Motor Wiring & Pellet Build Up

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mkpanache said:
SmokeyTheBear said:
mkpanache said:
It's just me and my wife. I don't know if I can get that thing outside. That's a great idea, though.

I did something I swore I swore I would never do. I bypassed the pressure/ vacuum switch, but the flame wouldn't stay running because there just wasn't enough air. Obviously, I missed something when I cleaned it.

$175 for the first two hours and $60 for each hour after for a professional to clean it. God. I don't know that I have a choice.

Can you get to the vent pipe in the chimney?

If so check the termination cap for crud plugging it and while you are up there and the stove is completely back together attach an electric leaf blower and suck the crud out.

I wasn't kidding when I said there was a hard spot to clean on those stoves, also have you used a stiff brush and given the heat exchanger tubes a very good cleaning (remember to use a face mask)?

Also make certain there is no down slope in that section that the clean out tee attaches to.

You need to do a deep cleaning job (stove) every single ton of pellets burned.

The roof is covered with snow - I can't get up there the way it is now, but I am going to suck the stove out with the leaf blower. I know the combustion motor area is plugged; I thought I got everything last night, but I was wrong. I am going to turn my stove and run bendable piping outside the window to suck it all out. I have not cleaned the heat exchange tubes. Will the blower take care of this? There is no down slope, so I think I am okay with that. I should have been using a face mask all along - I haven't been.

But what is this about a deep cleaning after every ton? If I go through three ton a season, that's three of these cleanings each year? I have been told by many that this kind of cleaning should only be done once per season.

Thank you for your help.

The leaf blower is not likely to get any bonded crap off of the heat exchanger, however with a means of running it while scrapping will prevent crud from coming back at you while you poke and scrape.

Yes that three cleanings of the stove a year is about right burning three tons, with a decent pellet you can go a ton and a half and make it two cleanings.

I take advantage of my vent set up and do it every half to one ton, it is at most a ten minute thing for me, most of the time is lugging the blower out and putting it back.
 
SmokeyTheBear said:
mkpanache said:
SmokeyTheBear said:
mkpanache said:
It's just me and my wife. I don't know if I can get that thing outside. That's a great idea, though.

I did something I swore I swore I would never do. I bypassed the pressure/ vacuum switch, but the flame wouldn't stay running because there just wasn't enough air. Obviously, I missed something when I cleaned it.

$175 for the first two hours and $60 for each hour after for a professional to clean it. God. I don't know that I have a choice.

Can you get to the vent pipe in the chimney?

If so check the termination cap for crud plugging it and while you are up there and the stove is completely back together attach an electric leaf blower and suck the crud out.

I wasn't kidding when I said there was a hard spot to clean on those stoves, also have you used a stiff brush and given the heat exchanger tubes a very good cleaning (remember to use a face mask)?

Also make certain there is no down slope in that section that the clean out tee attaches to.

You need to do a deep cleaning job (stove) every single ton of pellets burned.

The roof is covered with snow - I can't get up there the way it is now, but I am going to suck the stove out with the leaf blower. I know the combustion motor area is plugged; I thought I got everything last night, but I was wrong. I am going to turn my stove and run bendable piping outside the window to suck it all out. I have not cleaned the heat exchange tubes. Will the blower take care of this? There is no down slope, so I think I am okay with that. I should have been using a face mask all along - I haven't been.

But what is this about a deep cleaning after every ton? If I go through three ton a season, that's three of these cleanings each year? I have been told by many that this kind of cleaning should only be done once per season.

Thank you for your help.

The leaf blower is not likely to get any bonded crap off of the heat exchanger, however with a means of running it while scrapping will prevent crud from coming back at you while you poke and scrape.

Yes that three cleanings of the stove a year is about right burning three tons, with a decent pellet you can go a ton and a half and make it two cleanings.

I take advantage of my vent set up and do it every half to one ton, it is at most a ten minute thing for me, most of the time is lugging the blower out and putting it back.

Ok, that's good to know about the exchanger. Thank you. And three cleanings - holy cow. But that's why I am looking to go straight through my chimney now. I have a call into a contractor to see if it will ruin the structural integrity of the chimney. If not, then I will call the town to see if I can get a permit.

