Regency i3100

[burnt03]

Maybe try a top down start with the door closed and the air control wide open? I did that when it was a bit warmer here and it kick started the fire pretty good...

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...own-method-and-other-tips.92574/#post-1214681

 

[TTigano]

it is lined. full stainless steel "316 Ti" liner from top to bottom and cap

Also, make sure you don't have a negative pressure being created b a dryer or something. Sometimes I crack the door of the stove for the "billow" effect.

 

[John Rubbo]

awesome. thanks gang! i will try the top down method tomorrow. now with the top-down method after i light the newspaper, do i fully shut the door and "lock" it or do i leave a crack so some air can get in there?

 

[John Rubbo]

so the top down method did start the fire without any problem. the problem i am having now is that i still get smoke entering my living room when i try to add more logs (almost an hour later). had my dad stope over...he has owned a wood stove for 15+ years and he said this is definitely not normal. any other ideas? im going to call the installer in a few days if i cant figure this out...kinda frustrated.

 

[begreen]

It's possible something was not done correctly at installation. Was this a self install or a dealer install? The most obvious thing to check is the baffle. Both sides should be all the way to the back of the stove with the left side baffle inserted first then the right, with their ship lock joints overlapping. Also, did the 3d secondary air tube get installed?

If that all is done correctly then I would inspect the liner, especially going through the damper. If it is ovalized too much it may draw poorly.

Note that when you want to open up the stove door to reload, open the air up all the way first. Wait about 5 seconds, then slowly open the door.

 

[rideau]

So,in the weather today are you still experiencing smoke? You have almost no difference between inside and outside temps on the day you posted. You can use a hair dryer directed toward the flue to warm the flue = no smoke. Once the flue is warm, even with the small temp differential you'll get a decent draft. Load the the fire the way you want it for when you first light it, warm the flue with the hair dryer, light a match under the flue and see if the flame is drawn toward the flue. If it is, you shouildn't have any smoke leakage. All this time, air is completely open and , if you have a cat, cat is in bypass mode (not engaged). Once you have positive draft, start your fire.

You can get some long fireplace matches, and always check your draft prior to lighting the Regency, until you find temps are such that your testing shows consistently that you have a good draft. then just light the stove, unless you run into a problem with smoke again. Really think you'll be OK without warming the flue once temps are colder. If not, the hair dryer is a simple smokefree solution and should work.

Good luck.

 

[velvetfoot]

I have the regency i1200 smaller version of yours and in my manual it says to only turn the air down 1/2 when you have the fan running I think it has to do with keeping the firebox hot enough. I had the same thing happening to me when I first got my insert I would cut back the air too much and the fire would pretty much go out. So my new technique is to get the fire going with kindling 5-7 mins later add a few splitts and then after 5-10 mins or so cut the air back too 3/4 then 5-10 mins later put the air to 1/2 and leave it there until a reload. when reloading if there is lots of coals I open the air and throw in more splits shut the door and after 5 mins cut the air back to 1/2. All of this may not be the perfect way of doing it as this is my first year burning but it seems to be working for me so far.

HELLO!! I think the manual talks about 1/2" not 1/2.

 

[velvetfoot]

do you fully close the door? or just leave a crack to allow some air?

I leave it open a crack to start, use a fire starter square, put some newspaper in, and crack open a window when the draft is going in the wrong direction.

 

[burnt03]

so the top down method did start the fire without any problem. the problem i am having now is that i still get smoke entering my living room when i try to add more logs (almost an hour later). had my dad stope over...he has owned a wood stove for 15+ years and he said this is definitely not normal. any other ideas? im going to call the installer in a few days if i cant figure this out...kinda frustrated.

I'm finding the same problem with mine lately, will get a little bit of smoke finding it's way into the house. I find if I let the entire load burn down to coals so it's not actually flaming anymore, I don't have that problem anymore. From what I've read, I guess you're supposed to load in batches (not add a few logs every hour or two).

I "think" it'll improve as it gets colder.

 

[TTigano]

Just for giggles, fired up the stove...I must be lucky because I'm able to light the kindling and immediately shut the door. I left the door open also had no smoke in the house.. like mentioned above, are your baffles properly installed? What are you using to actually start the fire? You want to use very dry and small kindling first with two medium sized splits about 4" apart making a tunnel. I think people here refer it as the love tunnel. Post a couple of pictures since we can help you out.

