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  1. Heat1

    Heat1 New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2012
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    i just cleaned stove and now it wont start. checked and cleaned the proof of fire snap switch.also cleaned burn pot ash try and all passageways.when i start the control board and ready light are green it starts and it feeds pellets into pot but when it comes to ignite i get error on the ready light of one short blink and one long which says it the vacuam switch. tried bybassing both the snap switch and vacuam switch with same error. i beleive it is the igniter but i dont want to start replacing parts that dont need to be replaced. also was wondering if there is a cheaper igniter switch out there as the ones i looked at are between 108 -128 dollars plus shipping. any ideas would be helpful as it is getting cold and the wife idoesnt like to be cold.

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  2. Delta-T

    Delta-T Minister of Fire

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    hmmm, bypassing the vac sensor should negate that error no matter what. It also shouldn't feed any pellets if there is not vac environment to begin with...very strange. HOw long from the time it feeds pellets to the time you get the error code?
  3. Heat1

    Heat1 New Member

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    Oct 10, 2012
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    not long it starts the ignition seqence and i have green lights on all lights then i press start it flashes ready light and then feeding light green but when it gets to iniiting light a couple of seconds and then the error light flashes on the ready light one short and one long. But in the manual it says if the igniter is bad the ready light will be constant red. i think it is the igniter and am going to try to replace it and see what happens. i was just wondering if you know of anywhere to order parts for winslows that is cheaper?
  4. imacman

    imacman Guest

    Remove the ignitor, or at least disconnect it and try running direct 120 volts to it while it's in the stove.....if it gets red, there are other problems.
  5. Delta-T

    Delta-T Minister of Fire

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    the winslow igniter is sorta odd that the rod sits inside a tube making it somewhat difficult to judge if its working correctly. They are notorious for partially heating up, giving the impression that they want to work.
  6. Delta-T

    Delta-T Minister of Fire

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    if you have multi-meter..a good igniter reads about 36 ohms.
  7. briansol

    briansol Minister of Fire

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    I have this stove...insert model, but it's the same thing more or less. it can be a PITA because she's a picky girl. You gotta know how to touch her just right. lol

    Make sure your door is sealed tight. DONT just use the lever to lock it closed. PUSH the door closed, THEN latch it down. I found this to be a common problem. Make sure the rope seal is good and tight and not dirty. You may need to replace this seal if it's worn.

    you are likely losing vac that way through the door.
    also, if you installed the hopper cover kill switch, make sure that there's no crud in there and that the lid is closed tightly.

    I've had just about EVERY problem with this stove (usually ended up being nothing major... just a pita to find it) but ever had any ignitor problems.

    About how long does it take before it starts flashing the error code?
  8. Heat1

    Heat1 New Member

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    took out igniter and ohm tested has 0 ohms resistance. is the rod inside supposed to touch the side it looks like it is bent when you look down it?
    also how do you hook a 120 to the igniter to check it
  9. Heat1

    Heat1 New Member

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    Oct 10, 2012
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    hooked it up to 120 volts and it gets red but takes a little bit
  10. briansol

    briansol Minister of Fire

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    I would say that is normal. It takes a while to glow during normal operation. I never tested mine with a meter, nor have one, so i can't say.
  11. Heat1

    Heat1 New Member

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    so what is it? the vacaum switch? thats what the control boad is saying
  12. briansol

    briansol Minister of Fire

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    when the vac switch throws a code, and it's not the switch, there is likely a vac leak. Check the door seal as I mentioned above as it's a likely culprit. It needs ot be closed REAL tight, then latched.
  13. Heat1

    Heat1 New Member

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    just checked the door seal reajusted latch so its real tight. retried still same code
  14. Heat1

    Heat1 New Member

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    is there a way to bypass switch and try?
  15. briansol

    briansol Minister of Fire

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    jumping it effectively bypases it (stops it from breaking circuit)


    If it worked before the cleaning, and not after... do it agian.

    I've been there.

    Just clean it piece by piece like you did the first time again, and be super aware of tightening things down good and tight and seals are good. Most the time, this ends up working.
  16. Heat1

    Heat1 New Member

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    Oct 10, 2012
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    does the ash drawer seal matter becasuse i emptied the tray and cleaned passageways. i looked at it again the door seal looks good but the ash drawer seal is coming apart but is that enough to stop stove? If so were do i get another gasket?
  17. briansol

    briansol Minister of Fire

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    My stove doesn't have an ash drawer. its the biggest difference in the two models. i have to vac out the area around the burn pot with the door open. So i can't say. it's possible that it's leaking though.

    the combustion chamber needs to be air tight, the vacuum is what allows it to burn and pull exhaust out and up. it's kinda like a car, it creates/requires vacuum to complete the combustion process and suck the exhaust out.

    best place to get parts is your dealer. or order it online, but it will take a while.
  18. robert65

    robert65 Member

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  19. Heat1

    Heat1 New Member

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    Oct 10, 2012
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    yea my thing is i start replacing parts and its the same error i have tried just about everything i think i will have to call the repairman and pay the 169 service fee to find out exactly what is wrong with it. Because its getting cold and the war dept. likes her heat!

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