Buy the best and only cry once?

[lukem]

Other than a washer and dryer that were not in the house when we bought it (i.e., it was a foreclosure), the next thing that was ordered was the ZTR. I knew before we even bought this house that I did NOT want to mow grass all weekend. Was looking at mowers and tractors years before we even bought this house while we were "just looking".

Don't have an angle grinder yet, but could probably use my Dremel with the same process. Bought the bench grinder because it is something I have wanted. Going to give the blades a go with the bench grinder and see how it goes. If it is a PITA, I will try the Dremel. If that is a PITA, I will buy an angle grinder and give that a shot.

A Dremel would fail miserably on my 1/4" thick high carbon blades. I wouldn't hold out much hope, but worth a shot.

 

[DexterDay]

I

Dex,

How do you like those Focuses? We have a 2010 SES in red with a manual trans and we really like it. Taught my wife to drive stick on it since it is mainly her car. Boy has this thread drifted. lol

I commute about 60 miles (one way) to work and i get about 34-36 mpg using all Royal Purple synthetics (trans, power steering, oil, etc). They are 2011 (bought both same day) Both are SES w/ sync. Had i known they were gonna redesign the body, I would have waited. But its a good car and gets the job done.

 

[lukem]

That pic was after a fresh wash and it was only a couple months old. I went from my 52" Craftsman rider (5 hrs or so) to the Cub Cadet 54" Zero turn (3 hrs), to the Dixie 74" deck (1 hr). Notice my wifes car is clean (washed it also), while my car stays dirty.

Its "rated" at 6-8 acres an hour. I can do all 4 in an hour and I have numerous obstacles (trees, garden, pond, garage, barn, shed, flower islands, etc). So flat land. It could do.6 all day long, no doubt.... Says it all right on the back "Worlds Fastest lawn mower"

That said. Any commercial unit is nice and FAST! My buddies Hustler is a bad @ss machine! I almost went with a Grass Hopper, (my next door neighbor has one) but I got a good deal on the Dixie and any parts in the future. Compared to a rider, the time saved is astounding.

View attachment 97964

We had a couple 72" Dixies'...one gas and one diesel and they could knock out flat areas in no time. My yard is "flat" but it is far from "even" so I decided to go with a 60"...I also have a few tight areas that 72" is too large for.

I have a Bad Boy. I know they aren't exactly name brand machines, but they are well built with some quality components (Parker, Hydrogear, Kawasaki). So far, all good.

 

[fabsroman]

Get yourself a tormek -- you'll have the sharpest lawnmower blades in town. And it's pretty handy for kitchen knives.

lol - I saw that Tormek grinder on the Sears website and thought it was a tape dispenser. Did not even bother to click on it. That thing looks awesome for sharpening blades, knives, etc. If I remember correctly, it was a little pricey though. Going to add it to my wish list.

 

[lukem]

I can buy a LOT of blades for the price of a Tormek. That's one of those thing that, while it looks top of the line and I would use it, I would rather not have that much $ tied up in a tool.

 

[fabsroman]

I can buy a LOT of blades for the price of a Tormek. That's one of those thing that, while it looks top of the line and I would use it, I would rather not have that much $ tied up in a tool.

Yeah, $470 for the 8" stone and $800 for the 10" stone. Me, I am debating buying one after next tax season. Would probably go with the 8" stone. Don't know why I would ever need the 10" one.

I think blades for my mower are around $80 a set, so it would take 8 sets of blades before the Tormek would pay for itself. I can probably find a lot of other things to sharpen though. It would be nice for the hatchets and ax, not to mention wood chisels, etc.

 

[lukem]

I'll stick with my $14.99 HF angle grinder and get my money back on 1/2 of the first blade.

 

[gmule]

To me tools are money. Every time I fix something I am paying myself back for the purchase.
There are a few tools that I think quality matters. Multi meters, torque wrenches, drill motors, measuring equipment like calipers and dial indicators and tools that I am likely to use at least once a week. A pro level saw will save your body and time.
If I can save some cash by buying a tool that is made for different companies I can go that route too. I'll use my Muryama / Dolmar/ Makita saw as an example.

