Wood delivery - heavy hardwood vs light hardwood???

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

ClydesdaleBurner

Member
Hearth Supporter
Dec 5, 2007
145
South Coast, MA
Hi I was wondering if someone could answer this question: I received two cords green wood yesterday and the wood was all hardwood per seller. There appears to be two species of wood. One is very heavy and has a reddish grain, I'm guessing this is red oak. The other species is much light in color and weight. The grain is very white and its maybe half as heavy as the oak. What could this be? Also am I losing BTUs with this light stuff vs. the oak??? I thought hardwoods were all fairly heavy...

Thanks
 
Can you post any pics?
 
Hardwood typically refers to deciduous trees (those having leaves) where as softwood would refer to conifers (those with needles). All hardwoods were not created equal. There is great variance between the different species in terms of BTUs. Red and white oak are both excellent firewood, but take much longer to season. Basswood (which may be what the other species you have), popple, cottonwood are much lighter and has much less BTU per cord. Those will typically season much quicker. The best thing to do is stack them separate. Use the 'light' wood for the shoulder seasons and when you are around to tend the stove. Use the 'heavy' wood for overnight burns or daytime burns when you are not around. Of course, make sure it is all properly seasoned first.
 
the_dude said:
Hardwood typically refers to deciduous trees (those having leaves) where as softwood would refer to conifers (those with needles). All hardwoods were not created equal. There is great variance between the different species in terms of BTUs. Red and white oak are both excellent firewood, but take much longer to season. Basswood (which may be what the other species you have), popple, cottonwood are much lighter and has much less BTU per cord. Those will typically season much quicker. The best thing to do is stack them separate. Use the 'light' wood for the shoulder seasons and when you are around to tend the stove. Use the 'heavy' wood for overnight burns or daytime burns when you are not around. Of course, make sure it is all properly seasoned first.
deciduous trees are hard and soft as well, for example soft(silver) and hard(sugar) maple
 
The density of the wood tells you how much energy it will give you. (tht's a period)

Realize that some woods have a lot higher % water weight when green, however, so the density comparison should be done with dry wood.
 
Hey Dude,

Let me explain something to you. Um, I am not Mr. Lebowski. You're Mr. Lebowski. I'm the Dude. So that's what you call me. You know, that or his Dudeness, or, Duder, or El Duderino if you're not into the whole brevity thing.

Maude Lebowski: What do you do for recreation?
The Dude: Oh, the usual. I bowl. Drive around. The occasional acid flashback

Great stuff...

Anyway thanks for the idea of stacking them seperately. I will definitely do that so I can pick the lighter wood first as it will be seasoned first and also just for general use, like you said overnight burns = big oak pieces, shoulder season = this lighter stuff.

One more for all the Lebowski fans!

Walter Sobchak: Is this your homework, Larry? Is this your homework, Larry?
The Dude: Look, man...
Walter Sobchak: Dude, please? Is this your homework, Larry?
The Dude: Just ask him about the car.
Walter Sobchak: Is this yours, Larry? Is this your homework, Larry?
The Dude: Is that your car out front?
Walter Sobchak: Is this your homework, Larry?
The Dude: We know it's his f'ing homework! Where's the f'ing money, you little brat?
Walter Sobchak: Look, Larry. Have you ever heard of Vietnam?
The Dude: Oh, for Christ's sake, Walter...
Walter Sobchak: You're entering a world of pain, son. We know that this is your homework. We know that you stole a car.
The Dude: And the f'ing money.
Walter Sobchak: And the f'ing money. And, we know that this is your homework.
The Dude: We're going to cut your dick off, Larry.
Walter Sobchak: You're killing your father, Larry!
 
I have found some cases where weight isnt everything.

Lets compare sugar maple to yellow birch.

maple is 29 mil btu/cord

yello birch is 26 mil/cord


BUT, the birch is ALOT lighter than the maple.
 
Adios Pantalones said:
Not sure where you got your numbers- I got Sugar maple at 24 MBTU and 44.2 lb/cu ft, yellow birch at 23.6 MBTU and 43.4 lb/cu ft.

29 MBTU is higher than even black locust on the chart I looked at. Of course there's variability in trees even within species.

http://www.daviddarling.info/encyclopedia/W/AE_wood_heat_value_BTU.html

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/heating_value_wood
You got that right i have 56 in silver maple trunk that burns as good as some hickory that i had.One of the hardest to split tree ive ever seen.(very curly)
 
ClydesdaleBurner said:
Hi I was wondering if someone could answer this question: I received two cords green wood yesterday and the wood was all hardwood per seller. There appears to be two species of wood. One is very heavy and has a reddish grain, I'm guessing this is red oak. The other species is much light in color and weight. The grain is very white and its maybe half as heavy as the oak. What could this be? Also am I losing BTUs with this light stuff vs. the oak??? I thought hardwoods were all fairly heavy...

Thanks

Yes. As a rule heavier = more BTUs - assuming moisture content is the same.
 
Keep in mind that practically ALL bio mass, has close to the same BTU pound. A pound of pine as much as a pound of shag bark hickory. HOWEVER, a pound of pine has a much greated size than a pound of good old shag bark
 
Red oak has a VERY high moisture content when it is 'green' That makes it much heavier to start with than say ash. Ash is a very good firewood but has a much lower moisture content when green thus making lighter than the oak to begin with. So..... I would split it all and compare the weight in about year, THEN you can make a valuable comparison in weight vs. btu.
 
countrybois said:
Red oak has a VERY high moisture content when it is 'green' That makes it much heavier to start with than say ash. Ash is a very good firewood but has a much lower moisture content when green thus making lighter than the oak to begin with. So..... I would split it all and compare the weight in about year, THEN you can make a valuable comparison in weight vs. btu.

Well said.

The Dude Abides.
 
smokinj said:
the_dude said:
Hardwood typically refers to deciduous trees (those having leaves) where as softwood would refer to conifers (those with needles). All hardwoods were not created equal. There is great variance between the different species in terms of BTUs. Red and white oak are both excellent firewood, but take much longer to season. Basswood (which may be what the other species you have), popple, cottonwood are much lighter and has much less BTU per cord. Those will typically season much quicker. The best thing to do is stack them separate. Use the 'light' wood for the shoulder seasons and when you are around to tend the stove. Use the 'heavy' wood for overnight burns or daytime burns when you are not around. Of course, make sure it is all properly seasoned first.
deciduous trees are hard and soft as well, for example soft(silver) and hard(sugar) maple

I am well aware of the fact that there are soft maples. The point I was trying to make was that most people are going to call a maple, regardless of species, a hardwood because it is a deciduous tree.

I should have stated it as simply as AP, as density is what matters.

The Dude abides indead.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.