Saw Buck for Sandy wood

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jatoxico

Minister of Fire
Aug 8, 2011
4,369
Long Island NY
Split all the rounds I have gotten so far from Sandy. Built this saw buck to hold the stuff I need to put the saw to. Hope it helps, folds up when I need to get it out of the way. Now if I only had a saw I could feel good about.
 

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Nice looking saw buck and wood.
 
Nice looking saw buck and wood.

Thanks. Should be a nice upgrade compared to using my foot, bit safer too. Better equipped this year thanks to what I'm picking up here and it's paying off. Stove is burning hot and clean.
 
Now if I only had a saw I could feel good about.

What are you running? Just curious. The saw that gets the job done you can feel good about. A C
 
What are you running? Just curious. The saw that gets the job done you can feel good about. A C

Alright no laughing...I mean it! I have an old Craftsman electric with a now broken chain brake that I got for $40.00 20 years ago. Actually it's been great around the house doing the things I've needed to do and with a sharp chain it's surprisingly good. But now with this wood burning thing it's time to get serious.

Tell you truth even after I get myself a new saw I think I'd still like to have an electric around, they're really handy.
 
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What are you running? Just curious. The saw that gets the job done you can feel good about. A C

If you need a new saw and you have Tractor Supply around, especially if you're in an area hit by Sandy, you'll find a bunch of good Husky's that have been used for maybe an hour and returned for sale for a pretty good discount. Just pick up a new chain.
 
If you need a new saw and you have Tractor Supply around, especially if you're in an area hit by Sandy, you'll find a bunch of good Husky's that have been used for maybe an hour and returned for sale for a pretty good discount. Just pick up a new chain.

How do they them, as refurbished? Been looking to run into a deal don't know exactly what I need, thinking 16" something would be plenty.
 
How do they them, as refurbished? Been looking to run into a deal don't know exactly what I need, thinking 16" something would be plenty.

Some are truly refurbished models, but a lot of them look to be just straight returns from people that had a tree across their driveway or something, bought the saw to cut it, and returned it.

After Irene I noitced the same thing at HD and Lowes with generators....maybe they had saws too, but TONZ of gently used and discounted generators.

*I don't work at any of the aforementioned retailers, nor do I guarantee the quality of any used/discounted merchandise. Just passing on an observation.*
If I needed/could afford another saw, I would have picked one of the used ones up by now :)

I'm sure there are good deals to be had at any big retailer in Sandy-impacted territory. Go to your closest one and ask.
 
How do they them, as refurbished? Been looking to run into a deal don't know exactly what I need, thinking 16" something would be plenty.

There is nothing wrong with an electric saw, very dependable & powerful, heck they used to cut old growth timber in the pnw with huge electrics run off generators. As for a new saw, how much will you cut/burn in the future? One thing about wood heat, it requires some planning for the future to be an efficient & enjoyable experience. Don't go too small in cc's or you'll regret it later, & if you plan to heat with wood for the long term, buy quality. If you regret the purchase of a good saw you can always sell & not lose much on it. A C
 
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nice having the short side on the sawbuck....
 
Thanks. Should be a nice upgrade compared to using my foot, bit safer too. Better equipped this year thanks to what I'm picking up here and it's paying off. Stove is burning hot and clean.

I keep saying I'm going to do something to avoid using my feet as much while cutting....just never follow through. Smaller trunks and limbs, I rest on two or three masonry blocks, but inevitably, when I get to a certain point, I have to put my foot on there because they weight isn't enough.
 
I keep saying I'm going to do something to avoid using my feet as much while cutting....just never follow through. Smaller trunks and limbs, I rest on two or three masonry blocks, but inevitably, when I get to a certain point, I have to put my foot on there because they weight isn't enough.

Is there anything wrong with letting the small stuff pull into the saw and using the spikes as your foot to keep the saw from rolling?? I've been doing this for years.....no safety issues so far?? For small stuff on the ground that isn't too long I can sometimes get the log to roll towards me by pulling back, no need to let the bar hit dirt. Have yet to have a safety issue utilizing this method....am I asking for trouble?
 
Is there anything wrong with letting the small stuff pull into the saw and using the spikes as your foot to keep the saw from rolling?? I've been doing this for years.....no safety issues so far?? For small stuff on the ground that isn't too long I can sometimes get the log to roll towards me by pulling back, no need to let the bar hit dirt. Have yet to have a safety issue utilizing this method....am I asking for trouble?

Been doing much the same and getting by. The thing for me is when you get pieces with elbows etc that are not stable in the position you want to cut, I find myself doing things that are not too safe. Not to mention the bending over and holding with one foot, it's an awkward position.
 
