Englander & OAK, think I bought the wrong stove :(

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Dec 29, 2011
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Hello,

Picked up a used Englander off of CL, looks wonderful & I was so excited to install it. Installation was going to be in the chimney of my kitchen, center chimney, 1800's house. Then I read that an OAK is needed (it's not on my other pellet stove).

There's no where to run the OAK! The chimney is centered, kitchen in front, laundry & bedrooms behind, hallways to either side. No ash dump (1800's fireplace) for OAK to go through.

Can it go up the chimney? I anticipated putting in a 3" insulated liner, not sure if another will fit, or if it's wise to put them both in the same flue - won't the OAK just suck in the exhaust then? Any advice would be welcome.

Can't wait to explain to my husband what I've done now..
 
there is piping with the oak built in.
someone will be able to post the name of the company.
i'm not sure how long a run can be used. but it seems a good possibility for a solution.
it's not cheap from what i hear.

*Selkirk Direct-Temp. i think that's it.

yeah. but the long runs may not be workable.
here's a quote from an experienced board member -
I like the Pellet vent Pro, but many here thinl it leaks like mad. Only one of my 3 Pellet vent Pro systems leak and didnt take much in the way of fixing it...

That said, if I ever buy any pipe again, I would buy the Selkirk Direct Temp. Kills 2 birds with one stone. Its a large diameter pipe, so it looks like a real woodstove flue (I would definitely have a 3-5 ft rise to show it off), and it preheats the incoming air into the OAK (which makes someone more apt to use an OAK if the venting already has it).

The downside (what some say) is that the incoming air on the outside of the vent, will cool the hot flue gas on the inside. This has some truth to it. So I prob wouldnt use it in an outdoor application or in really long runs. But for your standard installs that are Direct vent and installs with interior rises of 3-6 ft, it wouldn't effect it at all.

Many happy users of it.. Its pricey. But a higher quality product will demand more in the market. (I.E: Harman ;))
 
thanks, smoke :)
 
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Ok, let's see if I have this...

There's no problem running the OAK up the chimney along with the vent (I was wondering how inserts handled this!). Can't use pipe, must be flexible, there's a small jog in the flue. So (1) flexible vent pipe 3", insulated and (1) OAK 2" will be fine (if they fit!).

Any problems foreseen with an approximately 25' flue?

Guessing there's a special topper I can buy to hold them up at the top, or do they both have separate little cappy things at the top like the liner does and just kind of sit there next to each other? We do have a large piece of slate at the top that I was hoping to leave there and just have the cap(s) fitting next to each other.

Thanks so much!
 
I have an Englander 25 PDVC in my basement that I connected to my chimney with 6" stovepipe. My chimney has a good draft and I don't use a OAK. The stove runs better now than it ever did when it was direct vent and had an OAK. Isn't the whole purpose of an OAK to create a draft for a direct vent installation? I put a 3" to 6" increaser on the stove, connected a 90 with a cleanout, striaght pipe up to a 90 into my thimble. Works great. I don't think the OAK is needed if it's not going into a fireplace.
 
I`ve seen at least 3 other Englanders running just fine without an OAK.
The stove maker and probably most building codes require it and although mine has one , if it had been a hard to do situation I`d not worry about not having one.
 
Englander requires to OAK for a "safe" install. You can get outside air from within the chimney flue if you modify the cap or punch a hole into the floor and run across to the sill OR take the air from the basement perhaps if you create some makeup air vents. It can be done, I have done it a lot for customers.
 
Englander requires to OAK for a "safe" install. You can get outside air from within the chimney flue if you modify the cap or punch a hole into the floor and run across to the sill OR take the air from the basement perhaps if you create some makeup air vents. It can be done, I have done it a lot for customers.

Punching a hole in the floor is a nope, there's a 8 inch thick piece of slate as the bottom of the fireplace. Do you know anywhere online that explains how to get the outside air from within the flue? That sounds like the simplest way to do this. I'm guessing just running the OAK up into the flue a few feet and calling that good? The vent (insulated flex) will be up another 20-25', not sure if this would be a problem, but as I know the chimney is not airtight I cannot imagine we would be sucking too much exhaust back down.

And the truth is, the house is 200+ years old. It leaks. Like a sieve. I want it to be a "safe" install (we need to have a permit-install per insurance), but I don't think it's really going to be unsafe without the OAK, just maybe not as efficient.
 
Lots of memebrs have run a Flex 3" pipe up the chimney. Search it and you will find it.....

Englanders require an OAK to be Mandatory. If an Englander does not have an OAK and there is a problem (God forbid) then your insurance is likely not to pay. If its optional, thats one thing. But its Mandatory.

