I'm a novice with only a couple lights under my belt. However, they were smokey. I've tried a couple of the normal tricks. Can anyone advise on how they light their FPX 36/44 without smoke coming into the living space?
Thanks
Thanks
FPX36 smokey starts....
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corey21
Minister of Fire
Huntindog1
Minister of Fire
Chimney is about 17-19 ft so not getting a draft could be the issue. I tried lighting newspaper to start the draft will minimal success. I saw the hairdryer comment but are there other solutions? As for the wood, the moisture ranges from 18 percent to 22 percent. But the kindling im using is scrap 2x4's split into small pieces so its moisture is less.
Thanks for any advise.
Thanks for any advise.
Bypass is all the way open as is air flow control. Single door which I leave a little open. Once the fire is going there is no smoke. Just while starting. Would opening a window in the house make it worse or better?
Yes, there is a set of two. One elbow straight off the stove with an 18" (I believe) pipe to the next elbow. Then straight up from there. I know it wasn't ideal to put the elbow right on the stove but that is where it needed to be. I'm going to keep testing things and see if I can get some tricks to work.
velvetfoot
Minister of Fire
I read somewhere that one 90 degree elbow = -5 ft and -3 ft for 45 degree. I assume you have two 45 degree elbow so you need to deduct 6 feet out of your total flue length. If that's true, you'll have only 11 - 13 ft effective flue length, which is not enough for the minimal 15 ft requirement for the FPX36.
Other senior member please chime in in case I state anything incorrectly.
Other senior member please chime in in case I state anything incorrectly.
The FPX chimney would have 30 degree elbows, as with any chimney for wood burning. But it could be making a difference. Can the chimney be added onto if needed?
I have a new FPX36 and just started using it. The way I avoid smoke is to do the following:
1. Prior to starting a fire, pull the bypass rod all the way out.
2. Open the air valve all the way (i.e. slide to the left).
3. Build a nice dried tinder bedding in the firebox with enough newspaper to ignite it. I put down crumpled newspaper pieces with dried out, broken up twigs/sticks with some really small splits stacked criss-cross on top.
4. Light the newspaper under the dried tinder.
5. Quickly close the door and latch it.
6. Once it starts burning - and it should burn fine without any further fussing as long as the tinder bedding and newspaper is set correctly in the beginning - then you may crack the door to help accelerate airflow into the fire and get smoke drawn up the flue.
7. Once the tinder is going well and smoke is flowing up the flue with a proper draft, only then open the door to add more wood. I keep the bypass rod pulled out until it's going well.
8. Anytime I plan on opening the door to add wood or stoke the fire etc, I first make sure the air valve is fully open and I pull the bypass rod out and allow at least 30 seconds for the smoke to clear before opening. Even then I slowly open the door to help ensure residual smoke is sucked up the chimney with the draft.
This is what works for me, hopefully it will for you too.
PS: I also have the single door (hinged on the right) and a 20' chimney
1. Prior to starting a fire, pull the bypass rod all the way out.
2. Open the air valve all the way (i.e. slide to the left).
3. Build a nice dried tinder bedding in the firebox with enough newspaper to ignite it. I put down crumpled newspaper pieces with dried out, broken up twigs/sticks with some really small splits stacked criss-cross on top.
4. Light the newspaper under the dried tinder.
5. Quickly close the door and latch it.
6. Once it starts burning - and it should burn fine without any further fussing as long as the tinder bedding and newspaper is set correctly in the beginning - then you may crack the door to help accelerate airflow into the fire and get smoke drawn up the flue.
7. Once the tinder is going well and smoke is flowing up the flue with a proper draft, only then open the door to add more wood. I keep the bypass rod pulled out until it's going well.
8. Anytime I plan on opening the door to add wood or stoke the fire etc, I first make sure the air valve is fully open and I pull the bypass rod out and allow at least 30 seconds for the smoke to clear before opening. Even then I slowly open the door to help ensure residual smoke is sucked up the chimney with the draft.
This is what works for me, hopefully it will for you too.
PS: I also have the single door (hinged on the right) and a 20' chimney
maverick06
Minister of Fire
for mine, as it has 2 doors, you have to open them at the same rate, this keeps the air going straight back. If you only open 1, it will cause the air to spin inside and makes it easier for smoke to come out. When opening hte doors, it is also pretty critical to open the bypass then the doors a crack and let it sit for 30 seconds. This will clear most of the smoke from the firebox.
I have a backpuffing issue if the outside air temp is much above 45F. starts are really hard, have to work hard to get the draft going (newspaper or whatnot).
I have a backpuffing issue if the outside air temp is much above 45F. starts are really hard, have to work hard to get the draft going (newspaper or whatnot).
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