Opinions on a trailer model

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mywaynow

Minister of Fire
Dec 13, 2010
1,369
Northeast
Had a friend offer me a Parker tandem axle trailer in need of some TLC, mostly in replacing the wood deck. My research says the tandem axle should be a 6000lb rating. Is that in the realm of reality? Would that be a good option for hauling a 3000lb tractor? Also, has anyone used metal grate in lieu of wood planks for the bed? My small trailer has an aluminum deck instead of the plywood that it is designed for and I really like the results.
 
Two axle, 6000lb rating sounds about right.Haul that tractor easy

FWIW- I got a good deal on a two axle trailer, but what i thought was a quick fix to repair the brakes ended up being another $1800 to completely rebuild the brakes.
 
Two axle, 6000lb rating sounds about right.Haul that tractor easy

FWIW- I got a good deal on a two axle trailer, but what i thought was a quick fix to repair the brakes ended up being another $1800 to completely rebuild the brakes.
If it costs 1800 to replace brakes on a trailer, gas should be about $14.00 a gallon in your area ! Just sayin.
 
Go with a wood deck. Unless you have some metal laying around it will be cheaper and plenty durable if not more so than metal.
 
Sounds very expensive, you could nearly buy a new trailer for that.

This was a 26ft deckover, gooseneck. 8,000lb axles. A bearing or two, one rim, seals, all the fixings, etc. It was bit high, but not by much. But what my point was, free or cheap stuff can still cost you.
 
Had a friend offer me a Parker tandem axle trailer in need of some TLC, mostly in replacing the wood deck. My research says the tandem axle should be a 6000lb rating. Is that in the realm of reality? Would that be a good option for hauling a 3000lb tractor? Also, has anyone used metal grate in lieu of wood planks for the bed? My small trailer has an aluminum deck instead of the plywood that it is designed for and I really like the results.

Tandem axle trailers are usually 7000lb GVWR, 3500lbs on each axle. Most 16ft and under are ok hauling up to around 5K, depends on the weight of the trailer itself. Typically 1700-2000 lbs. Make sure the brakes work, most states require them on at least one axle for trailers that size. Larger trailers (over 3K GVWR) also may require an annual inspection, similar to a car, depends on your state laws.

Just totally redid brakes/hubs/bearings on my enclosed trailer, two 3500lb axles. Should run you $400-500 for a DIY if you get the parts from eTrailer.com

Regarding the decking, thick (1/8" or better) extruded aluminum, similar to what's used in some high-end livestock trailers, would be awesome stuff. I would go wood (2" roughsawn oak if it'll accept it) over expanded steel mesh any day.

LED lighting is worth it if you wind up having to do much work in that area. ;)
 
My small trailer has an aluminum deck instead of the plywood that it is designed for and I really like the results.

Metal decks are fine -- until you need to nail down some temporary wheel chocks or the like. PT boards work for me. They can be drilled, nailed into, or whatever and don't cost all that much to replace individually on an as needed basis.
 
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That you added an extra zero maybe?

I just put 2 new 6k axles under my trailer (bent the 5200lb ones). New brakes, some bearings, and seals. Also 2 new wheels and 4 new tires. Cost me about $1300.

Not sure what you're implying....

As for the rating..

Generally speaking 5 lug is a 3500lb axle, 6 lug is a 5200 or 6000lb and 8 lug is a 7000lb axle
 
Not sure what you're implying....

He is implying that you paid way too much for either parts, or parts and labor. I would have done the work myself, so $1,800 sounds way, way, way expensive just for parts. Costs less than that to replace the brakes, discs, and calipers on all 4 wheels of a car, if you are just talking about the cost of parts.

However, even with labor that sounds really expensive too.
 
$1,800 sounds way, way, way expensive just for parts.

He hired the work out.

However, even with labor that sounds really expensive too.
This was a 26ft deckover, gooseneck. 8,000lb axles. A bearing or two, one rim, seals, all the fixings, etc. It was bit high, but not by much. But what my point was, free or cheap stuff can still cost you.

Rims for 8000lb axles are not cheap (nothing is really). My dad needed one for a livestock trailer (28 ft gooseneck) and it cost near $300 (locally). Then add on the tire and it ain't hard to get over $1000 in parts like flyingcow describes just servicing 1 wheel, let alone 4.

http://www.etrailer.com/Tires-and-Wheels/Dexstar/AM20734.html
 
How many holes in the wheels?
5 hole - 3500# axle
6 hole- 6000# axle (Minimum)
 
For a wood hauler & multi use trailer. 2 3500 lb dual axles would be nice for the extra weight capacity. A 7,000 trailer will haul a green cord of most wood types.
Mine is a single axle & easy to overload with wood, so am looking to upgrade to a dual axle ;)

Sides & a ramp tail gate are real nice features to have for a wood hauler too.

