The positives of NOT having an OAK.

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Well I didnt mean to excite you. While I'm seriously considering adding an OAK to my system as well, being on this site has given me a better understanding, all the while adding to more questions. For example, Quadrafire stoves do not come with a sealed intake system. So how can one determine how much the stove is pulling from the OAK versus the immediate room air? And by cutting a 3 inch diameter hole to the outside, am I now introducing more cold air than the stove needs; thereby cooling the house?

I noticed a difference in the temp in the house when I added mine it was warmer even my wife made the comment that it seemed warmer. It took a little bit of effort with silicone to seal everything up, but I would say 95%+ air is coming from the OAK. I am not familiar with your quad stove the classic bay base basically sucks up air so you seal it with silicone along with some spots behind the burn chamber, and random holes in the base for assembly and your good to go. The only spot I could not do is the trap door pull lever and access panel to the burn pot. They are pretty small though. Before I sealed it up and just had the OAK you could feel air being sucked through the pipe it was working without being sealed up pretty well, not sure if the sealing really did anything. Most air comes from the path of least resistance the OAK.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DexterDay
It's been answered, but most people have a vent in the room of the furnace/boiler, so the draft only occurs in that room.

I don't plan on ever hooking a OAK to my boiler because I don't want the -40* air hitting all my components head on. (Boiler has it's own room and fresh air supply)

Considering an OAK also but I have the same concern as we get those minus 35* to minus 40*s also. What impact would this very cold air have on the stove or its operation? Any chance of this lowering the temp of outgoing gases/air and creating creosote in chimney?
 
My OAK is saving me almost a half a bag a day and really cut the draft coming from upstairs.
 
I am an advocate of OAK for pellet stoves. In my research recently I came across a concern with respect to OAK in extreme cold environments.
Let me start by explaining that wood does not burn! The vapors released by wood when it is heated is what burns and the heat from the burning vapors causes the release of more vapors. This process is referred to as gasification. The concern that I encountered is that if extremely cold air is induced into a fire it may reduce or interfere with gasification. The recommendation was to make the OAK long enough to temper the incoming air. An alternative is to blend the outside air with inside air during periods of extreme cold. An adjustable damper on a Tee would make that easy to accomplish.
I can't give you any hard numbers on temperatures or length of pipe to temper the incoming air. Like most things some rational judgment is required.
Perhaps somebody with more knowledge in this area can offer some details.
 
Great info. This kind of confirms my concerns. Will wait till the spring to re-visit this issue.....minus 33* right now... lol. I am not even sure my stove can accommodate an OAK. I just has a hole at the bottom of the the back plate but does not connect to anything.
 
I have an oak in my house, my wife had a dog door installed while I was in a fishing trip this summer. :/
Talk about an airleak!
 
The savings are proportional to the heat loss prevented and can be estimated to some degree once you know the lowest combustion air flow rate which is usually around 80% of the rated CFM of the blower and don't mind a little estimation.

The loss is a fraction of a pound of pellets per hour and can easily reach a 1/4 to 1/2 bag per day once heating season is really under way. You have to get down the the actual stove's efficiency and combustion air flow per day and the actual pellet being burned to nail it any closer than that.
Hey Smokey,

I heard on the news, parts of Maine today getting a blizzard, do you got plenty of beer on hand?==c
 
Cold air burns better it is more density, more oxygen.
I had all of the formulas and everything and was going to post them with my proof a couple of days ago making this same point. In my research though I found that MANY studies found more advantage with preheaters. I was very surprised but it is the truth. I will post my readings later today when I get to my office computer.
 
Hey Smokey,

I heard on the news, parts of Maine today getting a blizzard, do you got plenty of beer on hand?==c

The blizzard bulletin is for areas east of me these days, at one time it would have mattered to me. Currently it is snowing (fine easy to blow around stuff) and windy here, it will be a good day to stay inside and make all you folks grimace ;).
 
Considering an OAK also but I have the same concern as we get those minus 35* to minus 40*s also. What impact would this very cold air have on the stove or its operation? Any chance of this lowering the temp of outgoing gases/air and creating creosote in chimney?

The primary caution on using an OAK at those temperatures is the possibility of a too lean a burn (not a chance of generating 'sote that way) and thus loss of fire. This would be in essence a setup issue with a pellet eater. Setup done in warm weather and too close to the line with no subsequent fine adjustments (feed trim or air trim).

I've burned down to -18::F using hi/low mode on a stove with zero fine draft or feed control adjustment without any issues.

ETA: Beckett makes mention of this in the setup information for Oil fired systems as one of two concerns with heating system setup in locations with with frequent or extreme cold weather. They address both outside air and oil flow issues. They specifically mention the possible loss of flame because the setup was done in warm conditions.
 
The downside to not having an OAK is EVERY TIME there is the slightest problem with the stove, the first thing everyone will say is...."Oh, you need an OAK!"
Even if I overcook a rib roast, its probably because of a lack of an OAK!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jack Morrissey
  • Like
Reactions: SmokeyTheBear
Horrible wind, pine trees really bending. Blowing snow, some activity at the bird feeder. Dogs curled up on their beds. Roast and veggies in the slow cooker. Stove is loaded. Good day to make out my seed order. Wife is at me trying to motivate me to finish a repair project!
 
Horrible wind, pine trees really bending. Blowing snow, some activity at the bird feeder. Dogs curled up on their beds. Roast and veggies in the slow cooker. Stove is loaded. Good day to make out my seed order. Wife is at me trying to motivate me to finish a repair project!

I'll be good and not tell her where you hid the skillets.
 
  • Like
Reactions: save$
Wife is at me trying to motivate me to finish a repair project![/quote]

My wife is after me to paint the downstairs bathroom. Just don't feel like it. Wind is blowing pretty good out there. Nice and warm in here though.
 
  • Like
Reactions: save$
Status
Not open for further replies.