Help picking a good radiant wood stove?

[Chrism]

Quadrafire Isle Royale

 

[Hoozie]

If it is 6" outside that's good. Check the pipe label if unsure. The Tee support outside is bogus. It looks like the pipe joint on top is stressed from the tee sagging. That needs a proper tee support from the manufacturer. Are there any more shortcuts taken on the chimney besides the poor tee support and too short chimney?

No other weird stuff that I can see. Is there a specific Tee support I should get and install?

Well... once you get the chimney deal sorted out, I will just add this..

My sister has a 2000sqft, brick, ranch style, the living room, dining room and kitcheen are effectivly all one space, easily 800sqft. She has an Oslo, sets a small fan at the far end of the central hallway, and strugles to keep the house UNDER 74 degrees.

That would be nice. Last winter if we really worked hard (company coming over) we could get that end of the house up to 80ish. Most of the time we had temps in the high 60s and sometimes low 70s. Low 60s each morning since I would rarely get up at night to reload it, and a 50/50 chance of having any coals left to refire from.

Right now it's a tossup between the Englander 30NC, Jotul 500/600, and the Isle Royale. Decisions, decisions....

 

[neumsky]

I motion also on the Jotul Oslo for radiant effectiveness.

 

[begreen]

No other weird stuff that I can see. Is there a specific Tee support I should get and install?

Get the support made by the same company that made the class A pipe.

 

[Pallet Pete]

Morso also makes some nice stoves too. http://www.morsona.com/index.php/

The 3610 radiant looks pretty nice as well.

Pete

 

[Hoozie]

Get the support made by the same company that made the class A pipe.

Alrighty, did some looking, but I'm not really liking what I found. The pipe was made by Simpson Dura-Vent.

I found this Tee support: http://www.northlineexpress.com/6-d...anized-tee-support-bracket-9472ga-9472ga.html

But, the center of the vertical pipe is 23" from the wall, so that bracket won't reach. I can't bring the pipe in closer to the wall since it would then cover up the attic access hole that's 6' above the Tee. Unless I mounted the pipe near the wall with 4 45* angle pieces to both hug the wall, avoid the access hole, and then clear the eve again

Or I could rig something together like this: http://www.northlineexpress.com/6-duraplus-elbow-strap-9060-9060.html but those straps aren't long enough.

*sigh* Darn previous owners not doing it right

 

[begreen]

Post a picture of the entire outdoor chimney. There's a way to fix this I suspect, but it will help to see the whole shebang first.

 

[Hoozie]

I guess that would probably help

 

[begreen]

Yup, that helps, though it's what I was concerned about. There are no wall braces for the length of the run. The fool person that installed this was cutting every corner he could. Give me a little time to digest the options here.

 

[Pallet Pete]

I guess that would probably help

Wow that's a scary looking install ! Is that an actual through the wall kit or is it home made ?

 

[Hoozie]

Wow that's a scary looking install ! Is that an actual through the wall kit or is it home made ?

The through wall bits look just like the duratech Thimble/collar kit does. I'm pretty sure it's a factory piece. When I take the chimney down to re-brace it from the bottom up I might just take it apart to check it

Yup, that helps, though it's what I was concerned about. There are no wall braces for the length of the run. The fool person that installed this was cutting every corner he could. Give me a little time to digest the options here.

Thanks a lot for the help :beer:

 

[Hoozie]

Been reading here some more (oops ), and I'm kinda liking the thought of an all day burn with the Blaze Kings. Although if I went with the King, since it has an 8" flue, I'd have to replace the entire chimney, right?

 

[begreen]

It looks like the chimney is going to need a rebuild anyhow. If it still is in good condition, you could reuse the current parts if you stick with 6" class A DuraVent pipe. For the rebuild, the goal would be to get it properly supported and anchored and a bit taller. I would take the current horizontal piece in the tee and replace it with a shorter snout piece, like 12-18". Then mount the tee on a proper support bracket, go up to just below the attic entrance, then offset with 30º elbows and a short connector to clear the soffit. Lock the elbows with side plates. Secure the pipe to the building above the tee, just below the lower elbow and at the soffit. Use that long horiz. piece up top to extend the flue height if necessary.

The BK Princess would work for your place. It takes 6" pipe. But it's somewhat off the original request for a strongly radiant stove.

 

[Huntindog1]

I noticed if you have a local Ace Hardware you can get free shipping to an Ace Hardware store on a NC-30.

 

[Huntindog1]

Homedepot has the nc-30 for 899 with too store delivery which should also be free. Looks like the best deal.

