Zero Clearance replacement questions

[quint]

Hey all I currently have a zero clearance old style wood stove. I would like to change it out and am looking for ideas. I want to go with wood burning efficient type stove. If I decided to go with another zero clearance type stove what options would be available to me. I noticed that the one or two I have scene are very pricey. Just looking at the options available right now. Still thinking of the possibilities of doing a insert in the current setup or turning it into a alcove type setup with a stand alone wood stove.

Anyways suggestions/ideas are welcome. Thanks.

 

[kingquad]

Best to post some pics of your setup. If your going to do an insert, you need to check the owners manual or manufacturers website to ensure that your model is approved for a zero clearance insert. Most here, myself included, will recommend tearing out the old fireplace and doing a free standing setup. Many of these prefab fireplace installs are poorly done, not to code, and frankly quite dangerous.

 

[begreen]

quint posted a good shot here: https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/80236/

We've had a lot of great ideas and examples posted. Here are some previous threads on the topic:

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/43366/
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/23931/
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/70264/
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/22037/


If you do a search on zero clearance using the search box above you will find a lot more information on this topic. In terms of cost, expect an insert + liner to run anywhere between $2000-3500, not including redoing the wall around the current fireplace. Replacement costs for a stove in alcove are harder to pin down because of the wide variations in stoves. But figure roughly $1000 for the new flue piping and connector + 1500-2500 for the stove.

 

[Jack768]

Lennox and RSF both make high-efficiency zero-clearance units. I have a Lennox Montecito, installed last year, which has been great. Avoid "mid-efficient" ZC fireplaces as they are essentially decorative/ambiance units that do not work well as functional heaters.

 

[velvetfoot]

But how does the faux firebrick work when it cracks?

 

[quint]

Thanks for the info everyone. Alot of good stuff here. I was looking thru the fireplace and it seems the install was pretty decent from what I can tell.

I will be trying to minimize the cost, I am gonna try to keep it below $3000 if I can. That being said I wanna make sure I do it right also. I am redoing the front of the wall or if I decide to do a stand alone with a alcove setup then I will do most of the work myself with the exception of actually putting in the stove. I am ok at doing walls, tile, brick and stuff like that. The chimney piping will be a first but sure I can figure it out pretty easily although I know it will be a real pain to do.

I am going to keep researching but am leaning to doing a alcove with a stand alone. Just gotta take all my measurements into the stove place and see what kind of options I have. I think I will still check out the possibility of a insert before I start anything just to check all my options.

Thanks everyone and I am sure Ill be back with more pics and for more info.

 

[begreen]

How much area will the stove/insert be heating? How well insulated is the place?

I am guestimating that the alcove would be about 48" wide, is that close? If so, the walls may need shielding to reduce clearances. With planning this can look quite intentional and part of the design. I think you will be able to do the stove part for under $3000 if self installed. You can pick up a Napoleon 1450 or a Pacific Energy Super 27 for a decent price. Try to stick with stoves that have close side clearances.

 

[quint]

The house itself is about 1600 sqft, insulated pretty good (still gotta replace a few windows). The downstairs (family room and garage) Ive got a pellet quadrafire 1000. Old but it works. This is for the upstairs, its a split entry so upstairs is diningrm, kitchen, hallway bath and 3 smaller bedrooms.

From stud to stud the opening is 52", that is before drywall and such, just measuring inside where the current fireplace is.

 

[Jack768]

Whether the new unit is compatible with your existing chimney is also a big cost driver. I had to replace two stories of Class A when I switched out the old zero-clearance unit for the Montecito, and it cost more than the fireplace. Is the current chimney masonry or manufactured chimney?

 

[quint]

Current chimney is the wood box style (not sure what its called) here is a pic from the inside looking up. It would be one story worth of replacement. The current piping is 11CF, its the vented top and bottom type. Dont know too much more about it.

 

[begreen]

The wood box surround is called a chase. Is that the underside of the top in the picture or a firestop at the 1st fl ceiling level? I think the 11CF is two-wall, 11" air-cooled pipe, but am not positive. It will need to be replaced for a wood stove or lined for an insert.

 

[Jack768]

If you want to replace with another ZC fireplace, most of the high-efficiency ones need 6" or 7" pipe and they don't always allow you to connect the smaller flue collar to a larger diameter chimney.

 

[quint]

BeGreen thats looking up from ontop the current fireplace. Pretty sure thats the first stop at the ceiling level. Above that is the attick space (about 4 feet) then it extends up a little on the roof for clearance I think. Thanks still learning all the proper terms for this stuff. From what I could find on the net and measuring it, the pipe is 11" roughly and it is vented at the top of the chimney and just above the fireplace.

With the idea that regardless I will more then likely be replacing the piping I am really leaning toward doing a alcove and stand alone fireplace. The dimensions in the current fireplace are 52" across the front stud to stud, 29" deep from the front of the wall to the aft studs of the chase and the ceilings are 92" from floor to ceiling. Gotta look into what standalones I could put atleast part way back into that space if possible.

I was looking at those threads you posted and the first one I really like how he did that. Without the stone (was thinking more tile or brick but anyways) but overall that setup looks really appealing to me. The other half thought so as well.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/43366/