Wood Insert into a prefab (Heatilator) FP

[Marsh]

I have been reading the excellent communication with he seasoned experts and have enjoyed it. I am researching wood inserts to install into a metal prefab fireplace (Heatilator). FP is located on the lower level of a tri-level 2800 SF home. (photo attached) Three questings:
_ Does my existing fireplace require a zero clearance type insert?
_ I have four vent locations (with two fans) in my brick. Can these be covered by the new insert or do I need to keep the vents open. If I keep the vents open, will theri be enough heat generated for them to be useful?
_ I am considering pulling heat from my lower level and venting/piping it directly into my furnace duct. Duct will be located at a high point on a wall into my furnace room. I will be attaching a small blower, activated by a thermostat, in the duct to activate once the temp in the FP room reaches say 90 deg. Wondering if anyone has any experience with a duct damper that will open and close automatically and one that seals relatively tight when the air conditioning is in use.

 

[otrip]

I had a similar if not the the same setup.
Look up my first post here for details.
A new insert will not cover the vents. I just stuffed mine with insulation as the dealer/installer suggested.

 

[begreen]

I believe the Heatilator vents must remain unblocked.

Due to duct losses, using a forced air system to distribute heat is often not very successful. The return duct must be at least 10 feet away from the stove. And piping into the ductwork with a blower will likely be insufficient to move enough air.

See this thread on the same setup:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/29684/#312745

 

[Marsh]

OTRIP - Thanks for the response. How long have you had the Regency I2400 in service and is it meeting yolur expectations? I too am considering this one of my top three choices. Looking at a pacific Energy and Quadra. How loud is the fan in relation tothe fax on your old Heatilator?

BEGREEN- Thanks for the reference. The duct would be about 12 ft from the FP. I believe another important factor is how much heat will my new insert crank-out that could be moved to other parts of the house.

By the way this forum is great. I have been reading may posts for the past few weeks from the outside looking in.

 

[kd460]

Don't want to rain on your parade, but, I have a heatilator prefab fireplace and wanted the regency and the pacific energy. Guess what, would not fit. Impossible installation. The flue in the insert would not line up with the flue on the fireplace, and/or the sizes of the units would not fit the opening or not have enough room to make the liner to flue connections.

So, I ended up with the Kodiak 1700. Not my first choice, but, it does the same job as the others that I wanted, and a little larger of an insert. Just thought I would put my 2 cents in before you go too far with a unit that won't fit your insert.

Also make sure what ever insert you go with, it is approved to be installed in a zero clearance fireplace. Good luck in your search. KD

 

[otrip]

I believe the Heatilator vents must remain unblocked.

Due to duct losses, using a forced air system to distribute heat is often not very successful. The return duct must be at least 10 feet away from the stove. And piping into the ductwork with a blower will likely be insufficient to move enough air.

See this thread on the same setup:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/29684/#312745

The Heatilator vents work on a similar concept as any insert. Sucks in cold air and throws out warm air. Unfortunatly this was not a very effective design compared to the inserts of today. After installing the insert the old Heatilator vents are rendered useless, basicly just a couple holes in the wall. As a new insert will not and sould not heat the old firebox and the voids/vents behind it. If it does then you have some serious problems. They can be completely blocked and even bricked in but usually just left alone or blocked with some insulation as your never going to get it to perfectly match up to the existing old brick work. If you do decide to eventually remodel and go with another brick, tile to change the look everything can be covered right up.

 

[otrip]

OTRIP - Thanks for the response. How long have you had the Regency I2400 in service and is it meeting yolur expectations? I too am considering this one of my top three choices. Looking at a pacific Energy and Quadra. How loud is the fan in relation tothe fax on your old Heatilator?

BEGREEN- Thanks for the reference. The duct would be about 12 ft from the FP. I believe another important factor is how much heat will my new insert crank-out that could be moved to other parts of the house.

By the way this forum is great. I have been reading may posts for the past few weeks from the outside looking in.

