BK T-stat Settings

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Todd

Minister of Fire
Nov 19, 2005
10,323
NW Wisconsin
I know there's lots of variables in this but was just curious where you guys usually set your stat for different burn times with a full load?

I've been burning mostly at 1.5 and it gets me a consistant 24 hours which works well for these 30-50 degree days. If the temps drop in the house I like the fact that I can turn the stat up a bit til the temps come back up then set it back down and it holds the house temps. If I burn lower than 1.5 the burn is over 30 hours and really doesn't put out enough heat to maintain house temps.

I'm thinking when it gets colder I may want to go to 12 hour burns and maybe burn a tad over 2? I lose flame at about 2 so where do you guys burn at to achieve a solid 12 hour burn, do you keep some flame in the box?

I really see no need to burn over 2.5, too much heat blasting off the stove at that setting for me and it's easier to go with a 12 or 24 hour loading schedule. Thanks
 
I know there's lots of variables in this but was just curious where you guys usually set your stat for different burn times with a full load?

I've been burning mostly at 1.5 and it gets me a consistant 24 hours which works well for these 30-50 degree days. If the temps drop in the house I like the fact that I can turn the stat up a bit til the temps come back up then set it back down and it holds the house temps. If I burn lower than 1.5 the burn is over 30 hours and really doesn't put out enough heat to maintain house temps.

I'm thinking when it gets colder I may want to go to 12 hour burns and maybe burn a tad over 2? I lose flame at about 2 so where do you guys burn at to achieve a solid 12 hour burn, do you keep some flame in the box?

I really see no need to burn over 2.5, too much heat blasting off the stove at that setting for me and it's easier to go with a 12 or 24 hour loading schedule. Thanks

Just about never have a flame in the box....

Until its a constant 32::F or below, I burn at the lowest setting "1" get 40+ hrs (hardwood)

Once its constant Freezing Temps I burn at the "N" on Normal and get 24-30hrs (hardwood)

So many variables as You know!

Cheers Hiran
 
I usually burn on the "n" in normal(1 3/4) like Hiram once the temps drop. I don't think I've ever had to burn above 2. When I can't get by with 24 hour loads anymore I start to adjust the load size so I can load every 12 hours or so.
 
Well, I get a dirty burn with a full load burning over 2 so maybe I'll have to adjust the load size as well. Looks like it's going to warm up this week so I can put off the 24 hour burns and play around with some different settings and load sizes.
 
Well, I get a dirty burn with a full load burning over 2 so maybe I'll have to adjust the load size as well. Looks like it's going to warm up this week so I can put off the 24 hour burns and play around with some different settings and load sizes.

Glass/firebox are dirty?
 
Todd, you'll find out in time where exactly to set your tstat once you use the stove a while, I have a spot I put it when its somewhat mild and I have another setting where I automatically set it when its cold out, just takes time and you getting a feel for your stove.
 
Yeah, still learning the stove, that's why I'm curious what others are doing.
 
Todd, I ran a half load of mixed hardwood/softwood thru my Sirocco the other night. NJ overnight temp was 32 degrees. Started stove at 2am (got home from work late), engaged cat and gradually turned it all the way down. I was amazed that the cat was still glowing red with the stove turned all the way down (yeah I know I should not be amazed but I was). House became too warm but hey, it's shoulder season. It is not cold enough during the day to burn the stove so I cannot look at the chimney yet during the burns. I can tell now I will NEVER use the fans, unless I make the house bigger. When it gets colder I will try to burn the stove at full tilt and let you know about the smoke status. I now know (for it's current heating needs) that this stove is going to be more than enough to keep me warm. Now considering taking off the convection deck and fans (no fans needed and the top of that stove would make a nice cooktop).
 
Todd, I ran a half load of mixed hardwood/softwood thru my Sirocco the other night. NJ overnight temp was 32 degrees. Started stove at 2am (got home from work late), engaged cat and gradually turned it all the way down. I was amazed that the cat was still glowing red with the stove turned all the way down (yeah I know I should not be amazed but I was). House became too warm but hey, it's shoulder season. It is not cold enough during the day to burn the stove so I cannot look at the chimney yet during the burns. I can tell now I will NEVER use the fans, unless I make the house bigger. When it gets colder I will try to burn the stove at full tilt and let you know about the smoke status. I now know (for it's current heating needs) that this stove is going to be more than enough to keep me warm. Now considering taking off the convection deck and fans (no fans needed and the top of that stove would make a nice cooktop).

It will be interesting to hear how this new BK performs, I came real close to buying one. Time to change your sig.
 
I'm having the shoulder season blues. Medium stove load, starts and runs fine, reduce to 1.5 within the first hour, close to 1 and go to bed, cat near top of active zone. In the morning the cat is hovering at just barely active but lots of fuel in the box. Outside temps in the mid 50s, flue temps at 200, and bluish smoke lazily exiting the pipe. I turn up the stat to 2 and the cat temps go up a couple hundred, flue temps rise 50, but smoke doesn't go away. Can't get the cat to go very active, just slightly higher in the active range.

Am I just burning too low? I was under the impression that the cat was on or off. It is "active" but obviously not burning the fuel in the smoke. If the cat stalls I thought it would go inactive. Burns are impresively long, and heat output is perfect. I am afraid that seeing smoke and flue temps below 200 that I am glazing the flue. I do believe that I have stalled the cat overnight.