 

[DexterDay]

We had a couple 72" Dixies'...one gas and one diesel and they could knock out flat areas in no time. My yard is "flat" but it is far from "even" so I decided to go with a 60"...I also have a few tight areas that 72" is too large for.

I have a Bad Boy. I know they aren't exactly name brand machines, but they are well built with some quality components (Parker, Hydrogear, Kawasaki). So far, all good.

My Dixie Dealer also sells Bad Boys and Ferris. All of them are very nice machines

If i got the Bad Boy, I would have to get the Spoiler for the back It just looks sweet with it on there.

 

[mikefrommaine]

Yeah, $470 for the 8" stone and $800 for the 10" stone. Me, I am debating buying one after next tax season. Would probably go with the 8" stone. Don't know why I would ever need the 10" one.

I think blades for my mower are around $80 a set, so it would take 8 sets of blades before the Tormek would pay for itself. I can probably find a lot of other things to sharpen though. It would be nice for the hatchets and ax, not to mention wood chisels, etc.

I have the t-7. Prices have gone up a bit since I bought. But it is what I consider a lifetime tool. And something my son will probably have for his lifetime as well. There are cheaper ways to put a good edge on a blade. But for someone that doesn't have a lot of time or patience to learn hand sharpening the tormek is the way to go. I don't really need to be able to slice paper with my hatchet. But I can now

I work with some hacks that use a belt sander to sharpen a chisel. Should have seen them when I showed them what a sharp chisel can do. And as a bonus it's a crossover tool -- the wife is very happy with sharp knives. I think grizzly sells one now that is basically a copy of the tormek but the reviews haven't been great. And the quality of the stone is questionable.

 

[MasterMech]

$700+ blade grinders seem like overkill but I love mine (would have to go look again to remember the name.... ) and it saves me a load of time, which for me, is money. But if it's not handy, the vise/angle grinder would be my next choice. I can do nice work with that setup.

Dex, spoiler, really?

 

[OldLumberKid]

funny you say single malt been looking to try some.$$$$ even more than my fancy beer.Don't know where to start


and of course

Cheers

I don't partake anywhere near as much as I used to, so I am out of touch with what's good right now, but all of the following can be counted on as good representative drams.

Well for a place to start it's hard to go wrong with Macallan 12, and branch out from there. It's tons of quality and rich flavor of whiskey aged in old sherry casks, for the buck it tastes like something way more expensive than it is— way beyond the vapid Glenfiddichs and and their ilk.

Macallan also tends to stay pretty consistent from year to year.

The regular original Glenmorangie is another good starting point and good value. Clynelish 14 is another favorite that's great value, but a little hard to find. I liked Highland Park a lot (and Orkeny whisky), but it's gotten really expensive recently and the 12 yr-old that used to be good value was all sold out and it's now into vintages I haven't tasted, so could not say.

Oban is another great tasting single malt, but for some reason it's the only one that gives me headaches with even a small amount. Pity cos I liked that one a lot.

My personal favorite is Royal Lochnagar, but dadgum difficult to find on this side of the pond.

These whiskies are much like good quality saws Dolmar, Husky, Jonsered, Stihl — but the saws and whisky should never ever be mixed, of course.

 

[OldLumberKid]

Just like bikes, you need a backup for the backup's backup to the backup. Then you need your main ride. I even have backup frames and components. Have to be able to ride when I want to.

Looks like a mighty fine stable of horses there, just waiting for their turn.

 

[fabsroman]

Looks like a mighty fine stable of horses there, just waiting for their turn.

Thanks. Just waiting till April 16th so I can start riding them again and start running the saws too. This work stuff is for the birds.

 

[Jack Fate]

I don't partake anywhere near as much as I used to, so I am out of touch with what's good right now, but all of the following can be counted on as good representative drams.

Well for a place to start it's hard to go wrong with Macallan 12, and branch out from there. It's tons of quality and rich flavor of whiskey aged in old sherry casks, for the buck it tastes like something way more expensive than it is— way beyond the vapid Glenfiddichs and and their ilk.

