I rarely replace any parts on a secondary tube style stove. When operated properly, their tubes last longer than a Cat.
Dutchwest by-pass help
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raybonz
Minister of Fire
It is the overfire air used to start wood fires and burn coal.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...O8leLn_YX6npYpw&bvm=bv.41524429,d.dmQ&cad=rja
See page 14..
Ray
raybonz
Minister of Fire
I looked at the new CDW's and they looked well made but ultimately decided that I wanted a secondary burn stove and liked the features of the T5 and have been happy with this choice so far..Oh I guess I just get these urges occasionally. I jump in and out of several forums and I always find them very informative.
Actually I was thinking of getting a new large CDW, but I've had so much luck with this one I decided to stay with it for now. It got down to 0 deg. and I was able to keep my furnace from turning on. (set for 69). I have a magic heat on it as well so that also helps a lot.
Ray
imacheezhead
Member
I just want to make one thing clear. I don't just open the door and walk away from it. I watch it very closely and when the CAT gets up to temperature, (steelcat is very, very fast btw) I close the door. I've just always had better luck doing it this way. The loading door vent is just too pokey and causes a new fire to generate too much smoke.
After about 6 hours my CAT temp was down to 500
and I put in some wood, opened the bottom door for about 5 minutes, closed the door and within 15 minutes it's up to 1375. Works great!I' m glad you found what works best. That steel cat does fire fast! I have the same cat in my Webster Oak.I just want to make one thing clear. I don't just open the door and walk away from it. I watch it very closely and when the CAT gets up to temperature, (steelcat is very, very fast btw) I close the door. I've just always had better luck doing it this way. The loading door vent is just too pokey and causes a new fire to generate too much smoke.
After about 6 hours my CAT temp was down to 500
imacheezhead
Member
raybonz
Minister of Fire
imacheezhead
Member
I'm gonna restart to see if that helps. It keeps saying acrobat is running and needs to be closed.
Wow! I've just joined this forum and am glad to find more CDW 264 owners... I was afraid I was alone. I've had mine since '91. Ray's right - experience is needed to "tweak" the most out of these stoves. I started "cheating" by opening the ash door after I discovered it by accident. I typically run to the basement to stoke the beast early each morning... I open the bypass - count to 10 - open the side door and stuff it full with new wood. Just a few coals left. Close the side door, shake the grates and then open the ash door - pull out the ash pan and walk out to the garden to empty. When I get back it is already got flames and beginning to warm. I put the ash pan back in and close the door. Open the overfire air damper to about 3 turns - wait 20 minutes - thermometer is at 5 -600, close bypass damper, close overfire to 1.5 turns and let her rip for the next 6 -8 hours. When the thermometer starts dropping below 800 I open her up and add a few splits.
I discovered the ash door one morning when I forgot to close it while I emptied the ashes!
My dear old stove is in pieces right now... I discovered a crack between the bypass damper and the cat. I had it welded last week - I'm praying it holds. I'm putting it back together slowly - with lots of stove cement, gaskets and TLC.
I'm making a modification as I reassemble my stove - I am wrapping copper tubing through the air cavities. When I finish I will post a thread. The goal is to use the stove as a backup to my solar water heater.
Good luck with your stove, treat her kindly and she will reward you with warmth.
raybonz
Minister of Fire
Good luck with the CDW weld Joe and welcome to the forum! I no longer use a CDW decided it was time to replace the old girl..
Ray
imacheezhead
Member
You pretty much do what I do except I usually don't do anything with the air dampers. If the CAT is working correctly and it's up to temperature you should just be able to close everything off completely except the CAT air damper. I usually just leave that open about 1/4".
It sounds like you're converting it into a boiler of sorts.
I completely dissassembled my stove about 10 years ago and re-cemented and re-gasketed everything and its been working great ever since. One year I burned willow and that was a disaster!
Wanna see my video? Check out . Its in 3 parts. You shouldn't have any trouble finding the 2 addl. parts.
imacheezhead
Member
I guess I need to get on a computer forum. I can open other PDFs but not this one. Strange.
raybonz
Minister of Fire
All the link is the pdf manual for pre-1990 CDW stove. Easy to find this manual online.. I gave the original stove manual to the the new owner when I sold the stove..
Ray
imacheezhead
Member
I have the manual that came with the stove. I was just curious to see if the one you had was different. It bothers me that I can't open your link that's all.
Not that it really matters, but I found in the manual were it shows the air control on the ashpan door, and it's purpose.
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imacheezhead
Member
Actually it does matter. Before I saw your picture I started using the side air damper and it actually does work quite well, so I may keep on doing it that way. I just want to mention that the only time I open any air damper is to get the combuster up to temperature and then everything is closed off. I do have an open mind (sometimes), Thanks for your advice!
raybonz
Minister of Fire
Actually it does matter. Before I saw your picture I started using the side air damper and it actually does work quite well, so I may keep on doing it that way. I just want to mention that the only time I open any air damper is to get the combuster up to temperature and then everything is closed off. I do have an open mind (sometimes), Thanks for your advice
imacheezhead
Member
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I often wondered about that too. If you saw my video you probably noticed I wasn't too specific where the air is coming from. I just think that there always will be some leaks even though I re-cemented and re-gasketed everything. Some air may be supplied via the combustor vent. One thing to keep in mind is that a smoldering dirty fire is what the combustor feeds on. The more smoke the better. If the fire gets to much air, the amount of smoke will be reduced and cutting back on the amount of heat the combustor produces as well as burning more fuel. I can feed the fire before bedtime and unless it's VERY cold outside, the stove will keep the furnace from turning on in the morning and the stove will be full of beautiful embers allowing me to rebuild the fire again before my coffee is ready.
The bypass handle on my DutchWest has gotten exceedingly hard to turn, either open or close. I cannot see a problem when I remove the top and look inside, but there clearly is one. It is so bad I am thinking of getting another woodstove, but I really like this one so would prefer to fix it. Any suggestions?
I am assuming its an old dwest? They make an upgrade kit for it. The old style bypass rod screws into the inner top, the new one is a pin that passes through, this prevents it from seizing up like the old one.
Yes, my house was built about 1992 and I think it was new at that point. Who is "they" that makes the upgrade kit?
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