Let me ask you this. A guy just told me that he used to use New Englander pellets, and they did this same thing to his stove. That's what I use. Should I change brands?
 
Have you REALLY cleaned out behind the back wall of the stove? I mean really cleaned it with a coat hangar/bottle brush or equivalent? These stoves plug with ash and should be cleaned this way after every ton... tap on the inside back wall with a small hammer...it will help dislodge the ash.

Try the leafblower trick if you can...it will make a huge difference in how the stove operates....

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/91704/
 
krooser said:
Have you REALLY cleaned out behind the back wall of the stove? I mean really cleaned it with a coat hangar/bottle brush or equivalent? These stoves plug with ash and should be cleaned this way after every ton... tap on the inside back wall with a small hammer...it will help dislodge the ash.

Try the leafblower trick if you can...it will make a huge difference in how the stove operates....

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/91704/

Coat hanger, bottle brush, air compressor, snake on a cordless drill. Yes, I have. I have a stove cleaning tool kit.

I have the leaf blower running now.

What I don't get is why. Why is that back wall from the combustion motor to the back wall by the fake wall always plugged when I am doing daily and weekly cleanings? Is it the stove? The pellets? I must need to get up on the roof.

I checked the exchange tubes -they are clear. I am pretty sure I know where it is plugging. Since I am doing the right daily/ weekly maintenance, I don't get why it is plugging.

I haven't tried the hammer, though. Thank you!
 
If the cap on your venting is plugged (and this definitely happens) very little of the fly ash leaves the flue and it all ends up falling down the flue.

You also need to make certain that your venting is installed in the proper manner, absolutely no dips or even flat runs, it must always be going up.

Also your cleaning must always be going away from any area you already cleaned or you are just pushing the ash into the area you just cleaned.

Once the ash starts piling up more ash is generated due to the compromised air flow, it is a vicious circle. You must get the entire stove cleaned out otherwise you will see little improvement and the process repeats, you get pi$$ed off and someone gets a good deal on Craig's List.

ETA: Your stove manufacturer also recommend that the stove be operated with the damper only open about a pencil width.
 
SmokeyTheBear said:
If the cap on your venting is plugged (and this definitely happens) very little of the fly ash leaves the flue and it all ends up falling down the flue.

You also need to make certain that your venting is installed in the proper manner, absolutely no dips or even flat runs, it must always be going up.

Also your cleaning must always be going away from any area you already cleaned or you are just pushing the ash into the area you just cleaned.

Once the ash starts piling up more ash is generated due to the compromised air flow, it is a vicious circle. You must get the entire stove cleaned out otherwise you will see little improvement and the process repeats, you get pi$$ed off and someone gets a good deal on Craig's List.

ETA: Your stove manufacturer also recommend that the stove be operated with the damper only open about a pencil width.

I wish I could get up there. I have no way to until the snow melts.

The venting is installed correctly, and I don't push ash into any of the areas I have already cleaned. This stove has been clogging from six months after I bought it. The venting cap could have plugged that soon? Oh, the leaf blower trick did not work. Light #2 came right back on. And this stove was whistle clean in January. I could have eaten off of it.
 
mkpanache said:
SmokeyTheBear said:
If the cap on your venting is plugged (and this definitely happens) very little of the fly ash leaves the flue and it all ends up falling down the flue.

You also need to make certain that your venting is installed in the proper manner, absolutely no dips or even flat runs, it must always be going up.

Also your cleaning must always be going away from any area you already cleaned or you are just pushing the ash into the area you just cleaned.

Once the ash starts piling up more ash is generated due to the compromised air flow, it is a vicious circle. You must get the entire stove cleaned out otherwise you will see little improvement and the process repeats, you get pi$$ed off and someone gets a good deal on Craig's List.

ETA: Your stove manufacturer also recommend that the stove be operated with the damper only open about a pencil width.

I wish I could get up there. I have no way to until the snow melts.

The venting is installed correctly, and I don't push ash into any of the areas I have already cleaned. This stove has been clogging from six months after I bought it. The venting cap could have plugged that soon? Oh, the leaf blower trick did not work. Light #2 came right back on. And this stove was whistle clean in January. I could have eaten off of it.

