Dead standing Ash?
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blujacket
Minister of Fire
Backwoods Savage
Minister of Fire
What is monster about it? Looks like an ordinary ash and will make excellent firewood.
Woody Stover
Minister of Fire
Certainly looks like White Ash to me. If you are still uncertain after you drop it, post some pics of splits before you buck it.
nrford
Minister of Fire
Paulywalnut
Minister of Fire
Its a good 30-40' tall and 24" across, I mean I have bigger on my property but this will be the biggest I've fallen.
When I went back out to take measurements I noticed there are 4 dead ones all like this which I didn't see before because its pretty dense out/up there..... what could cause these ash trees to die like this?
blujacket
Minister of Fire
Not sure if it's hit NY yet, but here in the Midwest, the EAB has/is killing all Ash trees
BIG BOY DOWN and its a beaut
All wood still perfect condition and Im guessing between 1-2 cords.
All wood still perfect condition and Im guessing between 1-2 cords.It may have gotten here already if this tree is indeed a ash like I think. There are ALOT of ash in the area still alive and well.........
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Three counties in Iowa have recently reported it. Eastern Iowa but it probably won't be long until we start seeing more reports across the state.
Buckeye 2012
Member
Its not a disease its a bug. Yes it is spreading wildly. Most of Ohio ash trees have been killed or are in the process.
Bug attacks where? Everything I've cut so far is solid, only thing wrong with the tree was there were no leaves.
And again... is this for sure Ash??????
Here is the link for NY
http://www.emeraldashborer.info/newyorkinfo.cfm#sthash.5w48Ekjx.dpbs
And the bark on that downed tree sure looks like ash to me.
http://www.emeraldashborer.info/newyorkinfo.cfm#sthash.5w48Ekjx.dpbs
And the bark on that downed tree sure looks like ash to me.
From what I understand it pretty hard to see evidence of an EAB. A D shaped exit hole is one way, but the bug is pretty small so it's hard to spot. I believe there would be trails under the bark left by the critter if it kills the tree.
nrford
Minister of Fire
The fact its missing leaves matches the description but there are no burrow holes that I can see.......
Fresh split is between 25-30% and since its ash it should be good for this winter no?
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blujacket
Minister of Fire
Backwoods Savage
Minister of Fire
It is called the emerald ash borer. Soon there will be no ash trees left. All of ours are dead.
As for felling the 24" trees, in my opinion it is easier to fell those than the smaller ones.
Here is what the borer looks like but you won't likely see one. You'll find some D shaped holes in the trees though and if you get any bark off the logs, you'll see a roadmap inside where they have traveled.
Backwoods Savage
Minister of Fire
Do not look for the holes in the wood itself. You'll find the holes in the bark. As for burning it this coming winter, I suppose some would but I would not. Never buy into that saying that just because it is ash you can burn it right away. That is nothing but pure baloney. Sure, you can burn it but you won't get but maybe half the amount of heat from it vs burning it after it has time to dry. Even most of our dead ash is not ready to burn when cut. There is a little bit but you have to remember our ash trees started dieing in 2002. That is 11 years ago!
Sad really. Is there anything I can do to save the ones that are still alive? Im guessing its probably already too late....... As for the 24", it was the first one I fell that big so my heart was going a little, luckily it went exactly where I wanted it to and thank god I had a wedge
Bucked up about a 1/3 so far of the top end..... the bottom, yea, Im not sure how I am going to get those rounds out of the woods (hope my 2 wheel drive quad is strong enough).Thanks for all the info guys!!
Backwoods Savage
Minister of Fire
Basically there isn't much you can do. I have heard of a spray but the cost could be well over $200 per tree and I've heard much higher. That is why there has been very little spraying done. Yes, it is sad. We had a few hundred of those nice white ash.... It hurts.