Macallan also tends to stay pretty consistent from year to year.

The regular original Glenmorangie is another good starting point and good value. Clynelish 14 is another favorite that's great value, but a little hard to find. I liked Highland Park a lot (and Orkeny whisky), but it's gotten really expensive recently and the 12 yr-old that used to be good value was all sold out and it's now into vintages I haven't tasted, so could not say.

Oban is another great tasting single malt, but for some reason it's the only one that gives me headaches with even a small amount. Pity cos I liked that one a lot.

My personal favorite is Royal Lochnagar, but dadgum difficult to find on this side of the pond.

These whiskies are much like good quality saws Dolmar, Husky, Jonsered, Stihl — but the saws and whisky should never ever be mixed, of course.

Thanks was going in the Glenfiddichs 12 direction & still can do a shot at a place I found. But will seek out your recommends for bottle

Thank you & yes drinkin' & saws don't mix

Stackin' might tho

 

[Jack Fate]

 

[Jack Fate]

View attachment 98195

couldn't write anything with pic

My favorite of the last 50 yrs of what I've owned

Phil Wood hubs & BB ,magura hyd rim brakes & some japan co that I use to likes xtr drive line, rims Australia & yes Virginia an a American frame

nitto racks (japan) Berthude bags( France) may be misspelled & BAR END SHIFFTERS .

THEY DON'T MAK'EM LIKE THIS ANY MORE

Cheers

Does anyone understand this ?

And just noticed this is not Inglenook

blaming it on fabsroman

 

[fabsroman]

couldn't write anything with pic

My favorite of the last 50 yrs of what I've owned

Phil Wood hubs & BB ,magura hyd rim brakes & some japan co that I use to likes xtr drive line, rims Australia & yes Virginia an a American frame

nitto racks (japan) Berthude bags( France) may be misspelled & BAR END SHIFFTERS .

THEY DON'T MAK'EM LIKE THIS ANY MORE

Cheers

Does anyone understand this ?

And just noticed this is not Inglenook

blaming it on fabsroman

lol - I understand it.

Colnago Cristallo - pretty much 100% Italian except the DT-Swiss spokes, Look French pedals, and the Tufo tires.



Mino Denti - 100% Italian except the Look French pedals, chain, rear Suntour freewheel, and DT Swiss spokes. The saddle has since been changed for a Fizik.



C50 - again pretty much 100% Italian except the Look French pedals, DT- Swiss spokes, tires, Zipp rims made in America, ZEro-G brakes made in America, and hubs made in Germany. With that said, I have some Italian components waiting to be built into a wheelset. The stem has also been cut down since this pic.

 

[Pallet Pete]

I replied to "the wine guys" thread on cheap chainsaws but thought i'd start another topic for discussion.

Has anyone else had luck/success or a positive experience with cheaper gear...

I only have a McCulloch chainsaw (M3616 i think...36 cc, 40 cm bar) and compared to a higher end chainsaw it feels like a cheap plastic toy......compared to the Stihl i used the other day it actually feels dangerous.....but i keep it clean, sharp, lubed and its been faultless for 3 years...i only spent $200 on it....... in winter it gets very heavy regular domestic use, both dropping trees, chopping up trees, trimming trees, camping, clearing bushes.. My brother has also had a cheap McCulloch for close to 8 years..similar use to mine, and still going strong...

As the saying goes" buy the best and only cry once".....but I would suggest that for domestic use there might be a happy medium where you don't have to spend top dollar on all equipment...

Axes on the other hand....I've never had a cheap axe last more than one winter...

I have had a few cheap saws over the years and to be honest if you take care of them they will last. My 46cc poulan was the last chepo and it held up for a long time. It cost 129 bucks and went for almost five years before I bought a used stihl from Amateur Cutter on the forum. A good buddy took the old poulan and fixed it up again and its still cutting albeit slowly these days. I put that poulan through hell and back too ! It was never meant to take the cut time I gave it. It's all about the up keep of equtment.