That light will come on if the vent cap is plugged as there is still no air flow through the system.
 
SmokeyTheBear said:
mkpanache said:
SmokeyTheBear said:
If the cap on your venting is plugged (and this definitely happens) very little of the fly ash leaves the flue and it all ends up falling down the flue.

You also need to make certain that your venting is installed in the proper manner, absolutely no dips or even flat runs, it must always be going up.

Also your cleaning must always be going away from any area you already cleaned or you are just pushing the ash into the area you just cleaned.

Once the ash starts piling up more ash is generated due to the compromised air flow, it is a vicious circle. You must get the entire stove cleaned out otherwise you will see little improvement and the process repeats, you get pi$$ed off and someone gets a good deal on Craig's List.

ETA: Your stove manufacturer also recommend that the stove be operated with the damper only open about a pencil width.

I wish I could get up there. I have no way to until the snow melts.

The venting is installed correctly, and I don't push ash into any of the areas I have already cleaned. This stove has been clogging from six months after I bought it. The venting cap could have plugged that soon? Oh, the leaf blower trick did not work. Light #2 came right back on. And this stove was whistle clean in January. I could have eaten off of it.

That light will come on if the vent cap is plugged as there is still no air flow through the system.

Under the right conditions. A termination cap can clog within a ton burned?

The vent and cap should be cleaned at least every ton.
 
If using that leaf blower you can get a seal to the vent going up the flue with the output end of the blower you can attempt cleaning that cap by using the blower to blow uo towards that cap. Just be certain you get the business end pointed in the correct direction.
 
Yet another reason to make me want to go through the chimney. Is this just for the St. Croix or for all stoves? No one mentioned scaling a 30 foot chimney for every 50 bags of pellets. The other issue is that this clogged even before we burned through one ton of pellets.

Anyway. I just fixed it. The clog was between the combustion motor and the ash trap. I just don't understand *why* it's clogging in that place. I wish I could see that area. It would be so much easier to clean.
 
SmokeyTheBear said:
If using that leaf blower you can get a seal to the vent going up the flue with the output end of the blower you can attempt cleaning that cap by using the blower to blow uo towards that cap. Just be certain you get the business end pointed in the correct direction.

Thank you. That's good to know.

Thank you everyone for your help. On to the next 40 days.
 
mkpanache said:
......................
But what is this about a deep cleaning after every ton? If I go through three ton a season, that's three of these cleanings each year? I have been told by MANY that this kind of cleaning should only be done once per season.

Thank you for your help.

Were you told that it only needes to be done once a year, by "Many Dealers"?

Or was this message from people who currently own and operate a pellet stove?

Can some people make it a full year? Yes... Is it ideal?? No. These are mechanical and therefore need maintenance. A woodstove is much less mechanical, but the flue should still be inspected and cleaned Monthly, until you know how your burning habits effect the chimney/flue.

Same goes for pellet stoves. Very long Vertical runs have a hard time pushing all the fly ash up and out. So it tends to build up in the bottom of the T, or vertical adapter (if an insert). Horizontal runs will build up as well. The heavy stuff just lays in the vent.

Pellet stoves require a good maintenance schedule and a thorough hand when cleaning. Once the schedule has been done and a good guideline on how often, to clean what, has been established. It becomes second nature and only takes a minute.

Hope you get it figured out... Have you tried a different pellet yet (sorry if I missed it)??
 
Were you told that it only needes to be done once a year, by "Many Dealers"? Yes, I had..,by my dealer, but also some friends I called last night who own stoves. They are blaming the pellets.

Or was this message from people who currently own and operate a pellet stove? Yes, that, too.

Can some people make it a full year? Yes... Is it ideal?? No. These are mechanical and therefore need maintenance. A woodstove is much less mechanical, but the flue should still be inspected and cleaned Monthly, until you know how your burning habits effect the chimney/flue.

Same goes for pellet stoves. Very long Vertical runs have a hard time pushing all the fly ash up and out. So it tends to build up in the bottom of the T, or vertical adapter (if an insert). Horizontal runs will build up as well. The heavy stuff just lays in the vent. This is what I had- I pile of clay like ash in the adapter.

