researching stoves around 2cf, too many choices ,help

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new guy

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May 20, 2013
11
the county, me
Hi all, looking atstoves 2-2.5, non cat, with a 14ft ss lined insulated flue. Using a jotul cb 602 now as supplemental but, looking to go 24/7 next year with 1000sq ft. Clearences arent an issue, like to stay under $2000, with a stove that sips wood. Entire floor is tile on a slab...cold and a heat sponge. Researching the site, englander and the tn19 seem decent but a bit plain on looks. Thanks for your input.
 
Hi all, looking atstoves 2-2.5, non cat, with a 14ft ss lined insulated flue. Using a jotul cb 602 now as supplemental but, looking to go 24/7 next year with 1000sq ft. Clearences arent an issue, like to stay under $2000, with a stove that sips wood. Entire floor is tile on a slab...cold and a heat sponge. Researching the site, englander and the tn19 seem decent but a bit plain on looks. Thanks for your input.
Pacific Energy Super 27 or the Alderlea T-5 if you like the look of cast iron are about as frugal as it gets for non-cat stoves.. I get around 12 hr. burns with the T-5 and the Super 27 will be the same..

Ray
 
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The True North is similar to the other PE stoves Ray mentioned, but uses tubes instead of the baffle. Those that have them seem happy. The price is nice.
 
If you want it to sip wood why are you wanting non cat?

And is your under $2k with liner or just stove?

I just bought my BK Sirocco and it was like $1700. Little on the expensive side but it is supposed to have a long burn time.
 
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IMG_0003.JPGIMG_0014.JPG Well welcome to Hearth New Guy, I am pretty new myself also. I have the Lennox Granview 230 Woodstove which I believe is either 2.0 cubic feet or maybe a tad smaller. It has more of the looks you would like as you can add the trim to it and would definitely recommend the blower with it if thats something you would go with.

Its a non cat but the thing I liked about this wood stove is the Heat Exchanger which creates 32% more surface area than a standard design resulting in more heat entering the room. Here is a link to a website that shows the Wood Stove a little more for you, http://rockymountainstove.com/lennoxgrandview230woodstove.aspx.

All the other woodstoves mentioned above are good stoves. Good luck in your search.
 
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Our family and friends all run Jotuls and love them. Good luck w your decision.
 
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Woodman,
Not sure if its just those pics, but does that stove have amazing clearances?
 
I'm somewhat low draft so I think cat stoves are out of the question. I listed the liner because thats my current set up. Heres a new guy question... all the stoves I look at are brick lined with tubes at the top, essentially all the same, so what sets them apart besides looks and build quality? A pe tn19 seems the same as an englander or century, regency etc?
 
I'm somewhat low draft so I think cat stoves are out of the question. I listed the liner because thats my current set up. Heres a new guy question... all the stoves I look at are brick lined with tubes at the top, essentially all the same, so what sets them apart besides looks and build quality? A pe tn19 seems the same as an englander or century, regency etc?
You definately have to do your homework when choosing a new stove. There are 3 major types of stoves, excluding cat and noncat, and they are soapstone, steel, and cast iron (now there are even stoves part steel and part cast). Anyway, soaps usually give a more even heat (convectional) thoughtout the home, while casts and steel are more radiant types of heat (both can do a fine job heating an entire house though). The main difference between casts and steel is a steel stove will heat a cold house quicker, but also might allow the house to cool down between cycles (loads). A cast may take a little longer to warm a cool house, but they tend to stay hotter longer than steels do and seem a bit less radiant than steels, at least in my experiences. A soap can put out heat hours after a fire is out. These are just some basic differences and Im sure it varies from stove to stove and different set-ups. I for one have burned a steel and a cast and really like both. Our neighbor has a soap, which is also a wonderful stove. Just depends on what suits you. As far as brand names go, some brands just have much better reputations and for reasons worth researching. When my uncle put a stove in about 20 years ago, Vermont Castings was the go-to stove. I was going to take that route until I heard about their lack of customer service, service parts, and overall quality of their newer stoves. After researching and seeing them burn, I decided a Jotul was what I wanted and Im still perfectly happy w the decision. Do your homework and visit a store that burns their stoves so you can get a better idea as to what you're looking for. Again, best of luck.
 
