Options on venting

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perley03

Member
Nov 20, 2007
14
Central Maine
I am a renter but in the process of buying the house off my aunt. She told me I could install a pellet stove but for the meantime she doesn't want a big hole drilled through the wall. My thoughts were to remove a window and box it in like a wall and run the pipe through a thimble that way, however will that pass code to keep the insurance guys happy until my name is on the deed?
I have no other way to install it until the house is mine. Probally won't be signing papers until the first of the year and not looking forward to burning straight oil.
House is 1860 sq ft ranch, stove be about central in the house and stove is Englander 25.
 
I am not a fan of this method and wouldnt a nice thimble installed in a wall where you intend on keeping the stove look better then closing up a window? I would talk with your aunt and explain how it will look and its not just a huge hole in the wall. Just remember an OAK if you go near a window or if you close one up.
 
Hello

Since ESW requires you to hook up their Outside Air Kit (OAK) that makes 2 holes in the house. Therefore I recommend the Selkirk DT venting so only one hole is needed. See my pics > https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...stom-lighted-hearth.90555/page-2#post-1184174

Going thru the window will not be easy and does not pass the codes. The inspectors and insurance companies will not be happy. The good news is the Selkirk DT piping does not need a thimbal with a big air space around it so it would be easier to go thru a blocked up window. However the stove placement would be in a different spot if not going thru the window so it would be much easier to do it right the first time!

Show your Aunt my pics on how it looks. You can purchase the black pipes for a nicer look or just use the stove bright satin black paint to save a few bucks!
 
I think she doesn't want a hole (or 2 since the stove needs to run an OAK) in the wall incase we part ways with the deal and she is left with a 3" hole in the wall.
Why wouldn't removing the window, building a box frame out of 2x6 and insulating it work? It's the same thing as a wall, and the nearest window is 12ft away.
I do like that Selkirk DT piping kit, what does a kit like that cost? I need prob 3 ft horizontal, a T fitting, and 8ft vertical to get the cap above the roofline, a wall thimble, and whatever to cap the top.
 
I think she doesn't want a hole (or 2 since the stove needs to run an OAK) in the wall incase we part ways with the deal and she is left with a 3" hole in the wall.
Why wouldn't removing the window, building a box frame out of 2x6 and insulating it work? It's the same thing as a wall, and the nearest window is 12ft away.
I do like that Selkirk DT piping kit, what does a kit like that cost? I need prob 3 ft horizontal, a T fitting, and 8ft vertical to get the cap above the roofline, a wall thimble, and whatever to cap the top.

The rule is no operable window within x inches or y feet from the vent, once the window is no longer an operable window (this can be dicey with some inspectors as to how the window becomes non operable) or becomes in essence a wall there should be no objection either by the insurance company or the code enforcement officer.

More than just the stove venting has to be considered when playing with or changing window area, code requires so much window area be available and if that window is an egress window that there still be sufficient egress available.

FYI, the hole will be bigger than 3" there is a clearance all the way around that must be maintained by the thimble.
 
I think she doesn't want a hole (or 2 since the stove needs to run an OAK) in the wall incase we part ways with the deal and she is left with a 3" hole in the wall.
Why wouldn't removing the window, building a box frame out of 2x6 and insulating it work? It's the same thing as a wall, and the nearest window is 12ft away.
I do like that Selkirk DT piping kit, what does a kit like that cost? I need prob 3 ft horizontal, a T fitting, and 8ft vertical to get the cap above the roofline, a wall thimble, and whatever to cap the top.

Hi
If you do box in the window, then it is not a window anymore so that would work fine! I can get all the venting for you if you do private conversation with me for the quote.
 
No need to go above roof-line either. Follow clearance to combustibles on the vent amd you only need 3' vertical rise and then turn away from siding over 12". Good to go...
 
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