Would like some advice on how to ID a Stihl

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Hello again. I hope my posts are not becoming a bother. I am solo w/o anyone to coach me. 2 cycle is new to me. AC, no worries. You got me to take the next step which was to dump the bar oil and see what the heck was going on in there. Some basic use of eyeballs and brain yielded a positive result. You prodded me onward! Much appreciated. I get the concept of wanting it a little rich. Fuel acts as a cooling agent and a lean, hot piston is not good for a long life. I just wish I could get back to having it run for more than 5 seconds.

Currently I am trying to figure out my next step. When I first got the saw I could get it started with some Gumout and (ether....which I now understand is a no no)....anyway, I got it to run with fresh gas and some placebo cleaner. Reved well, would hesitate when you jump the throttle but then rev great. Would start and run, but no power when put to wood. Backed off H and power issue was solved....then bar oil issue.

Now, after sitting for 12 hours it will start on say 3rd pull, run, responsive to a few blips of throttle and then die and not restart after 5 to 10 seconds of running. Sounds like basic starvation caused by the fuel vent line being clogged. But, the fact that it ran until I shut it off just a day earlier, after tuning the carb, makes me think I have a different issue. The air vent is not going to clog up like that IMO but what do I know. Did I tune the carb in such a way that once started and warm it runs....but now, cold, it won't start due to improper adjustment? Coil...from my limited experience, if working once, likely still working as failure mode is zero function or 100% function. In short, it seems like a fuel issue to me, not electrical.

What stumps me is that it was running continuously prior to the bar fix and my effort to "tune" the saw. Me thinks I have caused the problem. Or, am I still fooling with a saw that already proved to have a "stuck" bar oil check valve from non use and a saw that likely sat with stale fuel. All this may point to a carb rebuild. So, would AC say; "..PULL THE CARB and go through it with carb cleaner and replace......stop over thinking it...".

Thoughts? Wisdom?

Thanks!
 
I would start with Air filter clean and fuel filter new?
 
You mean there should be a fuel filter on the end of the hose in the tank? Nada on mine.

Today's effort. Went back to ground zero. Gently seat L and back out one full turn. Gently seat H and back out 1.25 turns. It started. I had the L out almost 4 turns after tuning it by ear. But, it now hesitates if not stalls when I jump the throttle. So, I back out L. Got it running great. Ran through two tanks....(does not hold much mix)....but when tuned to run....so you can jump the gas....it won't start. I cut up some fallen sugar maple. I don't think there was one piece longer than 12" that did not have a knot, branch, or something. Messy stuff.

On a whole, the little saw did great. I just can't seem to find the sweet spot of being easy to start and run strong once started. Guess I am learning. At this point I leave it so it will start but then gently give it gas until H kicks in and then we're making chips. Still a small amount of missing WOT no load. With load, but it runs solid when in the wood. I hope I am not in the lean zone. Going by another service place tomorrow, will pick up air and fuel filter. Right now, the solution is tune it after you get it running. Not right, but it is where I am.

Thanks!
 
Keep smiling, you're gaining on the saw & experience both. Definitely a fuel issue by the sounds of it. The L screw shouldn't need to be out past about 1.25 turns @ most. My guess is that w/o the fuel filter, the carb has a little dirt in it. I'd be inclined to try a little Sea Foam in the fuel for a couple of tanks after installing the new filters. Does wonders sometimes. It sounds like the H side tuning is right on. You might try a little more fuel on the H & a little less on L to find the sweet spot, don't be afraid to screw with the tuning, you won't hurt it unless you get too lean. It just takes patience & practice. I often carry a pocket screwdriver right to the tree with me, & re tune my saws for temp & humidity when cutting. It keeps my ears tuned to my saws so I know what's going on with them. Be observant, patient, & diligent. You can learn to tune a saw as accurately by ear as you can with a tach.

You've done very well so far, keep at it, & you'll fall in love with your little $ 10.00 investment. A C
 
If the saws still runs with the L screw 4 turn out, then you definitely have something restricting the L fuel passages in the carb. With no filter on the pickup line then dirt is a likely answer but so is varnish/gum from the stale gas. The repair is the same either way. I'd pick up a diaphram/gasket kit for the carb and soak/spray it clean.
 
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100% throttle held, backed off until no skips so H is not too rich

Actually, you want a little "skip" @ wot throttle and no load, we call that 4 stroking, it should then smooth out under load. This is the best tune by ear you can get for power & longevity. If it runs smooth & fast it's a bit lean & you risk piston damage under load. A C

BTW, nice job on fixing the oiler, & my apologies for leading you astray on the filter. I was working on a newer saw in my head.

What he said... +1.

You want some 4-stroke/burple WOT w/o a load, or its apt to be too lean. Err on the rich side and it will last a lot longer.
 
You mean there should be a fuel filter on the end of the hose in the tank? Nada on mine.

Today's effort. Went back to ground zero. Gently seat L and back out one full turn. Gently seat H and back out 1.25 turns. It started. I had the L out almost 4 turns after tuning it by ear. But, it now hesitates if not stalls when I jump the throttle. So, I back out L. Got it running great. Ran through two tanks....(does not hold much mix)....but when tuned to run....so you can jump the gas....it won't start. I cut up some fallen sugar maple. I don't think there was one piece longer than 12" that did not have a knot, branch, or something. Messy stuff.

On a whole, the little saw did great. I just can't seem to find the sweet spot of being easy to start and run strong once started. Guess I am learning. At this point I leave it so it will start but then gently give it gas until H kicks in and then we're making chips. Still a small amount of missing WOT no load. With load, but it runs solid when in the wood. I hope I am not in the lean zone. Going by another service place tomorrow, will pick up air and fuel filter. Right now, the solution is tune it after you get it running. Not right, but it is where I am.

Thanks!


lol GET ONE! Read up and listen to the sound wave as many times as it takes!


http://web.archive.org/web/20051018212959/www.madsens1.com/sawtune.htm
 
New air and fuel filter in hand, plus a few replacement screws. Things are looking up. I got there are 1:30 and although there were 4 guys, only one knew what to do, ironically, the youngest. Who would have thunk? He quickly got me my stuff and then ran off to lunch. Thus I got no chance to sort out if this is the 010 or 011. Everyone's got to eat. Nice that a small shop is that busy. Interestingly, stocked both Stihl and Husky. I look forward to putting them on and then tune again.

smokinj, great link on carb tuning. I have even been to Centralia a few times. You can hear the trees grow in the PNW. It is amazingly beautiful country!

Back to dinner prep!
 
... Things are looking up. I got there are 1:30 and although there were 4 guys, only one knew what to do, ironically, the youngest. Who would have thunk? He quickly got me my stuff and then ran off to lunch....

Yeah you never know about us young guys, might be the real go-getter of the bunch.
 
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