Installed in OCT of this year (08). The insert is far exceeding my expectations. I gave it a good test by turning the furnace completely off when it was 25f outside, and it kept the upstairs of my hillside ranch (insert in basement) reading 62f for many hrs burning just maple & popular. I'm still awaiting an actual reading gas bill so I can figure my savings but I will say the furnace used to kick on quite a few times at night now only once or twice for a much shorter period.
I am planning on remodeling my basement this winter, adding proper insulation and getting rid of the original paneling as well as insulating the back wall foundation wall that is currently un-insulated.
My basement tile covered slab floor is much warmer to where I can bear walking around in bare feet and is actually warm where it is carpeted.


The fan on low could be compared to a small fan you would use in the summer or slightly louder than my new furnace blower. On high to a box fan on high. Nothing too horrible but for some who like dead silence might be uncomfortable.
Thanksgiving was interesting as when I had the fan on high everyone was yapping away, the times when it got too hot and I turned it on low everyone stopped talking and there was an awkward silence in the room.


Best thing I can suggest is go into your dealer and play around with one. Any decent dealer should have them on display and allow you to test out the blower.

Using an insert in conjunction with the furnace blower is tricky and iffy at best. A furnace blower is designed to move massive amounts of hot (or cold) air in a short time period as to where an insert is designed to put out a smaller amount of heat over a long time period. Running the furnace blower will circulate the air in the house "too much" and usually cause an uncomfortable draft making it feel much colder. Plus by creating the additional circulation the warmer air will find its way and be forced outside easier unless your house is virtually air tight. Same concept as why most ceiling fans have a reverse switch, as well as the "wind-chill" factor just on a much smaller scale. Picture getting into your car when it's cold and the heater is just starting to warm up. The air blowing on your face is a horrible feeling and we usually leave it down until the car warms up and it really gets cranking.

 

[otrip]

Don't want to rain on your parade, but, I have a heatilator prefab fireplace and wanted the regency and the pacific energy. Guess what, would not fit. Impossible installation. The flue in the insert would not line up with the flue on the fireplace, and/or the sizes of the units would not fit the opening or not have enough room to make the liner to flue connections.

So, I ended up with the Kodiak 1700. Not my first choice, but, it does the same job as the others that I wanted, and a little larger of an insert. Just thought I would put my 2 cents in before you go too far with a unit that won't fit your insert.

Also make sure what ever insert you go with, it is approved to be installed in a zero clearance fireplace. Good luck in your search. KD

Size only matters if your insert is to big to fit into the hole and doesn't meet required specifications.
They make offset and flexible connectors just for that reason. The most common problem is the existing damper opening is too small wich can easily be fixed by cutting a hole with a sawzall. Once you go with an insert your never going to want to go back to a "normal" fireplace. With a flex liner all the connections could be made at the top of the existing chimney, dropped down and pulled through the old damper opening, insert would then be inserted and the final connection can usually be made from inside the insert. If that's not possible then a smaller insert with a oversize / larger surround would be your best bet.
Any qualified dealer/installer will know what will and wont work in your situation. If your still unsure have them stop by and check it out before you make the purchase.

 

[kd460]

Don't want to rain on your parade, but, I have a heatilator prefab fireplace and wanted the regency and the pacific energy. Guess what, would not fit. Impossible installation. The flue in the insert would not line up with the flue on the fireplace, and/or the sizes of the units would not fit the opening or not have enough room to make the liner to flue connections.

So, I ended up with the Kodiak 1700. Not my first choice, but, it does the same job as the others that I wanted, and a little larger of an insert. Just thought I would put my 2 cents in before you go too far with a unit that won't fit your insert.

Also make sure what ever insert you go with, it is approved to be installed in a zero clearance fireplace. Good luck in your search. KD

Size only matters if your insert is to big to fit into the hole and doesn't meet required specifications.
They make offset and flexible connectors just for that reason. The most common problem is the existing damper opening is too small wich can easily be fixed by cutting a hole with a sawzall. Once you go with an insert your never going to want to go back to a "normal" fireplace. With a flex liner all the connections could be made at the top of the existing chimney, dropped down and pulled through the old damper opening, insert would then be inserted and the final connection can usually be made from inside the insert. If that's not possible then a smaller insert with a oversize / larger surround would be your best bet.


Any qualified dealer/installer will know what will and wont work in your situation. If your still unsure have them stop by and check it out before you make the purchase.

Good luck finding an insert that will fit and have enough clearance for an offset collar and or adapter. I don't think "making it fit" with a sawzall is the answer either. But go for it. I would like to know how it works out. KD