WWW.Kotly.com

[Nofossil]

For folks that have done this, if you wouldn't mind sharing:

- What was the approximate cost for shipping and import duties?

- How much of the logistics (transportation and import / export paperwork) did Kotly handle?

- Do they have US (110vac) models, or do you have to deal with voltage conversion here?

Thanks for any information....

 

[muncybob]

For folks that have done this, if you wouldn't mind sharing:

- What was the approximate cost for shipping and import duties?

- How much of the logistics (transportation and import / export paperwork) did Kotly handle?

- Do they have US (110vac) models, or do you have to deal with voltage conversion here?

Thanks for any information....

Yes, it would be interesting to hear from those that did this. From what I've read and been told the voltage/cycle difference is not a big deal. We can either use a transformer or wire up to 220 and let the motor run faster than it normally would or even replace the motor upon arrival? The rest of the electronics should be minimally effected by the voltage difference?

 

[overshot]

I can give you my info up to date.

Placed the order with www.Kotly.com on 8/26 for the ATMOS DC40GS cost = 2,745 Euros. This cost included a VAT tax which we don’t pay here in the states. So the actual cost was:
2,745/1.22 = 2,233 Euros
Shipping was 575 Euros

At the time the exchange rate was 1.44 USD to 1 Euro. That comes to:
3,215 USD for the ATMOS DC40GS
828 USD for shipping
125 for entry fee – I hired a brokerage firm in the states for this.
85 for bond - I hired a brokerage firm in the states for this.
This should come in duty free as a residential boiler.

Grand Total = 4,253 USD -- A far cry from the 7,000 USD for the local purchase.

Some things to keep in mind:
I must pick the cargo up at the port I had it shipped to and they load it for free.
You can greatly reduce the shipping cost by ordering more then one unit. I could of had two units shipped for 900 USD.
The units are 230V 50 Hz. only – I asked for a 120V/60Hz unit and they stated they don’t supply them.
I sent Euros because I got a better Exchange rate at my bank then Kotly was willing to give. Remember, they want Euros – it costs them money to exchange it and they pass it on to you.
The exchange rate on 10/31 was about 1.28 USD to 1 Euro

The process of importing something is very easy – don’t let it scare you.

I will keep you posted on the pick up or any additional costs.

 

[rich@ctgreenheat]

Atmos DC 40GS $5762.00 USD

Price includes:
ESBE thermic valve
110v to 230v transformer
BSPP to NPT couplings
5 year warranty
Touch it, feel it, love it, we will load it in the back of your Pick up the same day.

Also others gasifiers like:
Atmos DC 25S $4229.00 USD

www.ctgreenheatllc.com

 

[overshot]

Hey! I was waiting for that new CT “Dealer” to show up.
Last month you were selling those things for 7k – what’s the matter cant get rid of them?
You really shouldn’t call yourself a “dealer” because ATMOS has no dealers in the USA. Your website is a carbon copy of the products found on Kotly.com – I wonder where you buy from?
I can bring in containers of these things too – does that make me a “dealer”? Who is going to honor you warrantee if you go under?
Why do you need a transformer?

 

[rich@ctgreenheat]

Yes, we sell EKO and Atmos boilers.
We buy from various suppliers in the US and Europe.
Do you have a warranty?
A transformer makes it simple, plug boiler into transformer, plug transformer into wall.
We believe that we have the best prices on wood gasification boilers in the US.

 

[mtsjoel]

UPDATE: After a few minor glitches, I finally got my boilers a few weeks ago. My next question would be.... The boilers are set up 230v 50 htz, here in the states 60 htz is standard. What do i need to do to convert to 60 htz? or can I just run it as is?

 

[stee6043]

You'll fry it if you run it "as is". You'll need a transformer to convert 110V 60HZ to 230V 50HZ. When they are imported to dealers they come in 110V so you may want to call your exporter and see if they sell a kit or something...

 

[mtsjoel]

It is already wired for 230v 50hz. So do i need to get a transformer to get to 60hz?

