Put some "FANGS" on the beast!

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Nice looking dawgs! Cheers!
 
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Long dawgs are better than short dawgs ::-)
 
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Big bite for a big dog saw ;)

Look mean, don't let them bite you :)
 
Not to shabby!
When did you have time for that, You should be out cutting!!!!
 
Will be interesting to see how you like using them. I found my 036 pro didn't really have the muscle to aggressively use dogs the way I'm used to. Good speed saw, but short on torque when leveraging it against the dogs.
 
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Will be interesting to see how you like using them. I found my 036 pro didn't really have the muscle to aggressively use dogs the way I'm used to. Good speed saw, but short on torque when leveraging it against the dogs.


I see what you are saying, since I have never used them before I did need to change my technique just a little. Make sure I keep my RPM's up... I like them though.

Even though I am still burning through my 40:1 mix, and I need to adjust the carb, this thing SLICES through everything that I touch with it :)
 
Have you had to sharpen the chain yet?
How did you do?
 
They look impressive, at least. My HD Makita came with one dawg 'missing', but the other one is enough.
 
Have you had to sharpen the chain yet?
How did you do?


Still haven't sharpened it yet!!! Not sure exactly how to tell "WHEN" it needs it..... feels sharp to my finger still!

Even so, I bought everything needed to sharpen and I will get after it tomorrow.
 
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those may be useful cutting stumps, as my 362 only had inside dogs & WOULD NOT catch on hi side of stump

wadda think ?o_O

wondering
 
Still haven't sharpened it yet!!! Not sure exactly how to tell "WHEN" it needs it..... feels sharp to my finger still!

When you get a little more experience, you'll be able to tell by the size of the chips flying off the saw. When you get a LOT more experience, you will be able to tell by looking at or feeling the chain itself.

For now, assume a half day of cutting per sharpening. If you've got a solid day of cutting oak and ash on it, you're ready for a sharpening. The best way to learn what dull and sharp feels like is to swap to a new chain.
 
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When you get a little more experience, you'll be able to tell by the size of the chips flying off the saw. When you get a LOT more experience, you will be able to tell by looking at or feeling the chain itself.

For now, assume a half day of cutting per sharpening. If you've got a solid day of cutting oak and ash on it, you're ready for a sharpening. The best way to learn what dull and sharp feels like is to swap to a new chain.

Ok got #6 tank on new 362 you think I need sharpen ? Thing throws chips like mad . Even made vertical cuts cutting stumps (that I don't normally do ) very impressive saw ,really started screaming last 2 tanks.
I got another chain (new) but also remember a logger friend said new chains aren't sharp?

Me if it ain't broke;)
?
 
Ok got #6 tank on new 362 you think I need sharpen ? Thing throws chips like mad . Even made vertical cuts cutting stumps (that I don't normally do ) very impressive saw ,really started screaming last 2 tanks.
I got another chain (new) but also remember a logger friend said new chains aren't sharp?

Me if it ain't broke;)
?

Well, six tanks of gas is about a full day of cutting for me, and I'd guess that if you're cutting oak or similar, you're about due to pull out the file. When I used saws much less frequently, I never noticed that my chain was dulling, until I hit a rock or metal in the tree. It would always surprise me when I put on a fresh chain, to realize how dull the previous actually was.
 
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Still haven't sharpened it yet!!! Not sure exactly how to tell "WHEN" it needs it..... feels sharp to my finger still!

Even so, I bought everything needed to sharpen and I will get after it tomorrow.
When you start putting more downward pressure when cutting, that's when you need to sharpen it.
 
When you start putting more downward pressure when cutting, that's when you need to sharpen it.

... or when the chips flying out start to look less like small playground mulch, and more like table saw dust.
 
yikes - I sharpen mine with every tank of fuel - quick touch up with my files in the field. After 6-8 tanks, I'll pull out the dremel if anything needs reshaped. I could not imagine going 6 tanks without changing or touching the chain.
 
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Just cut off a 40" & 38" stump , nice big chips . After my tired old 310 ( even with a sharp chain ) this thing still cuts fast & easy . I do spray wd on bar & chain when cutting stumps off , seems to keep the resin build up down.

If it makes you guys happy I'll go file the darn thing ; )
 
Just cut off a 40" & 38" stump , nice big chips . After my tired old 310 ( even with a sharp chain ) this thing still cuts fast & easy . I do spray wd on bar & chain when cutting stumps off , seems to keep the resin build up down.

If it makes you guys happy I'll go file the darn thing ; )

Its worth a few minutes between tanks of fuel....few minutes touching up the chain will save much more time while cutting.


Great quote from 'ol Abe.

"Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe"
 
When you start putting more downward pressure when cutting, that's when you need to sharpen it.


X2. With my stuff it really depends on the wood. I've cut 3 cords of silver maple which was probably 10-12 tanks of fuel in the 460 without touching the chain and the half cord of mulberry I cut the other night took out two chains on less than two tanks.
 
X2. With my stuff it really depends on the wood. I've cut 3 cords of silver maple which was probably 10-12 tanks of fuel in the 460 without touching the chain and the half cord of mulberry I cut the other night took out two chains on less than two tanks.


I think that's the answer. I'm cutting mostly Oak and Ash these days, and it's hard on chains. I'm guessing the guys claiming they go days without sharpening are mostly cutting softwoods. Someone even mentioned WD-40 on the bar to avoid "gumming". What the hell? Must be cutting pine trees!
 
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