Pete

 

[fabsroman]

I have had a few cheap saws over the years and to be honest if you take care of them they will last. My 46cc poulan was the last chepo and it held up for a long time. It cost 129 bucks and went for almost five years before I bought a used stihl from Amateur Cutter on the forum. A good buddy took the old poulan and fixed it up again and its still cutting albeit slowly these days. I put that poulan through hell and back too ! It was never meant to take the cut time I gave it. It's all about the up keep of equtment.

Pete

Yeah, upkeep matters, but I think you just proved that the lower end saws just do not do what the upper end ones do, and definitely not as nicely/smoothly. You had the saw for 5 years before it had to be "fixed up". If I have to "fix up" my MS261 or MS660 in 5 years and it is cutting a lot slower than it used to, that will be a travesty.

My dad used a couple McCullochs for around 10 years, but they were nowhere near as nice to cut with as my current saws. My dad is currently using a 16" Craftsman and after using my saws all he does is continue to look at the Stihl lineup in the ads and at the dealer. Finally got him to tell me what he would like and it is a MS251. Going to get that for him for his birthday. Granted, it isn't a MS261, but it will do just fine for his needs. It will be pleasant to use it AND it will pretty much last him forever.

 

[Pallet Pete]

Yeah, upkeep matters, but I think you just proved that the lower end saws just do not do what the upper end ones do, and definitely not as nicely/smoothly. You had the saw for 5 years before it had to be "fixed up". If I have to "fix up" my MS261 or MS660 in 5 years and it is cutting a lot slower than it used to, that will be a travesty.

My dad used a couple McCullochs for around 10 years, but they were nowhere near as nice to cut with as my current saws. My dad is currently using a 16" Craftsman and after using my saws all he does is continue to look at the Stihl lineup in the ads and at the dealer. Finally got him to tell me what he would like and it is a MS251. Going to get that for him for his birthday. Granted, it isn't a MS261, but it will do just fine for his needs. It will be pleasant to use it AND it will pretty much last him forever.

I can understand the attraction to a high end saw. I am by no means a Stihl fanatic however I do for the most art like my super 036. My actual love affair is and so far has remained Echo they are some bad mothers. My CS-310 has only needed an oil filter in the last 6 years and runs like the day it was new. I like the feel of Echo in my hands too. All that said the Poulan cut for 2 homes for 4 of those years I was not kidding when I said I put it through hell. For $129 and its still runs it was worth every penny to me. Weather I spend $129 every 5 years or $500 every 15 the price is close to the same. Its a matter of perspective I suppose ! If your cutting 3 cord a year for your home its really not necessary to have a fancy saw ( it is nice though ! ) Personally I like a good powerful saw in my hands but if money is a problem at the time then cheapo it is.

Pete

 

[fabsroman]

I can understand the attraction to a high end saw. I am by no means a Stihl fanatic however I do for the most art like my super 036. My actual love affair is and so far has remained Echo they are some bad mothers. My CS-310 has only needed an oil filter in the last 6 years and runs like the day it was new. I like the feel of Echo in my hands too. All that said the Poulan cut for 2 homes for 4 of those years I was not kidding when I said I put it through hell. For $129 and its still runs it was worth every penny to me. Weather I spend $129 every 5 years or $500 every 15 the price is close to the same. Its a matter of perspective I suppose ! If your cutting 3 cord a year for your home its really not necessary to have a fancy saw ( it is nice though ! ) Personally I like a good powerful saw in my hands but if money is a problem at the time then cheapo it is.

Pete

No need to have a chainsaw at all for 3 cords. Do it like Lincoln, with an ax. You could also use a one man saw. Saw that on a Stihl timbersports event the other day.

