Silent Splitting

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Has anyone actually used the thermoplastic gear and can attest to whether its quieter?

Based on the responses thus far, I suspect you're going to be our first test subject. I've not seen anyone mention them prior to you, and I spend way too much time here.
 
Just curious. Have the neighbors actually come to you or is this the Housing Authority coming to you and saying "people are complaining?"
I'm of the opinion that everyone that moves into a neighborhood that has rules are obligated to oblige by those rules. You know it when you move there. You have to respect your neighbors. If you want to do what you want to do when you want to do it, move to the country. Then you can tell your neighbors to go jump in a lake. I'm with you finding a quieter solution. Though, I don't know what that is...................................
 
I think the point is being missed, here. The trouble is not simply complaining neighbors, but an ordinance that states he can't make noise doing yard work after 5pm. If the interpretation is that splitting wood is somehow "yard work," then he's dealing with the PD, not just the neighbors.

I argue that splitting firewood has nothing to do with yard work. How does the ordinance read? Can you post it here?

I think it's splitting hairs to try to define the difference (legally) between yard work and splitting wood. It's getting "in your face" and challenging. Like you said, It's not the action they dont want after 5:00 , its the noise coming from the yard.
 
I don't like having to make nice, I have to do it to in California(be nice) with no burn days, and just about anything else. My stacks could be considered a "junk" pile! Top down fires, burning seasoned wood eliminates smoke with a good wood burner.
I could be ordered to get rid of my wood, someone could complain it is a junk pile! Forced to use public utilities! I threw out my electric heat pump furnace. I get a "sole source of heat waiver"
My gosh you sound like some kind of criminal ;)
 
Yes, people actually complained. And I'm clearly in violation. And I knew it when I moved in. And I bought an abandoned house for half price. And it is really quiet here...So overall, good deal.

Now I just have to figure out if $250 for gear is worth it. It sounds like I will be the test subject.
 
Now I just have to figure out if $250 for gear is worth it.

That kind of dough gets you most of the way into an electric splitter which to your neighbors will be nearly inaudible. There is plenty of exercise to be had using a power splitter, trust me. You just crank up the output a bit. ;)
 
Noise ordinances . . . nosy neighbors . . . law enforcement.

No answers for you Lumbering . . . but I do want to say I am mighty glad to be where I am with the neighbors I have.

Fortunately for me... my extended family is quite large and has been in this town for over a century... we have a well earned "reputation" and have a long standing relationship with the town.... We are generally left alone, thankfully.

I generally try to be considerate.... I won't start a piece of equipment before 8am on a saturday... 9am on sunday... and am generally well worn out by 7pm...

I have been known to prove a point though...
 
Splitting in the Suburbs

It seems my new after work exercise routine of splitting wood for an hour or so may be a bit loud and annoying for the neighbors. (don't ask, it's new york). Wanting to make nice I have stopped the steel on steel wedges, but even the mauls on wood are loud.

I'm going to buy some new toys, but must choose wisely.

I know the Fiskars splitting axe is a miracle worker, but any sense on whether its quieter than the average maul?

Also anyone have experience with the superplastic sledgehammers like the Halders Simplex or the Fiskars Safety Wedge with a superplastic cap?

These are both expensive $50 for the wedge, $200 for the sledge, but willing to do so if they really are quieter so I can keep splitting at night.

That halder stuff looks nice. One neat thing I see is that its modular, so you can swap out heads to match what your doing.

Did you see the EH 3007. which is a Simplex maul with a wedge installed? Their wedges look like they have a twist. Might be a good splitter?
3007160.jpg


They also have a splitting AXE. that has a different profile too'
3007750.jpg
 
Is it possible for you to rent a storage locker and split wood off site and bring it home split?
 
I am glade I don't live where you do. And I don't have the cry babies you do.