 

[steam man]

A transformer won't get you to 50hz but you can get 230V. I don't know what electronic controls may be included but typically they are rated for 50-60 hz. The kicker will be with an AC motor designed for 50hz now running at 60hz. Unless it is also rated for 60hz its lifespan may end up shorter due to running faster. You may have to add some kind of speed control depending on the motor to adjust the output. Again, I don't know the details of the unit but If it were me I would probably wire it to 220V-240v 60hz directly, maybe find a replacement blower/motor with the same out output at 60hz and call it good.

Mike

 

[stee6043]

I may be wrong but I'm betting the controller already modulates the frequency to control the speed of the blower motor. My concern would be sending 60hz to the controller??

 

[Eric Johnson]

What kind of controller came with the boiler? If it's the older version, RK2001 that reads out in centigrade and maxes out at 80, you might be ahead to just buy the new controller, which reads out in F. and goes up to 195 degrees and is set up for 110/60. I think they're less than $200. You probably still need a transformer for the blowers, however. But the extra 20 degrees you get with the RK2001UA is worth the price of the upgrade, IMO.

I think I read somewhere that the 80C max on the old controller exists because of European codes, even though I suspect it's less efficient. The new one is aimed at the U.S. market and thus doesn't have that restriction. It makes a big difference.

 

[webbie]

Dear Friends,
The forums have a non-commercial policy.........
This is not the place to quote boilers, stoves, etc.

From the Forum Rules:
"No blatant commercialism"
"Where exactly is the line? Well, if someone needs a rare part or a manual, and you have it to sell….by all means, either answer the person online or PM/Email them. That is helping, not commercialism."

Selling stoves or boilers in the forum threads is on the far side of the line. If your company is interested in national exposure on some areas of Hearth.com, please contact Eric Johnson the forum moderators, by PM or email. Eric also runs a number of forestry industry trade shows and publishes a great mag...any or all which may help with commercial ads.

Thanks!

Craig

 

[jdboy9]

First post here and hello everyone.

I have been looking at outdoor boilers for a year now and it led me to the wood doctor which I thought the way its burning system was set up was the best out there, but the price was just to high. Then I find some info out on indoor gasifications boilers and well lets just say I have been busy trying to sort out what is what. It seems every time I narrow it down to something a better one comes up. I have narrowed it down to the Atmos 40GS or the eko/orlan 40 super and I was going to purchase it through kotly but I'm worried now after reading these posts.

I was just wondering how you guys that went through this would rate everything. How do you like your boilers? I wish I could get a definite answer as to which one to buy but they both seem to have their strong points.

Atmos claims to have high quality and a negative air box

Eko doesn't say it has high quality but it weighs more, has a cool control panel, and a chamber cleaner. I'm guessing it has a positive air box (by that I mean air blown in and not sucked through like the atmos)

I'm pulling my hair on this there is a lot of info out there but at the same time not enough if anyone can understand that.

 

[Eric Johnson]

Welcome to the Boiler Room. I've had the EKO 60 for going on 2 seasons and I'm very happy with it, especially the new controller, which reads out in F. and allows you to go up to 195, vs. 175 on the Euro models. Most EKO owners seem pretty happy with their boilers, as do the owners of other boilers using similar technology--EconoBurn, Biomass, Tarm, Wood Gun, and others. Not many Atmoses in this country yet, so you might have trouble finding reviews. And yes, the EKO pushes the air through the boiler rather than pulling it. Pros and cons to each.

 

[seabee570]

kotly...I am interested in possibly purchasing one,is anybody interested in sending 1 order to save/split shipping costs?pm me if interested
thanks

 

[jdboy9]

seabee yeah I will be towards summer

 

[jdboy9]

Oh good because I was going to ask them that or actually I did and they never got back to me on it. Same quote though of 800. When do you think you will be ordering? There is another guy on here that wants to go in too.

