A little help with a 1980's Kodiak wood stove.

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Jeff Bright

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Nov 28, 2012
11
Just got a used one and it cleaned up nice and painted even nicer. My problem, with what little bricks were inside that were distinguishable, it looks like a hodge-podge of cutting I'll need to do to completely cover the bottom, sides and back. The person I got it from inherited it in the home he just purchased, so no manual is available.

The rear wall brick holders do hold a 2.5 inch thickness brick, which is considered full size, and the side holders fit the standard 1.25 inch bricks.

The dimensions are close to a Grandpa Fisher, but the firebox is not. As best I measured, it is 26 inches wide and 22.25inches deep.

If I were to lay the floor first, completely side to side, that is great, but the the side brick over hangers could only accept a 7inch high brick. But, the rear hangers are welded higher and will take the full 9inch high bricks.
Anyone have a schematic of the the bricks used, or a picture of the inside of theirs if they have one?
Last question, since it looks like some will need cut, will a grinder with a cutoff wheel work, cause that is all I have.

Thanks for any and all help folks,
Jeff
 
Hello Jeff, I'm not very up on the Kodiaks but, The Fisher brick is installed, back, sides, then bottom. The only person in the forum I know of "that may" know correctly is Coaly.
If you PM him, he may be able to help.

You may also be able to get ahold of Alaska stove works, "who made your stove" and they may shed some light on it for you. Other than that, your best bet is the good old tape measure and some basic "rithmitic" ;) .... at any rate Good luck with the stove, we had a friend of the family who had a big kodiak and it was a great stove;ex I've have Fishers and there close to the Kodiaks. Also Welcome to the forum:cool:... Great place here....!
 
With my 1980's stove I am just retiring the fire bricks are stacked sides first then the floor. I replaced several 2 years ago and cut the ones needed with a circular saw and masonary blade. Not sure about grinder and cut off wheel it may work or if not it may score them enough you could then try a chisel or fashion up a piece of steel and sharpen an edge on it to use like a chisel.
 
OK, hopefully last question. It does have a baffle plate in it, but the front end of the plate is curved. Right now the curve faces up......should it be this way, or should the curve face downward? And when I say the front end, I mean the door opening end.

Thanks,

Jeff
 
Curve is correct on that aspect! smooth air flow is what you want.;)

+1 on what Dave said. The air feeds under the wood through the hot coals, hits the back of the stove and rolls upward. The baffle then forces it back toward the front before it rolls around that upward curve and then to the flue.
 
Before you go on a stove installing rampage - do yourself a favor and make sure that installing a dragon is OK with your ins co. and anybody that might need to inspect it. Cover your bases.
 
Jeff,
I have an ORIGIONAL installation packet for ALASKA Kodiak woodstove.Large Insert Fire Brick Arrangement "Cut Sheet". I have the opportunity to have for Free a beautiful almost unused large insert. Complete with blower, bricks, the whole system. I don't know what it will take to get it authorized to use here in Washington state. The paperwork is all here, installation Instructions, Warranty Card, Blower Motor (Dayton) cutsheet. It's a heavy bastard! Moved it across the garage myself. I don't know if it's worth the effort to load it into my truck?? I have pictures on my phone. Odd, the top has a rectangular opening vs. round???

Tim
 
Jeff,
I have an ORIGIONAL installation packet for ALASKA Kodiak woodstove.Large Insert Fire Brick Arrangement "Cut Sheet". I have the opportunity to have for Free a beautiful almost unused large insert. Complete with blower, bricks, the whole system. I don't know what it will take to get it authorized to use here in Washington state. The paperwork is all here, installation Instructions, Warranty Card, Blower Motor (Dayton) cutsheet. It's a heavy bastard! Moved it across the garage myself. I don't know if it's worth the effort to load it into my truck?? I have pictures on my phone. Odd, the top has a rectangular opening vs. round???

Tim

Tim,
The reason it has a square opening is it was made back then to just slide into the fireplace and then you sealed the surround panels. That is what they call now a-day a "slammer install" Slam it in the fireplace and start burning. As was learned, a bunch of creosote was produced that way because the area of the smoke chamber was so large that the chimney rarely got hot enough. That said, the insert I just removed had a square hole and I burnt it as a slammer for many years. After learning the error of my ways and a chimney fire I lined the chimney and had a square to round adapter fabbed so I could hook a liner up to it. Burnt another 2 years with totally different stove performance but decided it was time to upgrade.
 
Just got a used one and it cleaned up nice and painted even nicer. My problem, with what little bricks were inside that were distinguishable, it looks like a hodge-podge of cutting I'll need to do to completely cover the bottom, sides and back. The person I got it from inherited it in the home he just purchased, so no manual is available.

The rear wall brick holders do hold a 2.5 inch thickness brick, which is considered full size, and the side holders fit the standard 1.25 inch bricks.

The dimensions are close to a Grandpa Fisher, but the firebox is not. As best I measured, it is 26 inches wide and 22.25inches deep.

If I were to lay the floor first, completely side to side, that is great, but the the side brick over hangers could only accept a 7inch high brick. But, the rear hangers are welded higher and will take the full 9inch high bricks.
Anyone have a schematic of the the bricks used, or a picture of the inside of theirs if they have one?
Last question, since it looks like some will need cut, will a grinder with a cutoff wheel work, cause that is all I have.

Thanks for any and all help folks,
Jeff
 
I have an old Kodiak stove in my hunting camp. It has survived two arson fires in the last 18 years. We still use it and works well.
I have several questions. Can the doors have gaskets installed in them and if so what size?
The fire brick you speak of are only on the sides.
The stove is free standing and has a ten inch flue to a verticle chimney.
Can you provide any further info.

Len
 
I have an old Kodiak stove in my hunting camp. It has survived two arson fires in the last 18 years. We still use it and works well.
I have several questions. Can the doors have gaskets installed in them and if so what size?
The fire brick you speak of are only on the sides.
The stove is free standing and has a ten inch flue to a verticle chimney.
Can you provide any further info.

Len
Len,

I used a flat gasket on the opening itself, not on the doors. Firebrick is bottom, back and sides. Did not know of a 10" flue as mine has an 8" top vent.
I should take a picture of it as I just fired it up the other night.
 
Does anyone happen to have a copy of the instruction manual for a Kodiak Wood Burning stove from the 1980's? I have recently acquired one but I need the install instructions for the building inspector before I can have it put in.
 
Does anyone happen to have a copy of the instruction manual for a Kodiak Wood Burning stove from the 1980's? I have recently acquired one but I need the install instructions for the building inspector before I can have it put in.
I need one too! Did you find one?
 
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