Hudson River - West Point/Sarnac Updated Auger Fix Kit - Less Jams?

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Don2222

Minister of Fire
Feb 1, 2010
9,117
Salem NH
Hello

I am working on a Hudson River Sarnac Insert stove with auger jam problems from day 1. My first find was the wave coating on the side of the auger tube.
See > > https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...what-is-this-ragged-stuff.94664/#post-1248152

When I attempted to take the auger motor off to change the motor, the set screw in the auger collar stripped. It happens! So I though I would try the Auger Fix kit for West Point and Sarnac stoves?

Now there seems to be quite some differences and maybe for the best?
The kit contains a new auger, chute, and brass bushing. A cotter pin must be purchased separately. The new chute is round unlike the old square chute with rounded corners.

So my first thought. Nice to have a cotter pin than a set screw, other stoves are starting to do that too!
The auger is different also. The shaft seems to be smaller in diameter but the blades are the same.

The auger motor shaft goes into the base of the auger and must have a hole to accept the cotter pin. No need for a collar with a set screw. I like that.

The fins at the end to push the pellets down the drop chute have also changed and maybe the older larger fins were causing more jams?

What do you guys think? Any ideas how the new chute installs into a Sarnac? Does it just lay in there and the old cover goes on top?
See pic below:
click pic to enlarge
 

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Knock on wood pellets I have never had an auger jam.

I have not seen one with the West Point either but maybe Smokey can chime in on the Sarnac?
 
I never really looked at my stove when I had the auger flight cover off to install a piece of window gasket between it and the end bracket.

I have had one auger jam (Bear error) and that was when I had a piece of a pellet bag get snagged by the auger while filling the hopper.

I also had a good auger tunneling episode when the flight got loaded up with fines.
 
Auger flights look different. Do you need to change the RPM's of the auger motor with the new one?

No, the old one is a 1 RPM auger motor so will be the new auger motor. The cotter pin is a much better idea than that tiny set screw. :) The larger spacing should prevent jams!
 
Hello

I just ordered the 1 RPM auger motor for it with the hole in the shaft. Also I just got the install instructions! The instructions say to drill the hole in the auger shaft larger and use longer screws to secure the auger cover after the new auger tube goes in! I sure hope this works!

SARANAC / WEST POINT AUGER FIX INSTRUCTIONS


TOOLS NEEDED KIT CONTENTS

Hammer New auger shaft
7/16 socket wrench Bushing
Silicone hi temp Auger housing
Phillips head screw driver


PROCEDURE

Remove cotter pin from shaft. Then proceed to remove auger motor.

Remove the auger plate and auger shaft. Keep the top bushing in place

Inside the hopper remove the auger cover.

Insert the new auger housing tube. Make sure its flush.
Note: for the WestPoint a groove will have to be ground because of rivet head
sticking up.

Slide the new auger shaft in the housing.

Replace the bottom bushing with the new bushing.

Reinstall the auger plate.

Reinstall the auger motor and connect the shaft with cotter pin. (You may to
Drill the hole slightly larger to insert cotter pin.)

Put cover back on and seal with hi temp silicone.
Note: 2 long screws may be needed to secure the auger cover
 
Hello

Well the fix kit is now ready to roll!

I ordered the 1 RPM Saranac Auger Motor with the hole in the shaft. I had to drill the auger base hole in the fix bit out to 9/64" so the saranac cotter pin would fit thru! Also got some longer screws for the auger flight chute top cover and will have to drill the holes in the new auger flight tube on site! Also had to cut the shaft of the old auger motor to remove the auger base plate for reuse!

Whew what a fix but the Hudson River Saranac will be better than new!

Click pic to Enlarge
 

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Hello

Well, The Saranac fix kit went in this morning. It is a tight fit but went in fine and longer screws were needed. Also Silicon to seal the original backer plate and original hopper cover back. Before it went in, I coated the auger and new chute with Dry Moly Spray. The moly spray does work better, it is amazing! Care must be taken not to over tighten the auger backing plate. Also it takes time for the silicon to set before use.

See pics below
 

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Hey Don2222 my westpoint is clogging like crazy any advice
Hello
Thanks for asking.
I found customers had mixed reviews on that auger fix kit. That stove is no longer supported by Hudson River. However I had some very super success on the West Point and Saranac pellet stoves with the Nylatron Bearing and a better ball bearing auger motor!
 
Thanks for the advice..... I did upgrade to the Nylatron Bearing and for some reason the stove is just very picky on pellets
I don't get, they can't be too long or too short..... they have to be just right..... the best luck I have had are the pellets from Strong Maine with the moose in rocking chairs on the bag
 
Thanks for the advice..... I did upgrade to the Nylatron Bearing and for some reason the stove is just very picky on pellets
I don't get, they can't be too long or too short..... they have to be just right..... the best luck I have had are the pellets from Strong Maine with the moose in rocking chairs on the bag
Hello
Make sure the pellets are nice and dry! If they have a high moisture content, they can jamb up any stove!
I store mine in the stove room next to the stove so they are warm and dry!!