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The clearance is okay but I think the picture makes it a little deceiving.
I believe its the firewood thats touching the stove, but not in the stove, that caught his attention . Bad juju:ZZZ ;)
 
looking to go 24/7 next year with 1000sq ft. Clearences arent an issue, like to stay under $2000, with a stove that sips wood.
I have an Avalon Spokane 1750, it is made by Travis Industries, so the same stove as a Lopi Republic 1750 with a different door. I have 1100 Sq Ft and I heated 24/7 this winter. used about 2-2.5 cord of wood, not really well seasoned so it should be less next year. Love the Stove, it is an entry level secondary type, price is under 2k if you shop around now you can get last year model for 1000-1500. dont worry nothing changes.
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This category has the largest selection of all which makes it really difficult to research. Concerning price, would that 2k budget include installation and chimney? You say you have a Jotul. Are you using the existing chimney and pipe for the new stove? If it's 2k for everything, that puts you in the sub 1k area for the stove which is a much smaller category and the Englander and PE True North are good picks.

I researched the heck out of stoves in your category (sub $2000 stove only) and my favs were the PE Super 27 (the Alderlea is really nice, but over 2k), the Lopi/Avalon and the Grandview 230 mentioned above. The Grandview is fairly new so doesn't have a lot of reviews, but I liked it a lot.
 
If you want it to sip wood why are you wanting non cat?

And is your under $2k with liner or just stove?

I just bought my BK Sirocco and it was like $1700. Little on the expensive side but it is supposed to have a long burn time.
$1700.00 sounds like a great deal to me! Around here they are MUCH more expensive.. The T-5 lists higher than $1700.00

Ray
 
You definately have to do your homework when choosing a new stove. There are 3 major types of stoves, excluding cat and noncat, and they are soapstone, steel, and cast iron (now there are even stoves part steel and part cast). Anyway, soaps usually give a more even heat (convectional) thoughtout the home, while casts and steel are more radiant types of heat (both can do a fine job heating an entire house though). The main difference between casts and steel is a steel stove will heat a cold house quicker, but also might allow the house to cool down between cycles (loads). A cast may take a little longer to warm a cool house, but they tend to stay hotter longer than steels do and seem a bit less radiant than steels, at least in my experiences. A soap can put out heat hours after a fire is out. These are just some basic differences and Im sure it varies from stove to stove and different set-ups. I for one have burned a steel and a cast and really like both. Our neighbor has a soap, which is also a wonderful stove. Just depends on what suits you. As far as brand names go, some brands just have much better reputations and for reasons worth researching. When my uncle put a stove in about 20 years ago, Vermont Castings was the go-to stove. I was going to take that route until I heard about their lack of customer service, service parts, and overall quality of their newer stoves. After researching and seeing them burn, I decided a Jotul was what I wanted and Im still perfectly happy w the decision. Do your homework and visit a store that burns their stoves so you can get a better idea as to what you're looking for. Again, best of luck.
The Alderlea stoves act like soapstone I hate to tell you.. There is an air space between the steel firebox and the cast iron so the cast iron never exceeds 250 degrees and radiates heat a long time.. Convection stoves VS radiant stoves is a different battle and why I love convection plus the blower kicks out the heat if you need it..

Ray
 
The Alderlea stoves act like soapstone I hate to tell you.. There is an air space between the steel firebox and the cast iron so the cast iron never exceeds 250 degrees and radiates heat a long time.. Convection stoves VS radiant stoves is a different battle and why I love convection plus the blower kicks out the heat if you need it..

Ray
Huh? I didnt even mention Alderleas so not sure why youd hate to tell me anything.
 
