Why my pellet stove don't throw as much heat as it did before?

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Randy

Member
May 17, 2012
87
Canada
howtobuildplans.com
Why is it that my pellet stove don't throw as much heat as it always did?
I have tried different types of pellets,
adjusted the air many many times for max. heat output and I keep the stove clean etc...
I purchased a high heat thermometer ( when I bought the stove) and placed on the front ports that the heat comes out of and it used to read 350 degrees F and now it reaches max. 275 degrees F max.
It is a Glowboy bayview stove by Danson and about 7 years old.
Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated? Thanks!!
 
Sounds like it and it's venting needs a real good deep cleaning.
 
Thanks so much for the reply and could you be a little more specific? The chimney is clean and clear. I clean the pipes inside that the fan blows the air through to extract heat from the stove. Is it they are not clean enough? Thanks!!
 
What brand pellets are you burning? Same brand that was producing the 350F?

What has been your maintenance routine? Do you clean the internal exhaust pathways and venting after every ton? Have you been cleaning both fans (pulling exhaust fan, cleaning and replace gasket; convection fan blades; using compressed air on motor windings on both and lubricate as required)? Gaskets pass the dollar bill test?
 
From the manual:
ASH TRAPS: [COLD STOVE ONLY] Remove the back firebrick panel from the firebox area. This will expose the two ash traps and the fuel drop shute. Fly ash may be removed by vacuuming inside the trap areas. It is also good to use a brush (bottle cleaner) to reach up and down to scrape the build up off the metal areas.

I attach a hose to the end of my shop vac (with drywall filter) and run it into internal exhaust spaces after the brushing - I use a cheap dryer vent lint brush due to the configuration of my stove. Many follow up this cleaning with the Leaf Blower Trick. Use the search box top right and you should find a video - just make sure your tubing to the vacuum switch is disconnected if you try this...

Keep us posted...
 
I don't know the specifics of your particular stove, but as Lake Girl said, check your manual for all the areas to clean, ash traps etc. Also inspect all gaskets and remove and clean motors and windings.
 
Make sure your heat exchanger is clean, Ash is a good insulator.
 
Thanks and I am using both brand pellets that were producing the 350 D.
The gaskets seam to be fitting fine and tight against stove.

Didn't clean the exhaust fan as I can't get at the fan without removing the complete housing. the exhaust motor is making noise (as the bearing is getting bad) when I first start up the stove (1-2 minutes)..after that it makes no noise.. There is nowhere to oil the exhaust fan motor and it has been on the stove about 3-4 years with any oil added to it.

I did clean the blower motor fan that blows the heat into my house with an air compressor.

I hope this explains all? Thanks so much.
 
As stated above. You may be missing some overlooked areas on the cleaning. I am not familiar with your stove but if it is operating correctly as it did before the loss of heat I would say it is the quality of pellets or needing some ash removed. I shot my stove with an IR temp gun when it was caked up with ash needing a clean in a bad way and after the clean. Big difference in temperature output. BIG.

At 7 years old what replacement parts and maintenance have you done? Door gaskets? Maybe you are not getting a true complete burn of said pellets. Not sure but start with the cheap and easy fixes first which is widely recommended here by many. Can you give some more details of what you have done, haven't done, changes in pellet brands, etc;???? Need more info to work with here. It could be as simple as the fuel you are now using. Seven years is magical number here recently where some simple maintenance or lack there of has played the part of poor performance.
 
The exhaust cavity does collect ash as does the impeller blades on the exhaust motor - get a gasket and remove and clean that. Motor has to work harder if blades are not clean. If it is squeaking on start up, you might want to get a replacement blower soon. Bearing drag could be slowing the current one down slightly. Some have had success replacing bearings but not sure if that is in your skill set;)

If the exhaust blower is weakening, more ash will collect in the internal pathways reducing efficiency. Clean out the ash traps and heat exhanger areas too.

If the gaskets have not been replaced, they should get replaced too. Very inexpensive maintenance... door, hopper lid, ash pan if it has one.
 
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Randy there was just another thread on the exhaust fan recently that needed some oil. Not cleaning this key component will affect performance and the fact it is making noise obviously isn't right. You may have already figured it out to a degree.
 
Just had another stove owner found that replacing the gaskets got the stove running like it should. Have you done the dollar bill test all the way around the doors? Venting the room air out and not getting air properly thru the fire and thru the exchanger can be a major issue with stoves starting at about five years.
 
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Make sure your heat exchanger is clean, Ash is a good insulator.

I second this. When I get behind the plates of my 52i and vacuum off the ash layer on the heat transfer surfaces, the air coming out of the distribution blower becomes markedly hotter.
 
Thanks and I am using both brand pellets that were producing the 350 D.
The gaskets seam to be fitting fine and tight against stove.

Didn't clean the exhaust fan as I can't get at the fan without removing the complete housing. the exhaust motor is making noise (as the bearing is getting bad) when I first start up the stove (1-2 minutes)..after that it makes no noise.. There is nowhere to oil the exhaust fan motor and it has been on the stove about 3-4 years with any oil added to it.

I did clean the blower motor fan that blows the heat into my house with an air compressor.

I hope this explains all? Thanks so much.
I check my stove gaskets with a charcoal grill lighter, if when you run the flame along the door line seams and at any spot the flame gets sucked into the seam, even right into the stove, then you have a leak. Other people do the dollar bill test. Placing a bill against the stove with the door open and close the door. Do this all along the doors gasket area. If the bill slips out easy you probably have a leak. Another poster thought his door gaskets looked good and in two spots the flame of a grill lighter got sucked in. You can't tell by looking at your gaskets, you have to test them.

As has been mentioned, if a motor squeals then good chance it's dragging and not running up to speed.. A slow combustion motor means less performance. Eventually it will fail all together.

Another poster helped a friend whose stove wouldn't run and who thought the stove was clean. Until our poster got there and pulled the baffles out and found it clogged up. Don't assume anything ! Not only that but the owner didn't think a dirty stove would not start, well it fired right up after proper cleaning.
 
Thanks everyone I will take your advice. About the grill lighter that is the same I was thinking to do and was waiting til I went to the store to buy one. You guys are great (friends). Love this forum.
 
Thanks everyone I will take your advice. About the grill lighter that is the same I was thinking to do and was waiting til I went to the store to buy one. You guys are great (friends). Love this forum.
A candle works too ( awkward along the floor obviously).
 
Thanks all my friends you were right. It was the gasket that wasn't fitting correctly and needed a little cleaning of the heat transfer pipes. Thanks.
 
Glad you got her back.
 
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