The point I am trying to make is that I would rather cut with a pro level saw that last 15+ years than a disposable $150 saw that just SUCKS compared to the pro saw. If the two were to have the same life span, then I would have to think twice about the disposable saw at 1/3 the cost. My experience has been that my dad goes through cheap saws left and right and spends more time resolving issues with them toward the end of their useful life than he does cutting wood. The headache just isn't worth it for me. I have also run the MS290, which has the same power as my MS261 but weighs about 2 pounds more, is bulkier, and feels like a brick. Yeah,. I am happy I spent the extra $170 for my MS261 over the MS290 even if both would last the same number of years and cut the same amount of wood.

 

[OldLumberKid]

couldn't write anything with pic

My favorite of the last 50 yrs of what I've owned

Phil Wood hubs & BB ,magura hyd rim brakes & some japan co that I use to likes xtr drive line, rims Australia & yes Virginia an a American frame

nitto racks (japan) Berthude bags( France) may be misspelled & BAR END SHIFFTERS .

THEY DON'T MAK'EM LIKE THIS ANY MORE

Cheers

Does anyone understand this ?

And just noticed this is not Inglenook

blaming it on fabsroman

Nice tandem — I have no idea if Cannondale makes, but you can still get all the artisan quality panniers, and I'm pretty sure Magura is still making great hydraulics.

I built my latest road bike in the basement from Campy, plus a frame and parts I'd spec'd out
and the wheels Custom DT Swiss 1.1 by Mike Garcia at Odds and Endos. Phil Wood was not in the budget, Garcia's Speedcific hubs are good.

I'm not sure whose chain I like better Campagnolo Chorus or Stihl — they both look good lubed up, but the Stihl chain stays a lot cleaner longer that's for sure. One cuts wood, and I guess on a bike it's gonna make short work of your calves

P.S. I'm gonna experiment — on an MTB with 3.5 parts OMS and 1 part Stihl bar oil — believe it or not it's secret sauce for some. The Road bike, though, gets Park CL-1.



FRAME/FORK
Frame: Leader 780-R 56cm; UAL Aluminum/Carbon Seatstay
Fork: Easton EC90 SLX CNT Carbon
Headset: Cane Creek IS series
Seatpost/Collar: Leader Bike*
Forkplug/Headset Cap: Leader Bike Carbon expanding plug.
Cable adjusters: Leader Bike

DRIVETRAIN
Crank: Campagnolo 2008 Compact Carbon Centaur 54-30, 165 mm
Cassette: Campagnolo Centaur 13-29
Shifters: Campagnolo 2007 Chorus
Chain: Campagnolo Chorus
BB: Campagnolo Record
Rear Derailleur: Campagnolo 2008 Centaur Medium
Front Der: Campagnolo 2008 Centaur
Cable guide under frame: Leader (Campy provided not used)
Cables/housings: Campagnolo
Pedals: Crank Bros Quattro / Crank Bros 5050*

WHEELS
DT Swiss 1.1 Rims, 28h front, 32h rear / Speedcific Campagnolo compat. Hubs (built by Mike Garcia--Odds and Endos)
Rear: 32-hole AE15/14 Black Brass nipples non-rive side/Sliver Brass on drive side
Front: 28-hole AE15 Aluminum nipples
Tires: Serfas Seca RS Folding 23mm
Tubes: Specialized (looked heavy duty long stem)

COCKPIT
Handlebar: FSA Wing Pro Aluminum (Short & Shallow)
Tape/wrap: Aztec/Delta Vibe Wrap*
Stem: Bontrager Race Lite 40 degree 4 bolt (for herniated neck discs C5-6-7)
Saddle: Koobi Enduro PRS
Mirror: for herniated neck discs C5-6-7 rear view = The Italian Road Bike Mirror
Waterbottle cage: Whatever was lying around in the MTB bag.

* Crank Bros 5050 pedals used during ongoing test riding and adjustment phase.

 

[geoff1969]

had a mcculloch 4218 = dead now lasted a few years doing light work but piston is now craped itself , the single ring cracked in 2 and scored the bore / pot .

 

[MasterMech]

I guess on a bike it's gonna make short work of your calves

That would be a sweet mod for one of you woodburner/cyclist types. Build a bike chain using chainsaw chain tie-straps and cutter links. Dull ones of course.