I keep saying I'm going to do something to avoid using my feet as much while cutting....just never follow through. Smaller trunks and limbs, I rest on two or three masonry blocks, but inevitably, when I get to a certain point, I have to put my foot on there because they weight isn't enough.

Same here, finally followed through. Buck is made from 5, 2x4"x8' and 3, 3.5" bolts and washers. Nice to be working at waist height.
 
There is nothing wrong with an electric saw, very dependable & powerful, heck they used to cut old growth timber in the pnw with huge electrics run off generators. As for a new saw, how much will you cut/burn in the future? One thing about wood heat, it requires some planning for the future to be an efficient & enjoyable experience. Don't go too small in cc's or you'll regret it later, & if you plan to heat with wood for the long term, buy quality. If you regret the purchase of a good saw you can always sell & not lose much on it. A C

That's it right there. Before the stove I cut mainly for property maintenance and a little wood for the fireplace. With the stove I think I need to keep myself in 1.5-2 cord supply each year. I'm 2 years ahead now. Should probably look up on an old thread but from what I've read here a 16' Stihl or Husky would be plenty. If I needed more saw than that I'd probably pass on the score.
 
Alright no laughing...I mean it! I have an old Craftsman electric with a now broken chain brake that I got for $40.00 20 years ago. Actually it's been great around the house doing the things I've needed to do and with a sharp chain it's surprisingly good. But now with this wood burning thing it's time to get serious.

Tell you truth even after I get myself a new saw I think I'd still like to have an electric around, they're really handy.

Okay, why would anyone laugh? $40.00 and 20 years. Figure that one out in dollars and you won't laugh!

On a newer saw, first try to determine what size logs you will be cutting. For example, on our place we have only a few mature trees so I simply do not need or want a large saw. The Stihl Farm Boss 290 does just fine and we also only put on a 16" bar which makes it as light as possible but still large enough to do the job we need done. I had to laugh a couple years ago when a fellow came in to cut some firewood (some of our dead ash). Oh how he bragged about his saw! It was a nice saw for sure and contrary to what he thought, I've wrestled the big saws plenty but have no intention to do so now. So which saw was better? His saw which cost $1,100.00 and it did cut faster than my saw which cost less than $300.00. As stated, it did cut faster as it should but....I simply do not need it.

For saws, I highly recommend going to a nearby dealer. Find out if possible how this saw shop is for work that might need done in the future. How do they do on warranty work? Yes, go local if possible because if you have problems it is much better to deal with a local person.
 
Dennis hit that one right on. I love big saws & HP, but that's a hobby, not a necessity. I could cut all the fire wood I need with my 026 16" bar no problem, & I burn way more than you do. I could simply pass on the bigger trees & not need the big saws. I just enjoy the challenge sometimes, & sometimes I just plain wanna see how fast I can butcher a log. Get a saw that's comfortable to handle, light enough to run for several hours, & will last you, & you'll be a happy woodcutter. A C
 
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Right on AC. I am not so old that I do not remember having the same feelings as you. And there is just something about dropping one of those big trees and hearing that boom when they come down. lol But now I go for lighter is better.
 
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Okay, why would anyone laugh? $40.00 and 20 years. Figure that one out in dollars and you won't laugh!

On a newer saw, first try to determine what size logs you will be cutting. For example, on our place we have only a few mature trees so I simply do not need or want a large saw. The Stihl Farm Boss 290 does just fine and we also only put on a 16" bar which makes it as light as possible but still large enough to do the job we need done. I had to laugh a couple years ago when a fellow came in to cut some firewood (some of our dead ash). Oh how he bragged about his saw! It was a nice saw for sure and contrary to what he thought, I've wrestled the big saws plenty but have no intention to do so now. So which saw was better? His saw which cost $1,100.00 and it did cut faster than my saw which cost less than $300.00. As stated, it did cut faster as it should but....I simply do not need it.

For saws, I highly recommend going to a nearby dealer. Find out if possible how this saw shop is for work that might need done in the future. How do they do on warranty work? Yes, go local if possible because if you have problems it is much better to deal with a local person.

Get a saw that's comfortable to handle, light enough to run for several hours, & will last you, & you'll be a happy woodcutter. A C

Well I don't know if anyone's laughing BW but I definitely have a case of saw envy since I've been hanging around here!

In all seriousness I give the opinions here a lot of weight and you and AC express a pretty common and sensible approach. Seems like a quality saw with a 16" blade would do me fine while being reasonbly comfortable and easy to handle.
 
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