100_6734.JPG Load Trlr.JPG

Load rating is combined axles max weight minus the weight of the trailer.
Neighbor & I just licensed & rated his dual axle.
Took it to a scale & got a certified total trailer weight.
Then he took that to DMV & got plates & load ratings on the registration.
 
Dave..

You are correct about the real world load rating, BUT commercial built trailers are generally not rated like that.
I just mention this because it's confusing! As far as I'm concerned, a 10k trailer should be able to haul 10,000lbs of stuff!

It'd be like buying a 6k forklift but then it can only lift 5500lbs because you have to minus the weight of the forks and boom. _g



My trailer is rated at 10k from the company that built it (Big Bubba in Utah) It's actually a 12k trailer that had 5200lb axles under it (I swapped out to 6k axles this summer). Trailer empty weighs in at around 2400lbs.
If you figure ~400lbs for the axles and tires (unpsrung weight) True real world weight rating would be around 8400lbs.
 
Nate, Fork lift ratings DO include the weight of the carriage,forks and any optional attachments such as optional booms & winches. That is why a load chart is an OSHA requirement. Plus (for a standard industrial fork) the weight rating is 24" out on the fork. For Telehandlers you have to figure in the boom length & angle also.
 
The units I use are rated "capacity with attachment" which means everything needed to have forks on the unit.
 
How many holes in the wheels?
5 hole - 3500# axle
6 hole- 6000# axle (Minimum)


I don't know if this was directed at me or not, but my GN has 8 hole rims. The 2 axles are rated for 8,000lbs each. I haven't weighed it myself, but the gentleman that built it, said it was about 4500lbs empty. I'll figure 5,000lbs to be safe. The beams are a little thinner, but taller than what you typically see on GN's. He used a lighter weight beam, but was able to keep the strength in it. So basically I can put 11,000lbs on it for a payload. But because it's a custom trailer there is no "stamp" on it signifying that it's a 16,000lb trailer.
faltbed.jpg

This is the unit. Plan on painting it this winter and put the reflective tape on it. getting it all legal. When i had the brakes done it also needed a battery with a safety disconnect on it.

Tell you how bad my memory is, i actually had 4 new rims put on it. But they weren't a bad price(for local), $70 a piece. It was one of those deals where it needed a few more things than i planned.
 
My trailer is rated at 10k from the company that built it (Big Bubba in Utah) It's actually a 12k trailer that had 5200lb axles under it (I swapped out to 6k axles this summer). Trailer empty weighs in at around 2400lbs.
If you figure ~400lbs for the axles and tires (unpsrung weight) True real world weight rating would be around 8400lbs.

Sometime the Mfg's will rate a trailer figuring in that 10% of the weight (20% for gooseneck or fifthwheels) will be riding on the tongue. So typical "5 Ton" equipment trailer might weigh 2200 lbs, and have 2 5200 lb axles under it. The axles can carry 10,400 technically and another 1040lbs on the tongue brings the total GVWR including the weight of the trailer to 11,440lbs. So if the trailer weighed 2200lbs, you'd be left with a theoretical max of 9240lbs and they might be calling that close enough. (note that excluding the unsprung weigh might get you close enough to 10K to call it.) But I would have tossed 6K axles under it too, just like you did. ;)
 
I don't know if this was directed at me or not, but my GN has 8 hole rims. The 2 axles are rated for 8,000lbs each. I haven't weighed it myself, but the gentleman that built it, said it was about 4500lbs empty. I'll figure 5,000lbs to be safe. The beams are a little thinner, but taller than what you typically see on GN's. He used a lighter weight beam, but was able to keep the strength in it. So basically I can put 11,000lbs on it for a payload. But because it's a custom trailer there is no "stamp" on it signifying that it's a 16,000lb trailer.
View attachment 86432

This is the unit. Plan on painting it this winter and put the reflective tape on it. getting it all legal. When i had the brakes done it also needed a battery with a safety disconnect on it.

Tell you how bad my memory is, i actually had 4 new rims put on it. But they weren't a bad price(for local), $70 a piece. It was one of those deals where it needed a few more things than i planned.

It wasn't aimed at anyone, I think the thread started off as being geared towards "Light" tandem axles. Many people do not know that a 5 hole wheel is only a 3500# I have had landscapers argue with me until they climb under and check the axle rating. This usually happens when they show up to pick up a skid steer with a trailer that already has a zero turn on it. I am not shy at all about telling them "You don't have trailer enough"!
 
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