I make noise, the two neighbors that are kinda close make noise, and no one cries about it

I recently had trouble with the authority's about a inoperative unlicensed vehicle ,that had been there for years,with no complaints anyway, long story short, ended up having to go to court,I repaired it ,put plates on it, and it was dismissed.
Here is the Ordnance ,I just wanted to show the part in bold ,but read it all if U like
The red part, I never did ask the cop about washing it before I put plates on it ;lol
Oh ya , check the blue part
Some of this stuff is never enforced, some of this stuff is ridicules
A vehicle looks the same with or without plates :mad:

EXTERIOR PROPERTY AREAS
302.1 SANITATION - All exterior property and premises shall be maintained in a clean, safe
and sanitary condition. The occupant shall keep that part of the exterior property which such
occupant occupies or controls in a clean and sanitary condition.
302-8 MOTOR VEHICLES - Except as provided for in other regulations, no inoperative or
unlicensed motor vehicle shall be parked, kept or stored on any premises, and no vehicle shall
at any time be in a state of major disassembly, disrepair, or in the process of being stripped or
dismantled. Painting of vehicles is prohibited unless conducted inside an approved spray
booth
Exception: A vehicle of any type is permitted to undergo major overhaul, including
body work, provided that such work is performed inside a structure or similarly enclosed
area designed and approved for such purposes.
ZONING ORDINANCE
4.50 PARKING, STORAGE AND REPAIR OF VEHICLES - The following standards shall
apply to any storage or repair of vehicles within any zoning district:
1. All vehicles parking or being worked on in a front yard area shall be on an approved
driveway surface, licensed and operable. Approved driveway surfaces include asphalt or
concrete. Stone base or gravel is acceptable as a temporary surface for up to one (1) year.
2. Routine maintenance procedures (such as washing, changing oil, fluids, belts or spark
plugs) on a residential lot shall only be permitted on a licensed vehicle that is owned or leased
by the owner or tenant of the principal dwelling. Such maintenance procedures shall be
permitted for a maximum of four (4) consecutive hours and a maximum of five (5) days during
any single month. Procedures which require the vehicle to be immobile or inoperable in
excess of five (5) consecutive days shall be carried out within an enclosed buiiding or off the
premises.
3. inoperable vehicles and vehicle parts shall be stored inside an enclosed building.
Section 4.50.1: All vehicles parking or being worked on in a front yard area shall be on an
approved driveway surface, licensed and operable. Approved driveway surfaces include
asphalt or concrete. Stone base or gravel is acceptable as a temporary surface for up to one
(1) year.
Section 4'50.2: Routine maintenance procedures (such as washing, changing oil, fluids, belts
or spark plugs) on a residential lot shall only be permitted on a licensed vehicle that is owned
or leased by the owner or tenant of the principal dwelling. Such maintenance procedures shall
be permitted for a maximum of four (4) consecutive hours and a maximum of five (5) days
during any single month. Procedures which require the vehicle to be immobile or inoperable in
excess of five (5) consecutive days shall be carried out within an enclosed building or off the
premises.
Section 4.50.3: inoperable vehicles and vehicle parts shall be stored inside an enclosed
building.
Section 4.50.4:
parking of tow trucks is prohibited in any zoning district except on a lot where
the principal use involves approved automotive service or repair.
Section 4.S0.S:
parking of commercial vehicles over one (1) ton within a public street right-of-
way is prohibited.
Section 4.50.6: Parking of commercial vehicles over one (1) ton anywhere in a residential
district is prohibited; except parking and storage of larger vehicles for farming or lumbering.
operations is permitted in residential districts if the Building Department determines the vehicle
is used exclusively for uses or activities permitted in the district.
4.58 RECREATIONAL VEHIGLE PARKING AND STORAGE
The outdoor parking of Class A, Class C, and non-motorized recreational vehicles,
snowmobiles and boats for periods exceeding forty-eight (48) hours is prohibited in the front
yard except within approved recreational vehicle storage yards. When Class A, Class C, and
hon-motorized recreational vehicles are stored, the vehicles must be stored only within the
confines the rear yard or side yard when behind the front building line of the principal
building; and shall further comply with the side and rear yard setback applicable to accessory
buildings, set forth in Section 4.2. ALL recreation vehicles parked or stored shall not be
connected to sanitary facilities and shall not be occupied'
Definitions of recreational vehicles (RV): Various types of "Recreational Vehicles"
include:
A. Travel Trailer: A portable vehicle on a chassis, which is designed to be used as a
temporary dwelling during travel, recreational, and vacation uses, and which may be
identified as a "travel trailer" or a "fifth wheel" by the manufacturer. Travel trailers
generally include self-contained sanitary, water, and electrical facilities.
On an industry-wide bases, this type of recreational vehicle is classified as a non motorized recreational
vehicle.
B. Pickup camper: A structure designed to be mounted on a pickup or truck chassis with
sufficient equipment to render it suitable for use as a temporary dwelling during the
process of travel, recreational, and vacation uses. On an industry-wide basis, this type
of recreational vehicle is classified as a non-motorized recreational vehicle.
C. Motor home: A recreational vehicle intended for temporary human habitation,
sleeping, and/or eating, mounted upon a chassis with wheels and capable of being
moved from place to place under its own power. Motor homes generally contain
sanitary, water, and electrical facilities. On an industry-wide basis, this type of
recreational vehicle is classified as either a Class A or Class B recreational vehicle. A
Class A or bus type recreational vehicle has the luggage compartment below the living
quarter. A Class B recreational vehicle is a van without a bed over the cab. A Class C
recreational vehicle is a van with the bed over the cab and is much larger than a
passenger van due to the bed over the cab.
D. Van/camper: A recreational vehicle intended for temporary human habitation,
sleeping and/or eating. This class of recreational vehicles includes conversion vans and
camper vans which may contain refrigerator as well as water and electrical facilities.
This class closely resembles passenger vans, but some models may be taller to allow
for extra head room. On an industry-wide basis, this type of recreational vehicle is
classified as a Class B recreational vehicle.
E. Folding tent trailer: A folding structure mounted on wheels and designed for travel
and vacation use.
F. Boats and boat trailers: Boats, floats, rafts, canoes, plus the normal equipment to
transport them on the highway.
G. Other recreational equipment: Snowmobiles, jet skis, all terrain or special terrain
vehicles, utility trailers, plus the normal equipment used to transport them on the
highway.
 