I still suggest a Avalon
Spokane 1750 or the Lopi

Republic 1750 both are the entry level stoves, 2.2 Cu Ft fire box, kick out the heat. I personally like the looks better than the overly decorated stoves offered at the higher price levels. I was routinely getting 10+ hr burn times on marginal wood, with ash and oak mix 12+ was not unusual with a 300 degree stove and coals to light again.
 
Google Drolet.

Steel baffle system vs. tube, many/most here seem to like theirs and they are very reasonably priced in most areas.
 
Hi all, looking atstoves 2-2.5, non cat, with a 14ft ss lined insulated flue. Using a jotul cb 602 now as supplemental but, looking to go 24/7 next year with 1000sq ft. Clearences arent an issue, like to stay under $2000, with a stove that sips wood. Entire floor is tile on a slab...cold and a heat sponge. Researching the site, englander and the tn19 seem decent but a bit plain on looks. Thanks for your input.

In addition to the PE line in 2 cu ft (TN19, Super27, Alderlea T5), take a look at the Enviro Boston too. In Quadrafire, look at the Cumberland Gap. In Jotul, the F45 (Greenville) or F500 (Oslo) or in Hearthstone the Shelburne or Hampton H300. Also, I wouldn't rule out cat stoves. It sounds like your place would work well with a Woodstock Palladian, Keystone or Fireview.

These are all good stoves. My recommendations are in bold. They are the best sippers for the best price IMO.
 
Huh? I didnt even mention Alderleas so not sure why youd hate to tell me anything.
I was referring to cast iron's heating properties which jackets the outside of Alderlea stoves..

Ray
 
Hi all, looking atstoves 2-2.5, non cat, with a 14ft ss lined insulated flue. Using a jotul cb 602 now as supplemental but, looking to go 24/7 next year with 1000sq ft. Clearences arent an issue, like to stay under $2000, with a stove that sips wood. Entire floor is tile on a slab...cold and a heat sponge. Researching the site, englander and the tn19 seem decent but a bit plain on looks. Thanks for your input.

Welcome to the forum New Guy.

First thing that catches my eye is you want to limit yourself to a non-cat stove. Why?

Perhaps you are like we were. The last time we looked, we had heard some bad things about cat stoves so really did not even want to look at them. Just to make a long story short, we now own a cat stove and couldn't be happier. The two best things about this cat stove (Woodstock Fireview; 2.2 firebox) is that it is super clean burning and whereas we used to close off part of our house during winter and still were not comfortable, when we installed the Fireview we also cut our wood needs in half! Not only that, but we no longer close off part of the house and we keep the temperature 80 degrees or more all winter long using half the amount of wood as before.

Naturally with the size you have quoted, I'll suggest the Fireview. Yes, the slab/tile floor can be some problem but perhaps not as much as you are thinking. For example, we always had cold floors before and now my wife wanted a raised hearth. I argued that heat goes up and not down. However, we raised the hearth 16" and our floors have never been warmer. Yes; I was wrong and she was right. ;)
 
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I have an Avalon Spokane 1750, it is made by Travis Industries, so the same stove as a Lopi Republic 1750 with a different door. I have 1100 Sq Ft and I heated 24/7 this winter. used about 2-2.5 cord of wood, not really well seasoned so it should be less next year. Love the Stove, it is an entry level secondary type, price is under 2k if you shop around now you can get last year model for 1000-1500. dont worry nothing changes.


Hi, I am thinking of getting the same stove, Avalon Spokane 1750. I have some questions about your experience:

My needs are: under $2500, around 2cf to for backup/supplement heat for 1500 sf one level open ranch, prefer somewhat modern/contemporary looks.

1) Are you still happy with this stove?

2) Looking back, do you wish you had gotten something different?

3) Have you had any problems cleaning without a bypass damper?

4) Any other problems with the stove or any other feedback.

You can see my project unfolding at the following thread: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/assistance-selecting-stove.110440/

Thanks in advance!
 
