Your PF100 flame.

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dmaclaren

Member
Dec 8, 2010
216
Seacoast, NH
So, I was wondering if my PF100 has the best draft. I am at the full 18' horizontal length for pipe. I have never seen anything but my flame. Does anyone have a picture or description to where their flame goes?

I'll have to fire it up to a full heat call to see how fat to or into the tubes it goes.
 
lemme see what yours lookslike, i'll tell you if it looks normal... i have seen alot of those units running, got a pretty good idea. video would be better.
 
I'll try to get one up tomorrow. I know that I have seen it reach the tubes but the manual hour burn is nothing that big.
 
Here is my flame on a fresh start up using autostart. This is why the burn pot is so full


 
looks okay to me... on start up that thing will take off like a sonuvagun, flame filling the box up but will generally settle down after about 15 minutes or so.
 
This is a call for heat.

 
What are your dip switch settings? We have gone round and round with the settings, and the
best for my PF100 is, from left to right, up,up,down,up.
For one thing this does not fill up the burn pot for ignition..Fills the burn pot to where you can look
through the window and see the top of the pellets. Fast burn.
Where is your feed adjustor?
From the look of your flames, I would say the setting is on "5".....correct me if I am wrong.
I have my setting on 3 or 4
Example tonight it is to be 5 degrees...I will put on 4.....
I have tried 5, and a heavy burn, not needed. Could you imagine what a 6 would burn like!
I can believe that it would put out over 100BTU as advertised.
 
I have the Thermostat so the heat setting is on 3 and the feed is on 3. I moved it to 4 & 5 but that only burned up the pellets a little more and same heat. I have had this unit at 3 the while winter and when I set the therm to 69, the digital therm reads 69 all day long, never 68 or 70. I love this unit.
 
Np Dip Switch on the PF100
 
You must have a different PF100 than I have, but it does look the same!
Down where the controls are, you do not have a very small "red" slot
with white in it?. That are the switches......
 
Red Devil said:
You must have a different PF100 than I have, but it does look the same!
Down where the controls are, you do not have a very small "red" slot
with white in it?. That are the switches......

I don't
 
What is this dip switch that you speak of, and what is it for?? My flame hasn't gotten that large, I'm on a 4 feed setting
 
I'll check again after I call for heat after it's been running. Maybe it was just warming up from the fresh start. I'll post again. I don't have a dip switch on my PF100
 
So, the flame you see if calling for heat, not the manual 1lb an hour burn.

I was at 68 on the therm. I move it to jack the heat to the 70/71 position.
The below video is about 1 minute after I turned up the heat.
 
I checked last night, at high draft I'm pulling -0.75 IWC and the flame is about 20% +/- smaller than that. I adjusted the low draft control down to -0.55. The vent pipe goes 3' up to a T, than 13' level horizontal to termination outside.
 
I have no idea that my draft is or how to adjust it if I even can. I do know there is a diagnostic port but not sure what can be done or what plugs into that.

I have n OAK using 3' pipe and it's about 15' to the outside. I have the full 18' horizontal and some vertical with one 90 w/cleanout and the 45 end cap.

Other than that, it's the way I got it. Maybe I should read if I can adjust or not knowing I went through 2 bags in 22.5 hours keeping the house 70 all day and 67 from 8pm - 7am with 1/3 of a 3600 sqft being the unfinished basement.

I don't think this usage is bad.
 
I'll take some detailed pics of my PF100 tonight
 
I would be concerned if that is your flame alot of the time,a flame like that may damage the upper baffle plate or worse yet the heat exchanger, as my baffle plate was beginning to degrade. Your flame seems to curve toward the heat exchanger, I have noticed if you keep the top couple rows of holes in the burnpot uncovered and clear the flame tends to go nearly straight up keeping it away from the baffle and exchanger, I think a call to your dealer would not hurt as they can help with draft settings and dip switch settings that can help, don't just go making changes yourself unless you are sure what to do,and record any changes made so you can return to factory if needed.
 
Post a picture of this dipswitch location please as I don't seem to have one.

Thanks
 
dwk44 said:
I checked last night, at high draft I'm pulling -0.75 IWC and the flame is about 20% +/- smaller than that. I adjusted the low draft control down to -0.55. The vent pipe goes 3' up to a T, than 13' level horizontal to termination outside.

Lets see your flame about a minute after you call for heat on your thermostat or you turn your heat up a notch. This is specifically a call for heat
 
dmaclaren said:
Post a picture of this dipswitch location please as I don't seem to have one.

Thanks

The dip switches are hidden behind the PF100 control panel label. Poke around your label in the location shown in the picture until you find the soft spot. Then poke thru the label and expose the dip switches.

CAUTION!!: BE SURE YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING BEFORE MOVING THE DIP SWITCHES AND MESS UP YOUR STOVE.
You can search and find many threads on this forum describing the dip switches and their settings or get help from your dealer.

PF100DIPsw2.jpg
 
Okay, what gives.

I just looked. YUP, they are there. Also, there is a tab that reveals more too. I think 8? Does that void any warranty? Why do they hide them? How do we know what they mean. Are these factory only? Don't you ding that ODD????


Mine are all down and Obviously, I had to remove the tape and the tab to expose them. Now I need clear tabe as i don't want dust into them. I wonder if I could have removed the panel to get to them.
 
Has anyone figured out which dip switch setting feeds the LEAST amount of pellets at start up?

I wish Harman would have two settings for pellet feed at start up. One when you run it out of pellets (hopper and auger empty) and another for when you or the board shuts itself down (hopper and auger with pellets still in them).
 
This is a post by wil on the iburncorn.com website for a Harmon PB105:

The Hearth & Home Technologies dip switch setting info that I have, it was updated on 4/23/09, states that dip switches #7,8 set the max ESP temperature for specific models. Dip switches 1,2,3 on all Harman stoves and central heating systems control the amount of fuel, corn or pellets, entering the burnpot on start up.

Here is a post from larue on iburncorn.com for a Harmon PC45 stove:
Here is what the technical bulletin for burning pellets says regarding fuel for ignition (Switches 1 thru 3 control the amount of fuel for ignition only. If you need more fuel for ignition, add #3 on to above. If you need less fuel for ignition, turn off #2 and leave just #1 on) The above settings that they refer to are #s 1,2,7,8 on. So a recap is just #1 is the least amount of fuel, #1 an 2 somewhere in the middle, and #1,2,and 3 the most fuel for start up.

Don't know how accurate these posts are; just did searches on the forums. But gives an idea of what is going on. Maybe some forum Harmon repair techs can provide some more info.
 
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