 

[Ugly]

I was looking into this as I think of replacing the wood furnaces (plural) at our store. While it's fairly inexpensive to convert the small voltages needed for something like a controller (think airport style adapters, I have one of those) it's tougher once the draw increases - like a blower motor. Solid state frequency and voltage converter/tranformer packages seem pricey. The bigger rotary units seem to work by taking an electric motor that runs on local current and basically driving a generator head that outputs the needed frequency/voltage combination. I imagine a handy guy could put a small 115/220v motor on a cheap ~1KW euro 230 50Hz gen head and get the same results.... still seems undesireable because it adds one more point of failure. Boilers themselves look like something my Dad can handle... very spiffy..

 

[Nofossil]

I was looking into this as I think of replacing the wood furnaces (plural) at our store. While it's fairly inexpensive to convert the small voltages needed for something like a controller (think airport style adapters, I have one of those) it's tougher once the draw increases - like a blower motor. Solid state frequency and voltage converter/tranformer packages seem pricey. The bigger rotary units seem to work by taking an electric motor that runs on local current and basically driving a generator head that outputs the needed frequency/voltage combination. I imagine a handy guy could put a small 115/220v motor on a cheap ~1KW euro 230 50Hz gen head and get the same results.... still seems undesireable because it adds one more point of failure. Boilers themselves look like something my Dad can handle... very spiffy..

I don't think the fan is going to have a problem with 60Hz instead of 50Hz - it will just run a tad faster (maybe). That's good, because getting 50Hz is expensive. However, the voltage is easy. Either wire it to 220 (you probably have that available) or use a very small transformer to step your 110vac up to 220vac. I think a 40va transformer is enough, and they're pretty cheap.

 

[twinturbo 5.9]

I,m very interested also. OverShot did you get your Atmos DC40GS yet? What was your final cost and any problems? mtsjoel what was your US expenses? Thanks for any info?


Thanks twinturbo

 

[twinturbo 5.9]

Do you have someone to handle your entry and bond fees? How much?

Thanks twinturbo

 

[pybyr]

Motors and transformers that can run on 50 Hz are almost always reasonably happy at 60 Hz (although not vice-versa) (but that is not a worry as we are not talking about taking US products overseas).

Motors will run about 20% faster, but that's not a catastrophic variation in this application, as proven by the fact that lots of people are using EKOs in the USA.

But- shameless plug from someone who's a happy customer but not a dealer or investor- why not get an Econoburn- same basic technology, built like it was built for the military, in terms of rugged/ quality construction and simplicity. Plus, support some jobs on-shore!

 

[chrishh]

seabee570, jdboy9, and bupalos,

I'm in western NY and am thinking of purchasing from Kotly also. However I don't think that I will be able to purchase as soon as you guys are probably around early to mid summer. However I would like to know how you guys end up with all this. Also if you guys don't end up doing it until mid summer I may be interested in going in with you guys. Please let me know.

Thanks

P.S.

Question for anyone I had a heat loss/gain done on my plans for my new home and it came back with the following information. This looks to me like I would only need a unit that would be around 50,000 btu but it doesn't seam right can someone explain?

Heat Load: 47,749 Btuh
Heating Temp Diff: 68 F
Winter Design: 6 F
Bldg Bal Temp: 57.7 F
Internal Gains 7,940 Btuh
Heating Setpoint 69 F
HW Temp Setting 125 F
HW Users 2 people (would like to have a design that could Handel up to 5 people)

Annual Loads:
Heating: 79.5 million Btu
Hot Water: 11.6 million Btu
HW Use-Daily: 40 gallons

 

[Singed Eyebrows]

I've ordered the Atmos DC 32GS from Kotly & have been pleased with the fast email responses both before & after the wire transfer got there. My boiler is shipping into Chicago. I have quite a wait as I just ordered it. I will probably buy a cheap Euro inverter to test it(12V to 220V 50 hz) & can also use this for battery backup. I can also step just the motor hz down to 50 with a Smartfan($150.00). The 220v is no problem. What I will probably do is run it off the Euro inverter & check water colume vacuume at the 50hz. Then bend impeller vanes to get the same water colume at 60hz so I don't overdraft this boiler. The motor should run fine on 60hz. The electrics seem simple. It appears I can buy adaptors here for the British straight threads on inlet & outlet etc. I will use a Laddomat 21 & about 2000L storage. When I get this I'll update the post, Randy