Pellet stoves require a good maintenance schedule and a thorough hand when cleaning. Once the schedule has been done and a good guideline on how often, to clean what, has been established. It becomes second nature and only takes a minute. Here is my issue, though. I have that schedule. I do a daily cleaning. I do a thorough weekly cleaning. That major cleaning you were referencing? I have *had* to do it at least three times each year because that's how many times light #2 comes on. I can't get around it. Did you see the manual posted on the leaf blower thread? There was a section on owner maintenance. I have been following that to the letter. I keep getting this one ash plug and an over abundance of general ash. I don't get it.

Hope you get it figured out... Have you tried a different pellet yet (sorry if I missed it)?? Not yet, but as of tomorrow, that's my next step. Everyone I talked to yesterday told me they had the same issue when using the same pellets. They told me to try Oakies. I need to travel 40 miles to get them, but if they work, it will be worth it not to have to go through this.

Thank you very much for your help. I really appreciate it.
 
mkpanache said:
Were you told that it only needes to be done once a year, by "Many Dealers"? Yes, I had..,by my dealer, but also some friends I called last night who own stoves. They are blaming the pellets.

Or was this message from people who currently own and operate a pellet stove? Yes, that, too.

Can some people make it a full year? Yes... Is it ideal?? No. These are mechanical and therefore need maintenance. A woodstove is much less mechanical, but the flue should still be inspected and cleaned Monthly, until you know how your burning habits effect the chimney/flue.

Same goes for pellet stoves. Very long Vertical runs have a hard time pushing all the fly ash up and out. So it tends to build up in the bottom of the T, or vertical adapter (if an insert). Horizontal runs will build up as well. The heavy stuff just lays in the vent. This is what I had- I pile of clay like ash in the adapter.

Pellet stoves require a good maintenance schedule and a thorough hand when cleaning. Once the schedule has been done and a good guideline on how often, to clean what, has been established. It becomes second nature and only takes a minute. Here is my issue, though. I have that schedule. I do a daily cleaning. I do a thorough weekly cleaning. That major cleaning you were referencing? I have *had* to do it at least three times each year because that's how many times light #2 comes on. I can't get around it. Did you see the manual posted on the leaf blower thread? There was a section on owner maintenance. I have been following that to the letter. I keep getting this one ash plug and an over abundance of general ash. I don't get it.

Hope you get it figured out... Have you tried a different pellet yet (sorry if I missed it)?? Not yet, but as of tomorrow, that's my next step. Everyone I talked to yesterday told me they had the same issue when using the same pellets. They told me to try Oakies. I need to travel 40 miles to get them, but if they work, it will be worth it not to have to go through this.

Thank you very much for your help. I really appreciate it.


Many dealers are full of horse do do. They should all talk in terms of ash produced which is the proper way of doing it.

If you burn dirt in a bag you'll get many times the amount of ash than if you burn a high quality pellet. That means things have to be cleaned sooner and more often.

ETA: BTW that brand of stove you have is noted for having a hard to clean spot, and on some of their newer versions of the stoves they added another clean out. There are many posts on here about bad burns.
 
The spot you are describing is the hard to clean spot in the St. Croix. The new models have a third ash trap door to solve this. Without the leaf blower trick, the only way I have gotten at that area in the past was removing the combustion motor and scraping it with a bottle brush and then using the shop vac. The leaf blower still did a better job. Also, you need to remove the fake bricks and hit the wall behind them with a rubber mallet. That really gets a lot of the stuff. Blowing on the vacuum tube may really help your vacuum switch issue. I run a horizontal exhaust vent, so I don't know about your vent cap issues. But, it sounds like your vent pipe may run horizontally out the side of your house and then vertically up. If so, maybe you can disconnect the pipe somewhere low out side and connect the leaf blower without having to get up on the roof.
 
SmokeyTheBear said:
mkpanache said:
Were you told that it only needes to be done once a year, by "Many Dealers"? Yes, I had..,by my dealer, but also some friends I called last night who own stoves. They are blaming the pellets.

Or was this message from people who currently own and operate a pellet stove? Yes, that, too.

Can some people make it a full year? Yes... Is it ideal?? No. These are mechanical and therefore need maintenance. A woodstove is much less mechanical, but the flue should still be inspected and cleaned Monthly, until you know how your burning habits effect the chimney/flue.