I know Augie will be around shortly to respond, but I'd like to chime in as well:
1. We bought the Avalon Spokane last year and we absolutely love it. Despite it being an entry-level stove, you can obviously see that it's made by a great company with a lot of experience. I researched stoves for about 5 months before purchasing it.
2. No, it was the best value for a quality stove. My other options would either be too much, not have the characteristics we needed, or would be too darn cheap. Our house is 1200sq. ft with a full basement and unfinished loft bedroom. The stove is located in our living room. We have cathedral ceilings and move the air around the house with fans.
3. Cleaning is actually quite easy for us. I have a 90deg. elbow with a "thru the wall" connector to our SS chimney. I simply remove the stovepipe (double wall for reduced clearance and performance) and run my brushes up through the chimney T from my deck. We have a lot of chimney due to our roof pitch. Despite not having a straight-shot chimney, our drafts are amazing and I've never had an issue with backdrafts or slow start-ups. We considered getting a damper in the pipe but decided against it.
4. Our stove was on display at the stove shop. The gasket needed to be replaced after about 3 months of burning since it was probably installed incorrectly and had a lot of people messing with the door. You need to learn the stove; I went from a 1981? Blaze King to an EPA stove and had a bit of a learning curve. There were a couple times where temps got a little warm, but nothing I couldn't handle by pointing a box fan at the stove to bring down the temp. The secondary burns are so pretty I spent more time watchin the stove than watching my beloved Irish and Bonnies play this fall/winter.
*We used 2.5-3 cord of wood this year. Most of it was well-seasoned...we'll be more prepared next year.
**I got 12 hour burn times on several occassions using bone-dry red oak. I'm a school teacher and would load the stove up around 5:50am, head off to work, then have decent coals and a hot stove when I got back home around 4:30. Amazingly I got those burn-times with marginal wood (boxelder, buckthorn, some ash).
*** I just bought the fan and will be using it this year to further help move the heat to our back rooms.
 
Have you looked into Hearthstone's new stove? The Castleton.
It's a no frills all soapstone stove, 1.9 cubic feet priced right at $2,000. I'm putting one in this fall.
 
I know Augie will be around shortly to respond, but I'd like to chime in as well:
1. We bought the Avalon Spokane last year and we absolutely love it. Despite it being an entry-level stove, you can obviously see that it's made by a great company with a lot of experience. I researched stoves for about 5 months before purchasing it.
2. No, it was the best value for a quality stove. My other options would either be too much, not have the characteristics we needed, or would be too darn cheap. Our house is 1200sq. ft with a full basement and unfinished loft bedroom. The stove is located in our living room. We have cathedral ceilings and move the air around the house with fans.
3. Cleaning is actually quite easy for us. I have a 90deg. elbow with a "thru the wall" connector to our SS chimney. I simply remove the stovepipe (double wall for reduced clearance and performance) and run my brushes up through the chimney T from my deck. We have a lot of chimney due to our roof pitch. Despite not having a straight-shot chimney, our drafts are amazing and I've never had an issue with backdrafts or slow start-ups. We considered getting a damper in the pipe but decided against it.
4. Our stove was on display at the stove shop. The gasket needed to be replaced after about 3 months of burning since it was probably installed incorrectly and had a lot of people messing with the door. You need to learn the stove; I went from a 1981? Blaze King to an EPA stove and had a bit of a learning curve. There were a couple times where temps got a little warm, but nothing I couldn't handle by pointing a box fan at the stove to bring down the temp. The secondary burns are so pretty I spent more time watchin the stove than watching my beloved Irish and Bonnies play this fall/winter.
*We used 2.5-3 cord of wood this year. Most of it was well-seasoned...we'll be more prepared next year.
**I got 12 hour burn times on several occassions using bone-dry red oak. I'm a school teacher and would load the stove up around 5:50am, head off to work, then have decent coals and a hot stove when I got back home around 4:30. Amazingly I got those burn-times with marginal wood (boxelder, buckthorn, some ash).
*** I just bought the fan and will be using it this year to further help move the heat to our back rooms.


Thanks for your valuable input on your experiences. I think we will go ahead with the Avalon 1750. I like the looks, size and price of this stove. I look forward to getting good use from it this winter. Thanks again.
 
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