It will run fine without it. Yes... Its not required for draft, although in the event of a power outage, it will allow the smoke to naturally vent . That and Englanders are NOT to be Direct vent. They also require a Mandatory 3 ft rise...

Did you get rid of a stove?? Or do you have 4 stoves in your house now??? (Jealous guy right here ;))
 
.

Did you get rid of a stove?? Or do you have 4 stoves in your house now??? (Jealous guy right here ;))

Just look at your sig,Dex,and you will get over the jealousy of the OP possibly having 4 stoves :)
 
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Adding the Englander and maybe one more. :cool: Never turned on the oil monster last winter, and I intend to never turn it on again - no matter the weather! And with a sprawling 200+ year farmhouse there are lots of littler nooks & crannies that just need their own heat source. I like to be WARM!

Off to do more searching, I think I'm pretty slow with figuring these things out - I just can't visualize how it will work inside the chimney!
 
Run a 3" flex liner up the. Chimney and extend the OAK up 12" past the exhaust. Or some have used metal exhaust tubing and made a big U putting the U going down the side of the chimney.

I will do a search myself.
 
go to my website www.englanderstoves.com and locate the "manuals" section, look up the manual for the 25-PI insert there are drawings in that manual which would give you an idea of what to do. if this doesnt get you straight drop me an e mail (see sig line below use summer e mail addy) so we can discuss it. i'll get you straight
 
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momof2-one of the reason's so many members here have englander stoves is because of the excellent customer service provided online-over the phone,and right here on this forum......stoveguy2esw has helped so many customers,and if I was currently in the market,I would have no hesitation getting an Englander....Mike will help get you fixed up right....lots of forum members will attest to that!
 
go to my website www.englanderstoves.com and locate the "manuals" section, look up the manual for the 25-PI insert there are drawings in that manual which would give you an idea of what to do. if this doesnt get you straight drop me an e mail (see sig line below use summer e mail addy) so we can discuss it. i'll get you straight
I know its been said before, but where else can you get the guy right from the manufacturer to help you out with a question?? Right here of course!! How cool is that?
 
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I know its been said before, but where else can you get the guy right from the manufacturer to help you out with a question?? Right here of course!! How cool is that?

I firmly believe that many frustrations can get relieved if more manufacturers followed his stoveguy2esw's lead. Probably end up with more business too and happier users
 
you guys are too kind.

i agree though , i wish more folks in my end of the industry would hang out in here and to be honest there are a couple that do. it DOES help business to have a favorable reputation in here to me thats a freeby cause i do this for the fun of it. i like what i do. the guy though who deserves the credit IMHO is craig, cause if webbie didnt give us this place to do what we do, the hearth world would be a lesser place.

you guys think about the questions you yourself have answered. it matters to the poor fellow who didnt know what to do, i just work for a stove manufacturer and it makes it look like im in here to support my company, actually im just like you guys, i enjoy it, i know stuff and i like to kibbitz about it. but dont think for a minute i dont enjoy the occasional kudos i am human and i do see that my being here has elevated my products and im thankful for that even though its "sauce for the goose" and not just a "marketing gimmick". thanks guys
 
Hi Mike, We all appreciate your input. just picked up a 25 off CL. bit ruff around the edges. I haven't had time to go through it yet. Figured I would just replace the lower auger, gasket set. I can't make out the date on it though as the stamping was real bad. Looks like the newer units have a sealed bearing cups vs the open on this one in the various motors. May have been a good deal or maybe not, time will tell.
 
Hi Mike, We all appreciate your input. just picked up a 25 off CL. bit ruff around the edges. I haven't had time to go through it yet. Figured I would just replace the lower auger, gasket set. I can't make out the date on it though as the stamping was real bad. Looks like the newer units have a sealed bearing cups vs the open on this one in the various motors. May have been a good deal or maybe not, time will tell.

e mail me the serial number and i'll look it up can get serial and if origional customer ever contacted us some history on the unit, send it to the "stoveguyat yahoo addy
 
Got it in (a while ago, actually) and just wanted to send out a big THANK YOU!! for all your help. It's running wonderfully, was an easy install and my kitchen is so much warmer.The inspector said it was a great install and had no concerns. Just need to spray those pipes a nice flat black and it will be perfect. Thanks again!!!

Of course, the family expects me to cook now. _g
35008_10151188906684107_1437644985_n.jpg *grumble grumble*
 
Congratulations!........With all of those stoves in your sig, you may be the leading cause of global warming. That stove puts out some nice heat. Enjoy!
 
Here's the harman cap I'm installing ..pulls combustion air in from the sides
 

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