Same goes for pellet stoves. Very long Vertical runs have a hard time pushing all the fly ash up and out. So it tends to build up in the bottom of the T, or vertical adapter (if an insert). Horizontal runs will build up as well. The heavy stuff just lays in the vent. This is what I had- I pile of clay like ash in the adapter.

Pellet stoves require a good maintenance schedule and a thorough hand when cleaning. Once the schedule has been done and a good guideline on how often, to clean what, has been established. It becomes second nature and only takes a minute. Here is my issue, though. I have that schedule. I do a daily cleaning. I do a thorough weekly cleaning. That major cleaning you were referencing? I have *had* to do it at least three times each year because that's how many times light #2 comes on. I can't get around it. Did you see the manual posted on the leaf blower thread? There was a section on owner maintenance. I have been following that to the letter. I keep getting this one ash plug and an over abundance of general ash. I don't get it.

Hope you get it figured out... Have you tried a different pellet yet (sorry if I missed it)?? Not yet, but as of tomorrow, that's my next step. Everyone I talked to yesterday told me they had the same issue when using the same pellets. They told me to try Oakies. I need to travel 40 miles to get them, but if they work, it will be worth it not to have to go through this.

Thank you very much for your help. I really appreciate it.


Many dealers are full of horse do do. They should all talk in terms of ash produced which is the proper way of doing it.

If you burn dirt in a bag you'll get many times the amount of ash than if you burn a high quality pellet. That means things have to be cleaned sooner and more often.

ETA: BTW that brand of stove you have is noted for having a hard to clean spot, and on some of their newer versions of the stoves they added another clean out. There are many posts on here about bad burns.

Hi, Smokey. My name is Kirsten, I'm Mark's wife. He ran out to get some Oakies. We found a pellet place that sells them fairly close by that sells them, and when I spoke to the owner, he said that the pellets we have been using since 2009 have been known for causing issues with this area in the stove. He also said that since we have never tried another brand of pellet - NO one has ever suggested that to us until now, not even our dealer (from whom we buy our pellets), we wouldn't be diagnosing our issue in accordance with pellets. Mark was ready to throw the stove in the street last night. :(

Thank you so much for all of your time and all of your help.
 
mkpanache said:
SmokeyTheBear said:
mkpanache said:
Were you told that it only needes to be done once a year, by "Many Dealers"? Yes, I had..,by my dealer, but also some friends I called last night who own stoves. They are blaming the pellets.

Or was this message from people who currently own and operate a pellet stove? Yes, that, too.

Can some people make it a full year? Yes... Is it ideal?? No. These are mechanical and therefore need maintenance. A woodstove is much less mechanical, but the flue should still be inspected and cleaned Monthly, until you know how your burning habits effect the chimney/flue.

Same goes for pellet stoves. Very long Vertical runs have a hard time pushing all the fly ash up and out. So it tends to build up in the bottom of the T, or vertical adapter (if an insert). Horizontal runs will build up as well. The heavy stuff just lays in the vent. This is what I had- I pile of clay like ash in the adapter.

Pellet stoves require a good maintenance schedule and a thorough hand when cleaning. Once the schedule has been done and a goodbyes guideline on how often, to clean what, has been established. It becomes second nature and only takes a minute. Here is my issue, though. I have that schedule. I do a daily cleaning. I do a thorough weekly cleaning. That major cleaning you were referencing? I have *had* to do it at least three times each year because that's how many times light #2 comes on. I can't get around it. Did you see the manual posted on the leaf blower thread? There was a section on owner maintenance. I have been following that to the letter. I keep getting this one ash plug and an over abundance of general ash. I don't get it.

Hope you get it figured out... Have you tried a different pellet yet (sorry if I missed it)?? Not yet, but as of tomorrow, that's my next step. Everyone I talked to yesterday told me they had the same issue when using the same pellets. They told me to try Oakies. I need to travel 40 miles to get them, but if they work, it will be worth it not to have to go through this.

Thank you very much for your help. I really appreciate it.


Many dealers are full of horse do do. They should all talk in terms of ash produced which is the proper way of doing it.