I'm big on being kind to your neighbors, and I expect the same in return and don't tolerate anything less. However, as long as your doing it at a reasonable time, and your not bothering someone with unusual circumstances such as a day sleeper, I would have to kindly say, get over it. That is just ridiculous. I could never live in New York or any other place that tries to micro manage every thing.

That's my feeling too. Very important to be good to the neighbors, but splitting with a maul between 8 a.m. and 8 p.m. seems very reasonable. I'd rather listen to that than a lawn mower or leaf blower. I'm on a 1/4 acre, surrounded by 1/4 acre lots, and get no complaints.
 
I would keep splitting by hand - it is healthy and inexpensive, and an american tradition. I do think a FIskars would be a lot less loud and irritating than the sound of a sledge on a wedge. I think any tool that splits the wood directly, rather than requiring a wedge, would be a big improvement in the noise department.
 
Where are you splitting, on the 3rd floor of an apartment complex/condo ? LOL :) Garbage truck to noisy for me, stop garbage collection!
Dave I work in an area of NY where the residents are so picky that we have very poor cell signal because they dont want the towers visible from their house. The two towers that they are building are disguised as spruce trees. ridiculous.
 
Dave I work in an area of NY where the residents are so picky that we have very poor cell signal because they dont want the towers visible from their house. The two towers that they are building are disguised as spruce trees. ridiculous.

:confused:
Spruce tree tower ?
Should be Palm trees. LOL ;lol
 
Man you must be on Long Island for that to happen. I use the X27 and it is quite. I Have not found to much that I can not split with it yet.
 
Found the Halder Sledgehammer on Amazon Germany for $100.

Not a bad price at all.

So your considering the sledge and wedge? Did you look at the mauls I posted earlier? Might be a better option, because you have a maul and a sledge side for wacking a wedge when needed.. I prefer a maul to the wedge. I only used the wedge when absolutely necessary.
 
I picked up a cheap 8 lb Home Depot maul, and will likely get the Fiskars splitting axe everyone is going on about.

But I am thinking about the Halder Maul vs the Halder Sledge.

I just had a whole oak tree dropped off in a dump truck and the rounds are massive. I think I'll need the wedges.
 
oh, and hdrock wins on the ordinances. All I have to do is hire a landscaper to do all my yard work during the weekday hours of 9 to 5.
 
I picked up a cheap 8 lb Home Depot maul, and will likely get the Fiskars splitting axe everyone is going on about.

But I am thinking about the Halder Maul vs the Halder Sledge.

I just had a whole oak tree dropped off in a dump truck and the rounds are massive. I think I'll need the wedges.

One good thing about the Halder stuff is it looks like if the maul doesnt work, you can swap the blade for another smooth face and have a double ended sledge. Wedges are nice for the big stuff though. I have a Estwing wedge and I like it for what it is.
 
Cause I am from there in Suffolk and that sounds about normal for some areas.

I can't even begin to imagine what it's like to live in such a restrictive place.
 
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