as your auger motor.