If you burn dirt in a bag you'll get many times the amount of ash than if you burn a high quality pellet. That means things have to be cleaned sooner and more often.

ETA: BTW that brand of stove you have is noted for having a hard to clean spot, and on some of their newer versions of the stoves they added another clean out. There are many posts on here about bad burns.

Hi, Smokey. My name is Kirsten, I'm Mark's wife. He ran out to get some Oakies. We found a pellet place that sells them fairly close by that sells them, and when I spoke to the owner, he said that the pellets we have been using since 2009 have been known for causing issues with this area in the stove. He also said that since we have never tried another brand of pellet - NO one has ever suggested that to us until now, not even our dealer (from whom we buy our pellets), we wouldn't be diagnosing our issue in accordance with pellets. Mark was ready to throw the stove in the street last night. :(

Thank you so much for all of your time and all of your help.

I think your going to be pleasantly surprised by the Okies. Much.superior pellet, compared to NEWP.

Get ready for a Heat Wave!! ;-P
 
The Other One said:
The spot you are describing is the hard to clean spot in the St. Croix. The new models have a third ash trap door to solve this. Without the leaf blower trick, the only way I have gotten at that area in the past was removing the combustion motor and scraping it with a bottle brush and then using the shop vac. The leaf blower still did a better job. Also, you need to remove the fake bricks and hit the wall behind them with a rubber mallet. That really gets a lot of the stuff. Blowing on the vacuum tube may really help your vacuum switch issue. I run a horizontal exhaust vent, so I don't know about your vent cap issues. But, it sounds like your vent pipe may run horizontally out the side of your house and then vertically up. If so, maybe you can disconnect the pipe somewhere low out side and connect the leaf blower without having to get up on the roof.

Hi, Other One. My name is Kirsten. We have the Prescott. That flipping area absolutely stinks. Mark takes off that motor every time this happens, goes through it with a bottle brush, and then uses a metal shop vac that has been designed for vacuuming hot ash. He bought this so that he can vac out hot ash nightly when he gets home from work. He also has a snake he uses with a cordless drill. I should also mention that the fake bricks are gone. We removed them at one point, and somehow, they broke. Would that make ash get in that area more quickly?

Anyway, he did smack the back wall with a rubber mallet both before and while we were doing the leaf blower thing. Also, you're correct about how the vent pile is situated. It is run on a slight incline horizontally, and then vertically up. Yesterday, we spent about $125 buying the blower, flexible piping, tape, adapters, etc. to get the blower to run out the window. We got a huge ten second PUFF, and then about 20 minutes of occasional "stuff." We got nothing like what you all had shown in the videos. I am really jealous that you go straight out. That's what we are going to look into, but I don't know if we can the way our chimney is constructed.

So we got it running, but now the stove won't see the Smartstat. I'm happy because at least it's running. I put it on manual, and it was running like a bear, but it was getting too hot. I went to power it back from 4 to 3, and the board was frozen. I unplugged the stove to do a reset, and when I plugged it back in, I could not get the right flame; the best I could get was a high, lazy, orange flame.

How could I go from a sharp, pointed flame to a lazy flame in a matter of seconds???? I reset the stove to the settings I had had it at before I shut it down, but nothing changed. I feel like crying. :(

Oh, I have been reading your replies along with my husband. You are all unbelievably nice. Thank you all for taking the time to help us out.
 
DexterDay said:
mkpanache said:
SmokeyTheBear said:
mkpanache said:
Were you told that it only needes to be done once a year, by "Many Dealers"? Yes, I had..,by my dealer, but also some friends I called last night who own stoves. They are blaming the pellets.

Or was this message from people who currently own and operate a pellet stove? Yes, that, too.

Can some people make it a full year? Yes... Is it ideal?? No. These are mechanical and therefore need maintenance. A woodstove is much less mechanical, but the flue should still be inspected and cleaned Monthly, until you know how your burning habits effect the chimney/flue.

Same goes for pellet stoves. Very long Vertical runs have a hard time pushing all the fly ash up and out. So it tends to build up in the bottom of the T, or vertical adapter (if an insert). Horizontal runs will build up as well. The heavy stuff just lays in the vent. This is what I had- I pile of clay like ash in the adapter.

