Does small rounds from tree tops cleanup etc., average size of 4 inches (cut 18" long) seem to dry as good as split wood, or can you tell the difference ?
Thanks.
Robbie
Thanks.
Robbie
Yeah, good point Rhon. Seems I'll acquire peices less than 4" that are punky inside. I still burn them as long as their dry.Rhonemas said:The reason is bark is practically waterproof. The only places rounds can dry is through the ends, and it takes so long because of such little surface area I've found usually the wood rots before it dries when unsplit. 4" is borderline for me though, anything about the size of my wrists I don't split.
It's also the reason why when stacking you want to have your air spaces & tunnels have as much of the fibers of the wood exposed. A tunnel of all bark in your pile is useless, whereas a tunnel with all sides being the fibers will dry the wood very well.
Warren said:Yeah, good point Rhon. Seems I'll acquire peices less than 4" that are punky inside. I still burn them as long as their dry.Rhonemas said:The reason is bark is practically waterproof. The only places rounds can dry is through the ends, and it takes so long because of such little surface area I've found usually the wood rots before it dries when unsplit. 4" is borderline for me though, anything about the size of my wrists I don't split.
It's also the reason why when stacking you want to have your air spaces & tunnels have as much of the fibers of the wood exposed. A tunnel of all bark in your pile is useless, whereas a tunnel with all sides being the fibers will dry the wood very well.
The one good thing about Elm...The bark falls off the tree within a year of the tree dying, so the wood is almost ready to burn while the tree is still standing. Still takes a few months to dry, and I'm guessing longer to be optimal. I'll see this year after it's all been stacked and covered the whole summer.
Stacking technique is always a favorite topic around here, and Rhonemas's point is a good one for folks new to stacking. If the wood is stacked with each layer set 90 degrees to the previous, the wood will dry better, and the stack will be quite stable without the need for support.
Vintage 181 said:Have read on a couple government sites and others that roughly 80 percent of moisture exits through the ends of the wood not the sides..
Rhonemas said:Vintage 181 said:Have read on a couple government sites and others that roughly 80 percent of moisture exits through the ends of the wood not the sides..
Hmm... that doesn't make sense. We wouldn't split & stack wood if only improves drying 20%. The rounds I deal with aren't ever close to burning sitting around for a year, even two but split & stacked they're ready in 6-7 months.
burntime said:Don't forget instruction manuals and last notice magazine subscription renewal notices
Vintage 181 said:This is from the US forest service lab.
Generally, the way this drying is accomplished is by "seasoning" it. Firewood is cut to length and then seasoned (dried) in a stack, with air being able to get to it, for at least 9 months before burning. The natural 60%-70% moisture content must be reduced to about 20% to burn well. The wood cells don't lose much moisture through the bark; the moisture is most effectively removed through the cut cells at the ends of each piece.
Cannot remember where the site that gave the actual 80 percent figure on the ends..will poke around later.. a key component is length of the round and if they are near or close to the ground..all our wood is on pallets..the top is always dryer..rain splash etc
Here is the link to the forest service site, there is other goood info..
http://mb-soft.com/juca/print/firewood.html
We use essential cookies to make this site work, and optional cookies to enhance your experience.