Post in 'The Gear' started by Rickb, Feb 28, 2014.
Anyone know what 1 of thee in good shape is worth? Looking at putting a offer on one of these.
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If in good shape, and I were buying, I'd be okay with about $150 - in nice shape. Cheers!
He is wanting $300. I sent him a email offering $200 it has an extra bar and chain. And he sent me a nasty email back explaining what $300 firm means. lol
At least around my area, you can do better. I got an 028 AV that needed a new chain for $150. It was well maintained and runs great.
$200 is a fair offer. Keep looking. Have you tried craigslist?
Growing up we had Maccullough, homelite, etc. Friend of mine talked me into buying a Stihl 4 years ago and I will not own any other brand. Between volunteer work, storm clean up, and cutting wood for me and my parents, my MS290 has a ton of hours each year. Clean the air filter once a year and keep a sharp chain on it, it will never let you down.
Best of luck.
This was on craigslist. I have a 18" craftsman that works great on anything smaller then 14" but like today we were cutting up 18-22" trunks and my little saw just doesnt have enough ass or chain. Lookign for something to chew up larger diameter logs.
I was in that same boat.....bought a Stihl MS290. It has an 18" bar, and will cut bigger than that (with a second pass on the back). Stihl's are great machines. There are others, but there are many of them out there for sale.
Be patient. There are folks who think their 20 year old saw is worth 80% of new. Keep looking and you will find one. I used to have a smaller saw with an 18" bar, but it would not cut through an 18" tree.
Word of advice. Get a saw with a thicker bar that will take a professional chain (with out all of the kickback measures). You are looking for an 0.063 gauge bar (standard on all of the Stihls). Many other brands that market to professionals use these too. You can get a much more aggressive chain for these saws. You will be happy, and NEVER own a 0.050 gauge chain again.
300 is a crazy price for that saw - they are a dime a dozen used saw around here- see them all the time. One on CL here that looks pretty decent for $150. Hold off and deals will come - and don't just hold off for an 028 - nothing wrong with them, but they aren't a saw to dream about. Cheers!
And an 028 isn't a much bigger saw. If you're looking for a saw that will be better for 24" diameter wood, you should be able to find a good medium sized saw (60-70cc) in the $300 range.
I also want to watch the weight. Don't want something too heavy. Trying to lowball a MS310 right now. Looks like that would be good with a 20" bar and I will throw a 16" bar on my craftsman. Use the craftsman for limbs and smaller stuff then the 310 on the large limbs and trunks.
I also see a MS290... I assume that is going to be similar to the 028?
I paid $390 for my brand new 290 last year. $300 is way to much for a used one.
The MS310 is a clamshell saw.Try to wait for a MS360/1/2,or 036.If you want a little lighter look for the 026 or MS260/1/2. The Ms310 is the same saw as MS290
What does clamshell saw mean?
MS 290 is a newer version of the 029. It is made to run 18 - 20" bar. Mine has an 18" bar and has plenty of power. A great saw.
Clamshell refers to the way the motor is built.On the clamshell the cylinder and 1/2 the crankcase is one piece.Usually a homeowner grade saw.The Professional saws have a removable cylinder,and a crankcase that is split to remove the crank.All the husky's,poulans in Walmart/Lowes are clamshell saws.Cheap construction,throwaway saws for the most part.
If you are thinking about the MS290,go for the MS310,same saw more power
If they are the same price I agree.
For the average wood cutter (5 cord/yr) the 290 is a fine saw. There are people around me who have Stihl 041 magnums with 18" bars on them. Yes, it has more power than a MS290, but do you need it?
Upgrading to a professional type saw with a 63 gauge chain, he will love any of them after running that basic saw.
I was actually very impressed the craftsman did as well as it did. As long as the chain was sharp it cut very well for a saw as old and abused as it was. Just didnt do well on the big stuff.
So it looks like my best bet would be the ms360/036 or the MS260/026 because both of these are rebuild able?
EDIT: Another question... Is the MS361 just a newer MS360?
They are all rebuild able,you will get more power with less weight with the 026 MS260.And a slight increase in weight with the 036 MS360,but another increase in power.
The 361 came after the 360 and now there is the 362.Same as the 260 series.
The best increase in power on a saw is a sharp chain.
Just a quick note here. Running .050 or .058 gauge chain doesn't make a saw any less professional. The teeth are still the same thickness, only the width of the driver is thicker.
For instance, I have an 026 that is .063, but my 038 is no less professional, and it came from the shop with a .050 chain.
My neighbor has a 360. Compared to my saw, it sounds like a beast when he has it wide open. I can out cut him 3 to 1 with my 290 because he can't sharpen a chain to save his life.
I agree. 058 3/8 chain has been used professionally for years. 058 is standard equipment on larger husky pro saws (at least where I live anyway).
I think there is some confusion. Stihl uses "green" and "yellow" to identify casual use and professional chain and bars. Green "safety" chain means chain that has had some form of "anti kickback" built into the design, whereas the yellow or "pro" chain has traditional cutters with no anti-kickback features. The yellow stuff will always cut better.
If you have a .050 gauge bar, simply replace it with .050 yellow "pro" chain and you will get the same results. No need to upgrade to the .063 bar unless you want to.
So.... Was BSing with a guy from work and he happens to have his old saw sitting around collecting dust! It's an older 028 with low compression. I told him sure. I figure I can pull it apart and fix whatever is wrong and if nothing else throw a 16" bar and chain on it and use it to replace my craftsman. Looks like if it needs an whole new upper end its around $150. Unless someone has a good place for cheap parts? I will continue to look for a decently priced ms360/036 or MS260/026.
First time playing with a saw but I figure if I can rebuild a 302, 305, or 350 a small 2 stroke shouldn't be too bad.
If it hasn't scored the piston you should be alright with a new set of rings.The cylinder has to be in real rough shape before they wouln't clean up.If you want to go aftermarket look for Caber rings,Meteor pistons.
For good service and prices on aftermarket parts PM me and i'll give you the name of a place i use.
An 028 will serve you just fine. As Thomas mentioned, its pretty easy to fix most things on that saw. When you get it, pull the muffler off to look for scoring. It the piston is gnarly, dont take it apart further until you can figure out why. (Its usually an air leak, sawdust ingestion, straight gas, or carbon scoring) He is also right that a meteor piston and caber rings is a good aftermarket solution.
Be aware there are three different diameters of piston for that saw, so you will need to measure carefully before you order any parts.
Before you go too far, pick up a long handled T-27 driver. That should take care of the majority of what you will need, and you cant pull the cylinder without one.
Thanks for the info. I assume when you say air leak you mean at the carburetor?
I mean a torn intake boot, impulse line, or bad seal. Basically anything that will have the engine run lean by sucking air. Then they run hot, and that causes a lean seize.
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