Pellet stoves require a good maintenance schedule and a thorough hand when cleaning. Once the schedule has been done and a goodbyes guideline on how often, to clean what, has been established. It becomes second nature and only takes a minute. Here is my issue, though. I have that schedule. I do a daily cleaning. I do a thorough weekly cleaning. That major cleaning you were referencing? I have *had* to do it at least three times each year because that's how many times light #2 comes on. I can't get around it. Did you see the manual posted on the leaf blower thread? There was a section on owner maintenance. I have been following that to the letter. I keep getting this one ash plug and an over abundance of general ash. I don't get it.

Hope you get it figured out... Have you tried a different pellet yet (sorry if I missed it)?? Not yet, but as of tomorrow, that's my next step. Everyone I talked to yesterday told me they had the same issue when using the same pellets. They told me to try Oakies. I need to travel 40 miles to get them, but if they work, it will be worth it not to have to go through this.

Thank you very much for your help. I really appreciate it.


Many dealers are full of horse do do. They should all talk in terms of ash produced which is the proper way of doing it.

If you burn dirt in a bag you'll get many times the amount of ash than if you burn a high quality pellet. That means things have to be cleaned sooner and more often.

ETA: BTW that brand of stove you have is noted for having a hard to clean spot, and on some of their newer versions of the stoves they added another clean out. There are many posts on here about bad burns.

Hi, Smokey. My name is Kirsten, I'm Mark's wife. He ran out to get some Oakies. We found a pellet place that sells them fairly close by that sells them, and when I spoke to the owner, he said that the pellets we have been using since 2009 have been known for causing issues with this area in the stove. He also said that since we have never tried another brand of pellet - NO one has ever suggested that to us until now, not even our dealer (from whom we buy our pellets), we wouldn't be diagnosing our issue in accordance with pellets. Mark was ready to throw the stove in the street last night. :(

Thank you so much for all of your time and all of your help.

I think your going to be pleasantly surprised by the Okies. Much.superior pellet, compared to NEWP.

Get ready for a Heat Wave!! ;-P

Hi, Dexter. That's so good to know. From just last night, we have had major ash build up in the front of that stove.

Kirsten
 
Welcome Kirsten.

This place exists in part to help with problems. Most folks here try to help and we like it when the problems get solved.

More than one or two of us has burned high ash producing pellets and have done a lot of extra cleaning as a result. When you are prepared for that, things aren't so bad, it is when you aren't that problems tend to really get bad.

If I was burning high ash stuff my cleaning schedule would be a lot different than it currently is and I'd be using my leaf blower once a week. My venting is easier to work on than a tall chimney is. However I would rig up an equivalent means I could use without getting up on the roof in the winter. The problem is rarely with the vertical portion of a vent run (well with the exception of the termination cap).
 
Hi, Smokey. Thanks for the welcome. As soon as Mark gets home, he is going to hook up the blower to the venting to try to clean the cap. Honestly, though, I think we are going to need someone to come in to really go through everything. One of our friends told us that when he ran his stove with the NEWPs, his house was engulfed in dust. We never knew the pellet could affect the performance of the stove. :(
 
If you buy just premium pellets there can be a factor of five in the ash amount produced between the least ash producing pellet and the most ash producing pellet. Couple that with even being slightly off in your stoves fuel/air mixture and things can go downhill rather fast.

I've discovered that doing a bit more than the required cleaning tends to keep the stove burning well and the ole den warmer.

ETA: I've also done stupid things like seeing how long I can go between cleanings (26 bags is my longest) , however the stove cleaning side of me wins out and I clean the stove. Now that imacman went for over a ton and was scaring the senior tech at the place that made his stove.
 
Wow. We had no idea about pellets. None at all. Mark is anal about cleaning that stove, absolutely anal, primarily because he has to pull it off the hearth every time he has to do this. He has gotten to the point where he is beginning to despise the stove. Even with better pellets,though, he won't stop his cleaning rigor.
 
I burned some stuff early on that required the burn pot to be dumped at least twice a day.

Thankfully, between changes to my stove and to the pellets things are a lot better these days.

Sometimes it can take a bit of time to shake everything out.

The primary reason a lot of stoves end up on Craig's list is because of dirt in the plumbing.
 
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