I can't believe this broke my splitter

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Let me clear this up.
I DID NOT BREAK IT THIS TIME.
My friend/co-owner broke it.
That's his back yard and all his wood.

I still can't believe that us what broke it.
For all I know, the bolts sheared with out him knowing
And then tried to split that little crotch.

Who knows, who cares.
We are getting it fixed and moving on.
 
I'll throw my two cents in FWIW. I've found that the cylinders that have the wedge attached to them (instead of a flat plate) don't get exposed to the sideways and twisting stresses as badly. Have you considered making a wedge to attach to your ram instead of the flat push plate, and putting the plate on the stationary end of the splitter?

Also, have you considered shortening the ram up by an inch or two and reusing it? Have it machined to re-install the clevis and be done with it......not sure how your specific machine limits the retraction, just throwing an idea to help you save a little money.....
 
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Scott.
Thanks for the possible considerations.
We are getting it fixed for $50.
I think modifying it to have the wedge and push block reverse would be very costly.
There was a hairline crack where the wedge was mounted and I tore that off over the summer!!!!
I had a professional weld it back on and add some structural web stiffners.

Never using any other type of splitter, I really like the way this operates.
I've seen videos of the ram wedge type and sometimes it has to cycle all the way back to push a split off that didn't fully split.
With mine if it doesn't fully split I just drop another piece in and let that push the other one all the way through.

BTW. How'd did the living room turn out?
Got a link to the completed project?
 
I love the last picture of you pointing. Looks like you are saying "Bad dog! You've been a bad boy!"
 
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I love the last picture of you pointing. Looks like you are saying "Bad dog! You've been a bad boy!"

LOL. YOU ACTUALLY MADE ME LAUGH OUT LOUD THAT WAS FUNNY
That's my friend and he was saying BAD CROTCH! BAD CRITCH!
 
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BTW. How'd did the living room turn out?
Got a link to the completed project?
Mike, its nearly complete. had to take some time away from it, started dealing with some other things and needed to take a short break from it but I'm firing on all cylinders again. I'll make sure to do a thread on the completed room when i get it finished. Should be done around Easter weekend.
 
My two cents!
Make a new plate, that is wider than the beam, Plus the width of two spacers ( one on each side) same thickness as web of the beam. Make two small plates( one for each side) that will fit under beam. Drill thru top plate and spacers, tap smaller plate ,then bolt from top down into bottom plate !Now you will move the force to tensile strength.
Something like this pic.
log-splitter-horizontal-a1.jpg
 
Those tree knotches are super tough.Imagine the strength needed to keep the tree from splitting in high wind. I jammed a 30 ton splitter on those things a dozen times. Best thing to do is split the outside quarters and let that nuclear core alone.
 
My two cents!
Make a new plate, that is wider than the beam, Plus the width of two spacers ( one on each side) same thickness as web of the beam. Make two small plates( one for each side) that will fit under beam. Drill thru top plate and spacers, tap smaller plate ,then bolt from top down into bottom plate !Now you will move the force to tensile strength.
Something like this pic.
log-splitter-horizontal-a1.jpg

Thats a great idea. I will look into that. That should be an easy adaptation.
 
The clevis is in the center of the push block.
I don't think that there is a lot of leverage.

The taller OR wider you make the push plate, the larger the potential for additional leverage. It just physics, nothing more.

If you have a mis-shaped log and it physically contacts the upper left hand corner of the push plate would you rather have that contact area 3 inches from center or 6 inches (doubling the leverage).

And if it is an option - I 100% agree with Sean. A redesign of the shuttle could fix all that ails this machine.

There isn't many on the market that is more powerful than this beast - and I have no trouble with the shuttle for weakness. Notice the design.
elm3.jpg

Also - see the wiki link in my sig for a blow by blow on shuttle design.
 
I got the piston back from the machine shop.
He drilled the end out, tapped it and threaded a stud in. He also pinned it through the chrome shaft.
I have the clevis seated right up against the shaft to help resist any stress in the threaded shaft.

s1.jpgs2.jpgs4.jpgs5.jpg
 
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Looks a lot nicer than my welding would have.
Got to admire a man who knows how to use his tools.
 
Yeah he is good. I can't wait to throw some wood at it.
To bad I split everything I have and it's at my friends house.
He still has around 10 cord to split. I hope he doesn't have any more petrified crotchs left.

I need to get more wood!!!
 
Yeah he is good. I can't wait to throw some wood at it.
To bad I split everything I have and it's at my friends house.
He still has around 10 cord to split. I hope he doesn't have any more petrified crotchs left.

I need to get more wood!!!
Is there a torque spec on the cylinder cap? I can imagine that if you tighten the rod ends too tight it could cause breakage.
 
BACK IN BUSINESS

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they gun drilled the ram?... I would expect it to break at the bottom of the hole..... the rod should have been turned down and threads rolled on... IMHO
 
they gun drilled the ram?... I would expect it to break at the bottom of the hole..... the rod should have been turned down and threads rolled on... IMHO

Maybe, maybe not, but if I did turn down the rod, then it would be to short and return into the cylinder past the wiper seal.
Unless, there is some way to put a stop in the back of the cylinder.
 
the butt end of the clevis and the pressure relief would serve that function...
 
the butt end of the clevis and the pressure relief would serve that function...
Duh! True, true.
Next time, but hopefully there won't be a next time. :)
 
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