 

[John Rubbo]

i am using "fire starters"....they almost look like small pieces of hardwood flooring. i have been putting alot of newspaper under them.
i checked the baffle this morning and it looks fine (overlaps in the center). how do i check for the 3d air tube?
called the installer this morning and he said after the storm later this week he would stop over to check it out...

 

[salmonhunter]

HELLO!! I think the manual talks about 1/2" not 1/2.

I just went and read the manual because of your post and your right it is 1/2" from fully closed. Looks like I should be closing the air down more then I have been. Looking forward to my next fire tonight to see what the difference is gonna be. thanks velvetfoot

 

[John Rubbo]

something is defnitely off here. i just opened the door to red hot coals and smoke came out of the front of the stove.

 

[begreen]

What are your outdoor temps? Did you open up the air control first, then wait 5-10 seconds and open the door slowly?

 

[John Rubbo]

temp is ~ 55 today. air control is open. i'll try opening the door more slowly with my next load of wood.

 

[etiger2007]

i dont like the fact you got smoke spillage with coals, for giggles i just opened my door quickley with the blower off and air wide open and i didnt get smoke in the house. good luck , check your manual for burn tube placement, i have three tubes and they have different size holes in them, this requires the tubes to be placed ina certain way, just a suggestion

 

[begreen]

Everybody's setup is different. It sounds like John's draft is slightly marginal today. A ten degree drop in outside temps can make a big difference in draft improvement.

When you checked the baffle, was is pushed all the way to the back of the stove? Also, did you check the insulation blanket on top of the baffle? That must not bunch up at the back of the baffle or it will block draft. It needs to lay flat. There should be a few pieces of flat stock on top of it to be sure it lays flat.

Edit: no blanket on the 3100.

 

[Woody Stover]

something is defnitely off here. i just opened the door to red hot coals and smoke came out of the front of the stove.

Is the smoke coming off the door itself? If your wood isn't quite dry, some creosote can stick to the walls and door of the stove, then start burning off later as the fire gets hotter. In this case, I've seen smoke rising from the inside of the door when it is opened.

temp is ~ 55 today. air control is open. i'll try opening the door more slowly with my next load of wood.

From what you are saying, it sounds like weakened draft due to high temps outside may be exacerbating the issue. What you might do is open the door slightly for a few seconds. If you see smoke in the box, give it several more seconds to clear out. Closing the primary air should also pull a little more air in through the door.
With 25' of stack, though, you should be getting good draft...
Hang in there, you'll overcome this temporary setback. Soon your house will be smoke-free and you can concentrate on getting it so warm that she starts peeling off clothing.

 

[John Rubbo]

yea just checked baffle again. everything looks good (goes all the way to back and insulation looks good). smoke seems to defnitely be coming from the fire (not the door). this wood is well seasoned..15% moisture content. i am hoping the installer can come later this week
@minister of fire...LOL. thanks I'm looking forward to that

 

[John Rubbo]

ps turning on my AC "fan" does work....i am finding that the rest of the house is about 3 degrees cooler than the room with the stove...not bad at all!

 

[burnt03]

ps turning on my AC "fan" does work....i am finding that the rest of the house is about 3 degrees cooler than the room with the stove...not bad at all!

That's good to know, I think I'll give that a try on my next burn too!

 

[TTigano]

what "insulation" blanket are you guys talking about? I have the cast iron version of this stove and above my baffles is nothing like a "blanket".

 

[velvetfoot]

no blanket here either.

 

[begreen]

Thanks for pointing that out, my bad. Regency combines the 3100 manual with the 2100 manual. I scrolled down to the schematic diagram too far and went to the 2100 instead of the 3100 on the page before. The 2100 is the insert with the insulation blanket. Prior posting corrected.

 

[John Rubbo]

yea sorry. def not a blanket here. i thought by insulation you meant the bricks on the sides of the stove. so i have been loading today E/W (before i was doing kind of a diagonal stack) and thing is kicking some major heat. question though....do u guys let it go down to hot coals before adding another load?

ps. WAY less smoke inside today with the weather in the upper 40's. hopefully this trend continues!