My Woodgun doing it's thing.

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Rick, NICE. It looks like your rear door pyro sensor is located about where the center "nozzle" tube is. This is very close to the fire and I figgured that gassification happens a little farther "downstream" and deeper into the refractory area. Possibly in the 2 tubes on each side of thie center tube. What is your feeling? It may be that your 140 is a little different than my 100, or that I just don't understand what is going on in my WG:rolleyes:
 
Rick, NICE. It looks like your rear door pyro sensor is located about where the center "nozzle" tube is. This is very close to the fire and I figgured that gassification happens a little farther "downstream" and deeper into the refractory area. Possibly in the 2 tubes on each side of thie center tube. What is your feeling? It may be that your 140 is a little different than my 100, or that I just don't understand what is going on in my WG:rolleyes:

I think the gassification happens RIGHT at the nozzles.

I checked temp in the 2 tubes. The one on the left had air temp ~1000F. Rick is showing 1800F. That's a HUGE difference.

I need to figure out how to get my little thermocouple wires in the center tube through the front door. My 180 rear door bolts closed.

ac
 
avc, why not do it just like Rick just in the front door? Other than wire routing and protection...... While your drilling and tapping, provide for some kind of "standoff" to hold some BX or conduit, or both? Thinking out loud, but that can be risky after 9pm!
 
Again, very impressive, Rick.

Looks she's burning real nice for ya.
What are you feeding it?
 
The gasification pyro is in the center hot air stream. I put it in the back door so the pyro wire would be out of the way when wood is loaded. I don't know if the gases would be hotter at the other end or not. The 1800 degree number is about all the higher I have seen it. I don't know what number is needed to ger gasification.
 
Yeah thats smart. I would stick with the back door also. Never really have to open it and AC, if yours is bolted shut its even more reason.

I would bet that dead center of the tube it would be closer to 2000* but hey even 1800 is very nice.

Good stuff Rick. Thanks for sharing with us.
 
Rick, I hope I'm not a pest, but is the link I found where you got the gasification gauge and where did you score the flue gauge?
 
The gasification pyro is in the center hot air stream. I put it in the back door so the pyro wire would be out of the way when wood is loaded. I don't know if the gases would be hotter at the other end or not. The 1800 degree number is about all the higher I have seen it. I don't know what number is needed to ger gasification.
Maybe one of the scientist type will jump on here, I think that there might be different degrees of gassification, that the different gasses created burning the wood is burned at different temps, at 1800 you got to be burning about all of it! I just had my thinking wrong about where this process took place in the boiler (see post 52 by avc)
 
I'm not interested in drilling/tapping/etc right now. I'm currently just playing around with one of these:

http://www.fluke.com/fluke/usen/accessories/Temperature/80TK.htm?PID=55386

I basically just have the probe snaked in through the door. Simple and effective for now.

To get center tube, I'll just open the front door and pull the plug. Slip the little wire in, replace plug and shut the door. I just need the boiler colder to do that.

ac
 
I completely forgot about the plug! It's the thinking after 9 thing.
 
Mike, I got my pyrometers from e-bay. They are not anything special, just auto exhaust pyros. Just get one that reads low enought for the flue gas. Some will only read as low as 400 degrees. If you you want one to read gasification temps, get one that will read at least 2000 degrees.
 
I completely forgot about the plug! It's the thinking after 9 thing.

At least you can think up to 9. I can't think a dang dayo_O
 
Mike, I got my pyrometers from e-bay. They are not anything special, just auto exhaust pyros. Just get one that reads low enought for the flue gas. Some will only read as low as 400 degrees. If you you want one to read gasification temps, get one that will read at least 2000 degrees.



Thanks
 
Here is what I use most for wood. I take the box to the sawmill and they dump them in. the box is 4x4x6 ft. I have a small tractor that I set the box in the garage with. I pay $7.00 a cubic yard for the blocks.
 

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Here is what I use most for wood. I take the box to the sawmill and they dump them in. the box is 4x4x6 ft. I have a small tractor that I set the box in the garage with. I pay $7.00 a cubic yard for the blocks.

Wow, that's ~$35/cord. Awesome source!

What have you learned about gassification temps since yous started monitoring? Are they generally consistent? Range?

ac
 
Here is what I use most for wood. I take the box to the sawmill and they dump them in. the box is 4x4x6 ft. I have a small tractor that I set the box in the garage with. I pay $7.00 a cubic yard for the blocks.

Thats pretty sweet. Thats about $33 a cord. Not bad at all. What type of wood is it.
 
Your to quick for me AC
 
The wood is mixed hardwood. For firewood it oak, hard maple, beech and ash. Sometimes there will be a piece of junk wood like sycamore or soft maple but not very often.
 
Rick, you are the man.
A Wood Gun with techno toys and $35 a cord for hard wood.
Who's got it better than you?!
Man I need to find me a sawmill that will do that.
I'm fortunate to get log length for free but man do I pay for it in the long run.
 
Wow, that's ~$35/cord. Awesome source!

What have you learned about gassification temps since yous started monitoring? Are they generally consistent? Range?

ac

I came up with about 46 a cord based on a cord being 180 cubic feet if it is loose thrown. At least thats how we do it here in Maine.
 
$35 or $46 I'll take a cord of hardwood cutoffs for $50 everyday of the week.
No scrounging, no cutting, no splitting, no stacking, no problem!
 
Actually it might be better than that since its dimensional lumber, could be packed tighter than cord wood.

Would have to stack it into a solid cube of wood to find out, a cord of wood without any airspace is 80 cubic feet.
 
Actually it might be better than that since its dimensional lumber, could be packed tighter than cord wood.

Would have to stack it into a solid cube of wood to find out, a cord of wood without any airspace is 80 cubic feet.

A cord of wood with no air space is a big ass log! Making that airspace is where all the work is. ;lol
 
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