Hello again, Today I had my chimmney installed and for some reason my installer changed the setup. Instead of using wall brackets that came further out so he could go straight up passed the gutter. He did a 15° offset passed the gutter. Well I guess it's not the end of the world but I hope it works well. I didn't like how he put 2 x 4 blocks to put the wall brackets to the siding. He said it will hold up better Plus come off the siding better for the offset. Oh well. Anyway he put selkirk sure-temp double insulated pipe. He has a 4 foot horizontal run from the wall thimble to the tee. There is a 1 inch rise as is described in the stove manual to do. He said with this type of locking pipe it's hard to get a big rise out of it. But he was able to get an inch rise which it says 1/4 inch rise for every foot in the manual. From the top of the tee to the cap is 20ft I think that will give me good draft. I have to wait for him to install the stove because he had the wrong size double black pipe from the stove to the 90° elbow. With the pipe the way it is i put a Lit match in front of the pipe opening and it sucked in the flame and blew out the match. I hear a swooshing sound and has a good strong draft. I just hope it stays that way.
Treemoss install update
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Backwoods Savage
Minister of Fire
Hopefully this will all work out well. For now you'll have to wait and see but it sounds pretty good for the draft. If it is good now, it will be even better when the outside air is cold.
Trilifter7
Feeling the Heat
The draft will get much stronger as it gets colder! The greater the temperature differential between your house and the outside air, the better the draft. It's not directly affected that way but its an easy way to remember it
It is actually a pretty scary looking install, in my opinion. That offset section has no support for a long way, which I believe is why they don't permit exterior installation. It is about the design of the offsets and the need for support.
For sure, the attachment of the wall support bracket is, unconventional (upside down).
I think he put the 2x4s on the siding to clear the gutter.
For sure, the attachment of the wall support bracket is, unconventional (upside down).
I think he put the 2x4s on the siding to clear the gutter.
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Machria
Minister of Fire
It is pretty plain in the Supervent/Superpro install guide to never offset an exterior chimney. Not sure on the Suretemp line.
Good to know. I couldn't find that in the online install guide or mention of it in their catalog list but don't doubt it might be in there somewhere.
Dix
Minister of Fire
IMHO, you better have excellent firewood.
Have you checked any of those Craigs list links I posted? Or the Envi Bricks?
Have you checked any of those Craigs list links I posted? Or the Envi Bricks?
Sorry about this link, but it is the best I can do at the moment. This is the book I have at home, that came with Supervent stuff. Pages 7-9.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...vYHACQ&usg=AFQjCNFFDGcPar-I1Ip-PKbRxfsa_vIMWw
Yep it is in there. Didn't doubt ya I just couldn't find it.
NOTE: NEVER OFFSET AN EXTERIOR CHIMNEY.
The SuperVent/SuperPro Adjustable Wall Support will support up to
38 feet of chimney, all of which must be above the support with the
exception of the 1 foot cleanout section and/or the Insulated Tee Plug,
which is installed below the support.
NOTE: NEVER OFFSET AN EXTERIOR CHIMNEY.
The SuperVent/SuperPro Adjustable Wall Support will support up to
38 feet of chimney, all of which must be above the support with the
exception of the 1 foot cleanout section and/or the Insulated Tee Plug,
which is installed below the support.
If the wall support is the same, it comes in three pieces. The plate that supports the pipe sits on top of the angled sides. Being upside down, all the weight is carried by the four 1/4" bolts that put it together.
Maybe it is a different support. Can't tell from the pic.
Edit- nevermind, I just found instructions that say the bracket can be inverted.
Maybe it is a different support. Can't tell from the pic.
Edit- nevermind, I just found instructions that say the bracket can be inverted.
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When we first installed our Class A Selkirk Supervent from Lowes, I had a friend in the HVAC industry help me with it. We put it up with a similar offset. After re-reading the manual - which does not permit exterior offsets - and discussing it here on the forum, we took everything down to below the overhang and went straight up through the eves. It was a lot more work but it was worth it for the peace of mind.
Hello all, I spoke to the Selkirk people today and they said that they show the offsets inside only in the manual. But you can install sure-temp pipe outside. It's just the bracing part for the offset on the outside they don't sell so that's why they only show it inside only. Other pipe that they sell cannot be set up outside with offsets but this type of pipe you can. They said your installer will have to set up a wall brace that will hold the offset run for support. So I am having the installer put a brace some where in between the 2 15° offsets as the Selkirk people said to.
As for the tee brace he said you can put it upside down for my Application that is no problem. So with the selkirk people saying its ok then i guess its ok. I still can't believe the draft this pipe is pulling. It is pulling all my cold air from my AC out of the house.
As for the tee brace he said you can put it upside down for my Application that is no problem. So with the selkirk people saying its ok then i guess its ok. I still can't believe the draft this pipe is pulling. It is pulling all my cold air from my AC out of the house.
I'm glad that worked out for you. Been thinking about it all day. Hope everything from this point forward is smooth sailing.
I think you'll be fine. I was hesitant to say anything about it, but I can't imagine any significant difference between offsetting inside and offsetting outside, assuming the chimney is supported. It sounds like you're going to have it locked down, so that shouldn't be a concern. The horizontal run is odd, but I would have done the same in your shoes. There's no other reasonable way to go. I really doubt the offset around the eve could have any appreciable affect. Sometimes you have to work with you have.
I hope so too, I will post pics and info when I get things up and running. Thank you and everyone else for all your help and Guidance thru this.
That is good to know. I wonder what makes it different from supervent and ultratemp elbows?
I'm surprised they said it was okay. I called them to ask about just using a different roof flashing and storm collar, and the answer I got was 'no, each brand is all engineered as a system. You can't interchange any of it. The UL listing will be voided.' I suppose that is true, but....
I did find install instructions for the suretemp wall support bracket, and it is completely different from the supervent that I have. There is no way I would install the supervent support upside down.
I have a 3' horizontal run out of my basement for a Hotblast furnace. That also has a rear exit flue collar, and even with another 90, I never really had any draft issues. I did have to burn a sheet of newspaper to warm the pipe and start it drafting right, if the furnace was stone cold. Other than that it always worked fine. That is an EPA-exempt unit, though, and not as sensitive to draft issues as an EPA stove can be.
I'm surprised they said it was okay. I called them to ask about just using a different roof flashing and storm collar, and the answer I got was 'no, each brand is all engineered as a system. You can't interchange any of it. The UL listing will be voided.' I suppose that is true, but....
I did find install instructions for the suretemp wall support bracket, and it is completely different from the supervent that I have. There is no way I would install the supervent support upside down.
I have a 3' horizontal run out of my basement for a Hotblast furnace. That also has a rear exit flue collar, and even with another 90, I never really had any draft issues. I did have to burn a sheet of newspaper to warm the pipe and start it drafting right, if the furnace was stone cold. Other than that it always worked fine. That is an EPA-exempt unit, though, and not as sensitive to draft issues as an EPA stove can be.
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