Homestead hearth mount

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Wolfy

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Nov 7, 2012
25
Hello,very good site you all have here. Wishing now I'd have done research here, ARRRG. Had a junk tempco here when we bought the home.It's in the pole barn now. Was an alcove install. In our living room sets a beautiful Homestead soapstone stove that has a hearth req. of friggin 6.6 . Have ordered 2 sheets of mineral wool ins. board 2" thick with wire from McMaster-Carr. Dealer sold us heat shield and surround-they will not work together. Has anyone here had installs useing this board,and why does this stove loose soooo much heat out the bottem ? Will try to get pic's posted.
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Welcome Wolfy. The Homestead needs R=2.5 hearth I believe. You can achieve this with 5 layers of Durock Next Gen or a couple layers of 1/2" micore with Durock on top.
 
Welcome Wolfy. The Homestead needs R=2.5 hearth I believe. You can achieve this with 5 layers of Durock Next Gen or a couple layers of 1/2" micore with Durock on top.
Thanks for the reply begreen,
Ya thats with the 6" legs. My opening was 42 1/4" now is 31 3/4". 6.6 is just a crazy number for R-value. This stove dumps alot of heat out the bottom. Trying to get some pic's posted.
 
Not sure how much/far you want to go.. but.. click that link in my sig..

and yes, for whatever reason, the Homestead, with the hearthmount legs has a 6.6 requirement. The nice thing is... you KNOW your hearth is fine for any other stove once you build to that spec... lol
 
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I always chuckle when I read the homestead is ZC approved, few existing hearths are adequate.
Ya just what does ZC mean ? It's not zero clearance.
 
Not sure how much/far you want to go.. but.. click that link in my sig..

and yes, for whatever reason, the Homestead, with the hearthmount legs has a 6.6 requirement. The nice thing is... you KNOW your hearth is fine for any other stove once you build to that spec... lol
Well at this point must do what ever it takes. Thanks for all the pic's. So saw the steel studs but what mat. did you use to get to 6.6?
 
Well at this point must do what ever it takes. Thanks for all the pic's. So saw the steel studs but what mat. did you use to get to 6.6?

It's 3.5 inches of rockwool unfaced batt. Hard to find. R 3.5 per inch.. so that is R12.5 or so, just for the batt.

My buddy, who was the county inspector at the time (no inspection needed here, but he's a buddy, so he came by..) Told me if I had just used unfaced fiberglass batt it would have been fine..
 
It's 3.5 inches of rockwool unfaced batt. Hard to find. R 3.5 per inch.. so that is R12.5 or so, just for the batt.

My buddy, who was the county inspector at the time (no inspection needed here, but he's a buddy, so he came by..) Told me if I had just used unfaced fiberglass batt it would have been fine..

The problem here is metal studs can transfer heat. Received the mineral wool insulation from M-C. It will compress so I don't think it will hold up to 400 lb. stove.1352572653788.jpg 1352572697688.jpg 1352572713766.jpg 1352572653788.jpg 1352572697688.jpg 1352572713766.jpg
 
the amount of heat transfered through the metal stud is not measurable. I left two places to check.
 
the amount of heat transfered through the metal stud is not measurable. I left two places to check.

Good to know,thanks. That's the route to go then
 
Well , getting there. See any problems ?IMAG0263.jpg
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What is the OSB doing there? That becomes the nearest combustible. It negates the insulation below it.
OSB were. Floors OSB. One more steel stud floor and another layer of nextgen to go. R-11 insulation .
 
How many layers are on top of the steel studs?
 
How many layers are on top of the steel studs?
1 - 1/2 on the first,will be one more on the second,then 3/4 " granite on that.
 
You have a fair bit of wood framing there, is it going to be outside the clearance requirements, side and rear?

How far back in there do you calculate the stove to be? How high is the ceiling of your "alcove"?

What class A are you using? That interface box doesn't look like any I have ever seen..
 
Very good questions. I am finding the overall plan confusing. It's unclear where the stove is going to sit, why the surround kit and how the chimney is being run. wolfy, is the intent to install the stove recessed or to install it flush with the wall and then to use the surround to make it look like it is installed in a fireplace?
 
Very good questions. I am finding the overall plan confusing. It's unclear where the stove is going to sit, why the surround kit and how the chimney is being run. wolfy, is the intent to install the stove recessed or to install it flush with the wall and then to use the surround to make it look like it is installed in a fireplace?


Stove will set flush with drywall. Heat shield sets 2" inside of that plane. 2x6 wallstuds 9 1/2" away from side heat shield. Studs overlayed with 2" mineral wool ins.
Selkirk ulta-temp. Out the back to a clean-out tee. From the floor it's 90" to the old firestop. Then 110" to the top of alcove.
It's been a long day. Took the old mantel '1880's' to a local resale shop. Made cut-outs in shield for surround. Then closed them backup with sheet metal
 
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Sorry ,got them dumped to L.T. Thanks again for all your inputs.IMAG0267.jpgIMAG0267.jpg
 

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What is supporting the the ultratemp?

The plan sounds eccentric. Why is the stove being set into this tiny alcove cavity? It's not designed to operate in an enclosed space and the design sounds very inefficient. I am quite concerned about clearances here, especially above the stove where the maximum heat will be produced. It violates the manual specs for an alcove. Is this installation getting inspected?

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What is supporting the the ultratemp?

The plan sounds eccentric. Why is the stove being set into this tiny alcove cavity? It's not designed to operate in an enclosed space and the design sounds very inefficient. I am quite concerned about clearances here, especially above the stove where the maximum heat will be produced. It violates the manual specs for an alcove. Is this installation getting inspected?

View attachment 81249
Its not setying inside ,the back of the stove will be flush with the drywall. Was hoping to use a roof support on old firestop and roof.
This is a pic looking up thru the alcove?chase?
 

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You have a fair bit of wood framing there, is it going to be outside the clearance requirements, side and rear?

How far back in there do you calculate the stove to be? How high is the ceiling of your "alcove"?

What class A are you using? That interface box doesn't look like any I have ever seen..
The romex is from the old fireplace blower control. Thinking of useing it for lights in the or above the mantel.
 
Cool, that is much better. The pics of the stove sitting behind the surround threw me off. I think the pipe is going to need better support. The old firestop may not fit the new pipe and it will offer no support. For peace of mind I would consider supporting the class A pipe at the bottom with a proper support.
 
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