I can open the stove, stir the splits, reestablish flame and get things hot again but don't want to. Am I right that the cat is stalling overnight? Need I keep the setting higher? What is the negative result of stalling the cat?
 
I'm having the shoulder season blues. Medium stove load, starts and runs fine, reduce to 1.5 within the first hour, close to 1 and go to bed, cat near top of active zone. In the morning the cat is hovering at just barely active but lots of fuel in the box. Outside temps in the mid 50s, flue temps at 200, and bluish smoke lazily exiting the pipe. I turn up the stat to 2 and the cat temps go up a couple hundred, flue temps rise 50, but smoke doesn't go away. Can't get the cat to go very active, just slightly higher in the active range.

Am I just burning too low? I was under the impression that the cat was on or off. It is "active" but obviously not burning the fuel in the smoke. If the cat stalls I thought it would go inactive. Burns are impresively long, and heat output is perfect. I am afraid that seeing smoke and flue temps below 200 that I am glazing the flue. I do believe that I have stalled the cat overnight.

I can open the stove, stir the splits, reestablish flame and get things hot again but don't want to. Am I right that the cat is stalling overnight? Need I keep the setting higher? What is the negative result of stalling the cat?


What is your flue set up?

I struggle this time of year with smoke spillage but don't have issues with the cat going inactive. I can burn on 1 and it will stay active/flue clear until the wood is consumed. With my Lopi I could open the door at any point, any time of year and not have smoke spill out. After running the BK for a year plus I've learned to burn it hotter before opening the door and learned some patience opening the door, it has helped but still not perfect. I debating swapping my 90 for 2 45's but hate to waste the money if it doesn't help. With the cool flue temps these stove burn at I guess I'm not surprised.
 
What is your flue set up?

All vertical, double wall to ceiling and then 8 feet of class A to cap. So the cat probe reading "Active" doesn't actually mean the cat is active? How does one make it active again? A higher stat setting, and glowing coals, didn't seem to do it.

Really really dry wood. Must be poor draft from the warmish outside temps and low flue temps. I'll need to burn overnight at 1.5 instead of 1.
 
All vertical, double wall to ceiling and then 8 feet of class A to cap. So the cat probe reading "Active" doesn't actually mean the cat is active? How does one make it active again? A higher stat setting, and glowing coals, didn't seem to do it.

Really really dry wood. Must be poor draft from the warmish outside temps and low flue temps. I'll need to burn overnight at 1.5 instead of 1.


As far as I know cat probe reading "active" should be active BUT we've all questioned how accurate these probes are. Try burning it on 1.5 and report back on how it responds. Is the stove in a room with 8' ceilings or is it a cathedral ceiling? You may want to try a few more feet with a test pipe and see how it responds.
 
Flat ceiling, about 8 feet. The current class A sits about 4 feet above the roof and I do not plan on adding more pipe.
 
I say bump it up a bit Highbeam. What I found is burning at 1.5 gives me a plenty long burn and the t-stat is still opening and closing. After 24 hours my cat is still way up in the active zone. #1 for me is totally closed and I doubt it opens up much or if any at all and I can see where sluggish shoulder season draft could stall out the cat. Maybe once the outside temps get colder you'll be able to tweak it down a little further as the draft increases.

Comparing my BK cat probe to my Condar cat probe that first tick just above the active zone is 500 which is where the cat should light off so I would try and keep it 100 degrees above that first tick. The cat probes seem to be pretty accurate (tested with teltru probe) till they get up over 1000 then the radiant heat from the stove top takes over.
 
Thanks guys. Will try a full burn at 1.5. I hope I didn't gunk up my flue too bad with the stalled cat and smoldering burn.
 
Thanks guys. Will try a full burn at 1.5. I hope I didn't gunk up my flue too bad with the stalled cat and smoldering burn.
HB I didn't know you crossed to the darkside!

Ray
 
Hey Todd, I don't recall reading if you fixed it or not, was it OK with your T stat being so close to the wall? Could that be an issue or did you fix it? At least I think it was your install.

I think Todd moved his stove out some.
 
Flat ceiling, about 8 feet. The current class A sits about 4 feet above the roof and I do not plan on adding more pipe.

So you have about 13-14' of total pipe? I bet another section would do wonders for you. I hate to see you not be able to burn the stove on low since the low burn was one of the reasons for you to make the switch.

I think it was JeffT that added another section of pipe and it made a difference for him.
 
So you have about 13-14' of total pipe? I bet another section would do wonders for you. I hate to see you not be able to burn the stove on low since the low burn was one of the reasons for you to make the switch.

I think it was JeffT that added another section of pipe and it made a difference for him.

Yes, 13-14 well within spec plus ideal vertical and double wall. If I can overcome the cat stall issue by just giving it more air during the warmish shoulder season then that would be best. Oh, and my appliance adapter has a fully open key damper in it which surely causes some restriction. Not sure how much though. Do you think the key damper is a problem?
 
I didn't see a spec in my manual, but when I called BK they said 14'. I was around 13, and it was okay. When I added three feet, it was a noticeable improvement. Not 'WOW', but easier starting, more complete burn, a little cleaner glass ;em. I got it burning in December, so I can't tell you how it worked with super low burns before that. It looks a little goofy, but I have to pull the top section off to get the brush in the pipe, so I put that one in the garage for the summer.

I'd get that key damper out of there. You won't ever need it.

I will add that my stove is barley closed at 1.5. At 1, it is closed more firmly.
 
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