insert for an old Heatalator fireplace

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

mik_kane

Feeling the Heat
Dec 14, 2012
274
NEPA Poconos
I have searched the site for people that have installed inserts in old fireplaces that have Heatalator boxes installed and have seen what they have done. It seems that you have to cut the damper open to get the chimney liner in. I have seen some inserts that have the flue on the top of the stove. My damper is towards the rear of the box and I do not think it can make the bend to connect the flue. Do they make an adapter for such a thing or should I be looking for a certain stove that would make a better connection to the flue pipe? The height of the opening is 26 1/2" and it slopes down in the back. I am not looking for a big insert since I have a pellet stove in the basement just want one that will heat about 1000 sq ft when the power goes out or just to take the chill off on a really cold days. I do have an old Quaker Moravian insert there now that does a good job.
 
Do you have a masonry chimney or a metal chimney? Technically, Heatalator is a brand of zero clearance fireplace with a metal chimney but it sounds like you have a masonry fireplace. Sometimes you do need to cut out the damper area with a torch to be able to get the liner through. If you have the air tubes in the upper inside of the fireplace then usually the center one at least needs to be cut out too. Any of these modificaltions make it unusable as a regualr fireplace again. You would usually use a flexable liner to go from the top of the insert through the fireplace throat. If the insert is flat on top, you need an adapter that srews on to the top of the insert. These usually are made so the chimney liner attaches to them at about a 30 degree angle so it starts out towards the back of the fireplace.
 
Do you have a masonry chimney or a metal chimney? Technically, Heatalator is a brand of zero clearance fireplace with a metal chimney but it sounds like you have a masonry fireplace. Sometimes you do need to cut out the damper area with a torch to be able to get the liner through. If you have the air tubes in the upper inside of the fireplace then usually the center one at least needs to be cut out too. Any of these modificaltions make it unusable as a regualr fireplace again. You would usually use a flexable liner to go from the top of the insert through the fireplace throat. If the insert is flat on top, you need an adapter that srews on to the top of the insert. These usually are made so the chimney liner attaches to them at about a 30 degree angle so it starts out towards the back of the fireplace.


It is a masonry chimney. There are no vents on the front of the opening, they are on the side, mason left a brick with holes in it where the vents should be. The handle for the damper said Heatalator.
Would you know where I can find this adapter?
 
Most inserts outlet is on the top at the back of the insert. I installed a Summit in my old heatform/heatilator whichever it is, and cut enough of the old steel out to get flex right down into then out(with a connector adapter). I only used 5' of flex and double wall insulated rigid the rest of the way.
 
Most inserts outlet is on the top at the back of the insert. I installed a Summit in my old heatform/heatilator whichever it is, and cut enough of the old steel out to get flex right down into then out(with a connector adapter). I only used 5' of flex and double wall insulated rigid the rest of the way.

So you have to cut a lot out of the metal box to make it work. Thanks
 
Yeap, the metal box is actually 2 metal boxes. An inner shell and an outer shell. Angle grinder & sawzall with lots of blades. I'll see if I can dig up the post where I posted photos of my demolition.
Here ya go for reference.
I tore out an old Fuego Flame pc of shat. Then cut out enough of the old steel firebox at top to allow the liner to drop straight down to the insert.

Here is a link to the post with some photos. If you need help, just hollar.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...s-a-new-summit-in-town-demo-prep-photos.4162/
 
Yeap, the metal box is actually 2 metal boxes. An inner shell and an outer shell. Angle grinder & sawzall with lots of blades. I'll see if I can dig up the post where I posted photos of my demolition. Here ya go for reference. I tore out an old Fuego Flame pc of shat. Then cut out enough of the old steel firebox at top to allow the liner to drop straight down to the insert.

If I remember correctly the masonry flue was almost behind the box. there was flat part that I think was to catch whatever water came into the flue. That is why I was asking about an adapter or a stove with and angle outlet because I have a feeling the flue liner will not make the bend even for the 30 degree adapter box.
 
how about a 45 degree elbow?
 
If I remember correctly the masonry flue was almost behind the box. there was flat part that I think was to catch whatever water came into the flue. That is why I was asking about an adapter or a stove with and angle outlet because I have a feeling the flue liner will not make the bend even for the 30 degree adapter box.
There are inserts with a 45 degree sloped back such as the Avalon Pendlton which comes with a flat top or a 45 degree angled back.
 
Altera can have different flue attachment points. Had a similar situation and had the heatilor cut by a welder and stuffed the plenum with roxul.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.