Wood Drying Opinions

[fdegree]

This is a follow-up to a thread I posted back in January...Will This Wood Dry In Time

Well, today I dug down to the center of the pile in the left bay and removed 3 splits. I then split those splits at least once more to test the moisture content inside of them.

The moisture content ranged mostly around 22% - 27%. This wood is white oak, and it was freshly split and stacked 6 months ago (January)

I have attached 2 photos to show the size of the splits before and after I split them further...one is of the splits after I removed them from the center of the pile...the other is after splitting those splits.

My question is...based upon this analysis, will the wood dry enough for burning in a Blaze King by November?

It seemed most responses to my original thread were skeptical about the wood drying that quickly. But, since the center of pile seems to be so close to that magical 20% level, I'm wondering if this is a realistic expectation.


Thanks

 

[smokinj]

How big of a pile?

 

[Adios Pantalones]

The prime drying months are here. The wood will be acceptable, I'd guess. White oak always seems dryer than red when cut, and seems to dry a bit quicker as well- even though it's more dense dry.

 

[astrodon]

That does seem unusually dry for the amount of seasoning you describe. Just out of curiosity, how far are you jamming the probes of the moisture meter into the fresh splits? If the probes are not making good penetration, then this could be giving you lower than actual readings, especially in hard wood like oak. If you are confident that you are measuring the MC accurately, I would not have any problem burning that wood this winter.

 

[fdegree]

How big of a pile?

If you haven't checked it our yet...the shed and stacks can be seen if you go to the link in my original post...though the picture in that thread seems a bit deceiving as to the actual size of the stacks.

There are 3 full cords in each of the 2 bays. Each bay measures 8’ wide by 12’ deep and the stacks are about 6’ tall. So, to answer your question...each bay has a stack inside of it that is 8 x 8 x 6...with enough room in front of the stacks for another cord, at least.

 

[fdegree]

how far are you jamming the probes of the moisture meter into the fresh splits?

The probes on the meter are 1/4" long and I am shoving them in with some force. I would estimate they are penetrating about 1/2 of their length...so about 1/8" of penetration.

 

[smokinj]

How big of a pile?

If you haven't checked it our yet...the shed and stacks can be seen if you go to the link in my original post...though the picture in that thread seems a bit deceiving as to the actual size of the stacks.

There are 3 full cords in each of the 2 bays. Each bay measures 8’ wide by 12’ deep and the stacks are about 6’ tall. So, to answer your question...each bay has a stack inside of it that is 8 x 8 x 6...with enough room in front of the stacks for another cord, at least.

Thats a great set up looks like you are the best to answer your own question.....I was doing 10 cord piles and thats does not work as well as I had hoped!

 

[Nonprophet]

Are you sure that's White Oak? It doesn't look anything like the White Oak we get out here in the West..........


NP

 

[fdegree]

Are you sure that's White Oak? It doesn't look anything like the White Oak we get out here in the West

I must admit that I am clueless about wood types. Was told by the supplier that it is oak...I'm assuming it is white oak

 

[rdust]

So much of this depends on climate and local conditions. I have some silver maple that has been split/stacked since last may and it was still in the 30% + range last burning season. I pulled a piece from the middle of a stack yesterday and it was still 27% in the middle after a year. It should be pretty good by the time fall hits but I'm surprised at the time required for this wood. Most people thought it would be good after 6 months.

Are you sure that's White Oak? It doesn't look anything like the White Oak we get out here in the West..........


NP

x2

Can you post some close ups of the end grain, split surface and bark?

 

[oldspark]

So much of this depends on climate and local conditions. I have some silver maple that has been split/stacked since last may and it was still in the 30% + range last burning season. I pulled a piece from the middle of a stack yesterday and it was still 27% in the middle after a year. It should be pretty good by the time fall hits but I'm surprised at the time required for this wood. Most people thought it would be good after 6 months.

Are you sure that's White Oak? It doesn't look anything like the White Oak we get out here in the West..........


NP

x2

Can you post some close ups of the end grain, split surface and bark?

You have some silver maple over a year old and it is at 27%, how are you stacking it?

 

[fdegree]

Can you post some close ups of the end grain, split surface and bark?

Hope this is good enough...if not let me know and I'll try to do better

 

[fdegree]

Can you post some close ups of the end grain, split surface and bark?

Picture files were too large to place all of them in one post...so here is another post with a couple of more

 

[woodsmaster]

The top right looks like oak to me, but there are many cross breeds of oak so its hard to say if its a true "white oak".

 

[Cluttermagnet]

Every shot that shows bark looks like White Oak to me.

 

[smokinj]

Looks like that tree has been dead a long time even to the point of staring to get punky.

 

[fdegree]

Looks like that tree has been dead a long time even to the point of staring to get punky.

This raises a question for me...being incredibly new to all of this:

I've heard the term a few times, but never asked the question...What is punky wood?

 

[golfandwoodnut]

yep, looks like white oak to me. As smokin jay says it looks like it might have been a dead tree, for awhile, and that may be helping the drying process. The best clue will be how it burns. It is looking like you are going to be OK. Sometimes that last bit to get it down to 20 percent takes the longest. But the real test is how it burns, or sizzles (if there is some water left).

 

[rdust]

You have some silver maple over a year old and it is at 27%, how are you stacking it?

Stacked on pallets in rows of two with a gap between rows. The stack I pulled out of is in good sun/wind.

Here is two cords not all silver maple.

This is the stack I just checked the other day. This is the picture from when it was stacked last year, it's much more seasoned looking now.

Sorry for the hijack fdegree!

 

[rdust]

Hope this is good enough...if not let me know and I'll try to do better

As others have said that's oak! Sounds like it's doing good, it should burn pretty good by the time you need it.

 

[Cluttermagnet]

Looks like that tree has been dead a long time even to the point of staring to get punky.

This raises a question for me...being incredibly new to all of this:

I've heard the term a few times, but never asked the question...What is punky wood?

Soft, spongy, lightweight, rotten, light colored wood. It usually starts on the outside of a round, eventually moves inward, can consume the entire round. Most likely to form where a round is contacting wet earth. Soaks up water like a doggone sponge. If bone dry, burns fine, but has little remaining BTU's (heat energy).

I often trim it off with a hatchet. A few others do too, most forum members wouldn't bother. It burns lousy when wet, however. If punky wood stored outside keeps getting wet, seems like it never does season right.

 

[fdegree]

Thanks for the help everyone.

Sounds like I may be OK burning this wood when winter rolls around...that's good news...my Blaze King should here next week

Maybe this fast drying it is due to the open field that is behind my woodshed...most of the time we have constant wind...occasionally we have a calm day, but most of the time there is at least a breeze blowing.

 

[SolarAndWood]

You will get great burn times out of the BK with softwoods which I assume are a lot easier to get your hands on than oak. I load the firebox up with pine, spruce or one of the low density hardwoods and save the good stuff for when I need it.

 

[fdegree]

You will get great burn times out of the BK with softwoods which I assume are a lot easier to get your hands on than oak. I load the firebox up with pine, spruce or one of the low density hardwoods and save the good stuff for when I need it.

Keep in mind, I am very new to all of this...though I have been learning a lot from everyone at this forum for the past year or so. But, I have always heard that the high sap content of pine will create creosote even if it is dry. Yet, I continue to hear about folks burning pine in their new EPA wood stove.

So, is the "problem" of high sap content really a problem?

 

[SolarAndWood]

Complete BS. I ran 2 cord of pine and spruce through the stove this winter and have nothing in the stack. I found the wood last spring and split it in June. I only burn the good stuff when its cold and windy. The rest of the time, I burn what most consider junk.