 

[truck243]

I have the us stove's Magnolia , its burninng now, I F'n love it! worth every penny! (paid 750.00)

 

[Hoozie]

I think I understand what you're suggesting. Something like this? As far as I can tell all of the existing pipe is still in good condition, so I should be able to reuse it. Cold weather is upon us here, so I'll try to work on it this week. However, I do like the straight shot with the current setup, as it's easy to inspect and clean. With the angled part, if the top and bottom look good, can I assUme the angled bit is clean as well? And the only way to clean it is to disassemble it?

 

[Thomas Anderson]

If you build a hot fire, so long as all the heat isn't going out the chimney (i.e damper closed), I'm not sure what difference it makes which kind of stove you get. I have a BIS Ultima, which is built into the wall like a fireplace, so other than the radiant heat that comes out through the glass door, I guess you would call it a convective stove. But if I get a good fire going in there, it'll heat all 3000 sqft of my house (and keep the room it's in above 90). Just standing next to the double-wall chimney on the second floor will take the chill out of your bones. I think the main thing to consider is the BTU rating of the stove. If you want more heat, get one with a higher BTU rating.

 

[eclecticcottage]

Hey all,

I'm looking to replace my 30 year old Earth Stove with something a bit more efficient. We live in a basin with 'poor' air quality, so depending on the air quality each day, depends on which stoves can burn. (if you're curious: http://www.nmeha.org/Resources/Documents/Klamath Air Delbert.pdf)

Our house is ~2000ft^2. It's single story, and long and narrow. The stove is on an outside wall at one end, and I don't plan on the bedroom at the other end to get heat from the stove. The living room the stove is in is ~750ft^2 (it's HUGE, lol). The house is old enough and been added onto several times, so there's no central heat. Bad wiring and bad insulation don't help. So other than space heaters if we get desperate, the stove will be the main source of heat. And as long as it stays over 60*F inside, we're happy. With any luck we'll replace the house in the next few years.

Ideally we're looking for a stove that radiates heat. We want to back up to it and get warm without needing a blower, and at least be similar to the earth stove like that. We both work from home, and we don't mind reloading during the day, or starting from coals in the morning. Winter lows are usually in the mid 'teens, with highs around freezing. I think I'd prefer to have a non-cat stove, but might be convinced otherwise. Wood is all Ponderosa/Lodgepole Pine, or Juniper.

I was looking at the Lopi Liberty, until I found out that's the stove my parents have, which they really don't like :-| The main thing they don't like is how the fire can be nice and hot, but without the blower running, they don't get any significant heat off it. But talking to my parents some more, they said they got the convective version, and that Lopi also has a radiant version?

Then a friend told me about Jotul. It looks like they are designed to be more radiant than convective, right? The Jotul F 50 looks interesting, and clean enough that I can get a variance to burn on Red days. Although the 500 and 600 also look interesting.

Does anyone have feedback about how much radiant heat the Jotul stoves, or the Lopi Liberty give off? Or any other recommendations for which stove we should get?

Thanks

We have the next size down stove from the Liberty, the Republic 1750 which is the sister stove to the Endeavor (which looks like a smaller version of the Liberty). It heats our house exclusively, we don't use a furnace (we don't have one). Granted our Cottage is smaller than your house, but it's a (former) summer cottage-we recently found there is NO insulation in at least one wall.

We have been buring pine and box elder lately, and it seems to me that the Lopi likes the pine. Last year we regularly managed to have coals in the AM and the evening when we came home (I'd load at about 6:30 am and we'd get home at about 6pm) so I'd have to think the Liberty wouldn't have a problem with overnight burns. We never had a problem keeping warm, although we had a stretch of a few days in the single digits where the vent free kicked on in the front of the Cottage-however it is located in the area with the uninsulated wall.

 

[begreen]

Yes, that is the idea. You will still be able to sweep it, but won't be able to visually check it looking up the pipe. That's not a big deal really. Burn good dry wood in a modern EPA stove and cleaning will only be a couple times a season, if that.

 

[Hoozie]

So you can sweep around the bends just fine? Didn't know that.

Ok, maybe a stupid question. It appears that I have DVL double wall pipe outside. The only 30* bends I can find are triple wall, and cost $320
http://www.dynamitebuys.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=1090

Can double and triple wall pipe be mixed? Of course, it may not happen this year after an unexpected $800 vet bill for a sick horse

 

[begreen]

DVL outside? I was suspicious of that closeup shot of the Tee, but that clinches it. DVL is interior connector pipe only. Whoever piped this chimney messed up seriously. Figure on redoing the entire outdoors chimney if this is the case.