As for the felling, that tree looked like it was a good one for you to practice on. The basics are to notch the tree going 1/3 into the tree on the side where the tree wants to fall. Then cut the wedge. From there, you cut from the backside but don't cut on the same level. Go up a couple inches higher than that first cut you made. As you make that back cut, don't cut all the way through. Cut to within a couple inches of where that wedge is and the tree should fall. The part you didn't cut will act as a hinge, keeping the tree falling in the direction you want it to. Sometimes you need to use a wedge or two but I rarely use a wedge for felling. However, I won't hesitate to use them if needed. Most times the tree will have some lean and also a greater number of limbs on the leaning side. This way, Mother Nature has helped you in the felling of the tree. You'll do fine. Just be careful.
A word of caution, Before you ever make the first cut, remove anything that you might trip over. You want to move away from the tree as it starts to fall. But remember, you do not go straight back nor do you go straight sideways. You want your escape route to be at an angle (45) going away from the tree. Funny that one fellow who I thought knew better turned out to not be so smart. Seems he always cut then ran straight back from the falling tree. Then he complained because he had been hit a few times. "You can't outrun those limbs," said he. Naturally, I then informed him of the proper way to back away from the falling tree.
Another caution. Always look the tree over and also where it will be falling. Are there any dead limbs? Remember that those can and no doubt will be coming toward Mother Earth. If they are on the tree you are cutting, the vibration from cutting could knock them loose. You do not want to be beneath those. On the surrounding trees, limbs could be broken as the tree falls. You don't want to be in the way of those either.
As for the felling, that tree looked like it was a good one for you to practice on. The basics are to notch the tree going 1/3 into the tree on the side where the tree wants to fall. Then cut the wedge. From there, you cut from the backside but don't cut on the same level. Go up a couple inches higher than that first cut you made. As you make that back cut, don't cut all the way through. Cut to within a couple inches of where that wedge is and the tree should fall. The part you didn't cut will act as a hinge, keeping the tree falling in the direction you want it to. Sometimes you need to use a wedge or two but I rarely use a wedge for felling. However, I won't hesitate to use them if needed. Most times the tree will have some lean and also a greater number of limbs on the leaning side. This way, Mother Nature has helped you in the felling of the tree. You'll do fine. Just be careful.
A word of caution, Before you ever make the first cut, remove anything that you might trip over. You want to move away from the tree as it starts to fall. But remember, you do not go straight back nor do you go straight sideways. You want your escape route to be at an angle (45) going away from the tree. Funny that one fellow who I thought knew better turned out to not be so smart. Seems he always cut then ran straight back from the falling tree. Then he complained because he had been hit a few times. "You can't outrun those limbs," said he. Naturally, I then informed him of the proper way to back away from the falling tree.
Another caution. Always look the tree over and also where it will be falling. Are there any dead limbs? Remember that those can and no doubt will be coming toward Mother Earth. If they are on the tree you are cutting, the vibration from cutting could knock them loose. You do not want to be beneath those. On the surrounding trees, limbs could be broken as the tree falls. You don't want to be in the way of those either.
Definitely an ash tree, and a nice looking firewood tree to boot! As Dennis said, be careful when felling trees. For beginners, make your wedge cut on the leaning side of the tree, also make sure the top weight is on that side of the tree too. Don't bring your back cut the whole way through...leave some hinge wood for the tree to pivot on as it is falling.
As for the ash borer, it's already begun it's devestation here in central PA. I've had to remove three on our property, and the big one at my brother's place is getting less and less full every year. Just a matter of time. The EAB lives in the layer between the bark and the sapwood. Like Dennis said, it leaves a zig-zaggety, maze-like path behind itself. Peel off some bark, you'll see what I mean if the tree has EAB....
As for the ash borer, it's already begun it's devestation here in central PA. I've had to remove three on our property, and the big one at my brother's place is getting less and less full every year. Just a matter of time. The EAB lives in the layer between the bark and the sapwood. Like Dennis said, it leaves a zig-zaggety, maze-like path behind itself. Peel off some bark, you'll see what I mean if the tree has EAB....
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