Hello all, I'm a newbie to the forum, which is very informative to me, So here is my problem, the convection fan is running hi when my auger goes on, but then it slows down to the setting I put it on, and so forth. My question here is, is this a control board issue, or a fan issue?...your input would be much appreciated..
Whitfield wp2 insert fan problem
- Thread starter Emilio
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Snowy Rivers
Minister of Fire
The control board is taking a Poop.
The convection fan should run at whatever speed you set it at.
The Whit's use a Triac to control the fan speed.
To complicate things, the fan speed is also governed by the fuel feed rate (Heat setting)
With the heat setting on a higher level the fan will only run just so low.
To get a very low fan setting requires that the stove be on a low setting.
Snowy
The convection fan should run at whatever speed you set it at.
The Whit's use a Triac to control the fan speed.
To complicate things, the fan speed is also governed by the fuel feed rate (Heat setting)
With the heat setting on a higher level the fan will only run just so low.
To get a very low fan setting requires that the stove be on a low setting.
Snowy
Snowy, thank you for replying, I had a hunch it was the control board, since I took out the fan, and thoroughly cleaned it, and the surrounding area, but still continued with the problem..at this point it works great aside the fan issue..should I stop using it, and maybe get another board, or would it be cheaper to get this board repaired?..
magentaman
Member
Control board. I had the same thing happen many years ago. Replaced the motor, same problem. Then the auger started acting up. Replace the auger, same problem. Control board was the culprit.
I am curious how old your stove is. Mine was from the early 90's and had the OLD control board with knobs. The replacement was a touch pad.
I am curious how old your stove is. Mine was from the early 90's and had the OLD control board with knobs. The replacement was a touch pad.
My stove was manufactured in the early 90's a well, and it does have the old knob style control board..how much did you pay for your replacement board?..and was it difficult to install it since it was a touch pad instead of knob?
Stovensen
Minister of Fire
Before spending hundreds of $$ on a new touch pad control board, I certainly would give the old one an extra chance... if your board is the same as the one shown on the pic below, then I count several components that might cause your stoves strange behaviour:
1: Dirty potentiometers. I count three including the small trimmer. Contact cleaning spray ( available in all electronics shops ) will most likely make those pots work as new again. Note: The red auger on/off switch for the pellet feed may also need some cleaning to ensure a rock solid connection.
2: Leaking electrolytic capacitors. I count two above the ICs at the bottom of the pcb. Carefully write down the capacity, voltage rating and polarity. These caps are very cheap... only a few $.
I hope you are handy with a soldering iron or else visit the nearest tv/radio repair shop and bring the technicians some cookies/cakes for their coffee break... then I'm sure they will help you
3: I count three Triacs on the pcb... two with heat sinks ( for the blowers ) and one without heatsink ( for the augermotor ). These are most likely standard types available for a few $ in your local electronics shop. Since it's only your room blower that runs on high when it shouldn't, only the Triac for this blower needs replacement, but as a precaution I would change both blower Triacs.
4: The bypass relay is the square shaped block with a transparent plastic cover. Write down what's written on it and do a Google search... it's most likely a standard type still available and if not, some pin-to-pin substitute version with the same specs should be possible to find. Well assorted electronics shops are generally very helpful in such cases.
Also, the molex connector and all solderings on the pcb board should be inspected with lamp and magnifying glass and cleaned and possibly resoldered.
I would start by cleaning the three pots, the slide switch and the molex connector and if that doesn't help... replace the components as suggested above.
I'm convinced that you can make your rotary knob control board as new again and enjoy the heat from your Whit for many years to come.
Good luck and keep us posted
1: Dirty potentiometers. I count three including the small trimmer. Contact cleaning spray ( available in all electronics shops ) will most likely make those pots work as new again. Note: The red auger on/off switch for the pellet feed may also need some cleaning to ensure a rock solid connection.
2: Leaking electrolytic capacitors. I count two above the ICs at the bottom of the pcb. Carefully write down the capacity, voltage rating and polarity. These caps are very cheap... only a few $.
I hope you are handy with a soldering iron or else visit the nearest tv/radio repair shop and bring the technicians some cookies/cakes for their coffee break... then I'm sure they will help you
3: I count three Triacs on the pcb... two with heat sinks ( for the blowers ) and one without heatsink ( for the augermotor ). These are most likely standard types available for a few $ in your local electronics shop. Since it's only your room blower that runs on high when it shouldn't, only the Triac for this blower needs replacement, but as a precaution I would change both blower Triacs.
4: The bypass relay is the square shaped block with a transparent plastic cover. Write down what's written on it and do a Google search... it's most likely a standard type still available and if not, some pin-to-pin substitute version with the same specs should be possible to find. Well assorted electronics shops are generally very helpful in such cases.
Also, the molex connector and all solderings on the pcb board should be inspected with lamp and magnifying glass and cleaned and possibly resoldered.
I would start by cleaning the three pots, the slide switch and the molex connector and if that doesn't help... replace the components as suggested above.
I'm convinced that you can make your rotary knob control board as new again and enjoy the heat from your Whit for many years to come.
Good luck and keep us posted
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magentaman
Member
Emilio said:
This was back in 2003 or 2004 and I paid $250.00 online. It was plug and play.
The advice given by Stovensen is very good advise and well with the try. I also see folks offering to rebuild or repair old control boards for less then you can buy one.
Good luck and keep us posted as you proceed!
Stovensen, thank you for the information, and how to check the board. The board you posted is not like the one I have..my board is silver face plated, a fan adjust knob, a heat setting knob, and then 3 fine trim nods..i will take a look and see if the back label is the same...again, thank you.
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