M55C surge protector

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jeanine

Member
Aug 24, 2013
122
long island ny
The surge protector that was suggested to me is great, but it does not fit in the outlet where the stove is because of the vent pipes behind it. Can anyone suggest the strip kind that lay on the floor????
 
Can anyone suggest the strip kind that lay on the floor????
A protector strip selling in Walmart for about $10 is equivalent to that Tripplite. And, like the Tripplite, also does not claim to protect from a type of surge that typically does damage. If a stove needs protection, then so does the refrigerator, dimmer switches, dishwasher, furnace, and every GFCI. What protects them? A completely different device, also called a surge protector, that attaches to the breaker box. That has the always required low impedance (ie 'less than 10 foot') connection to earth. That protects from all types of surges. That protects everything (including the Tripplite). And that costs about $1 per protected appliance.

What happens to a Tripplite when a destructive surge (maybe hundreds of thousands of joules) occurs? Read its spec numbers. At 1400 joules, it only absorbs 470 joules and never more than 940 joules. So what happens during a typically destructive surge (hundreds of thousands of joules)? Either it disconnects from a surge as fast as possible; leaving the surge connected to other appliances. Or does not disconnect fast enough; creates a fire. Informed consumers earth one 'whole house' protector (a completely different device unfortunately with a same name) so that surges are not even inside the building. So that even a low joule Tripplite and other appliances (even all clocks) are protected. What most needs protection during a surge? All smoke detectors.
 
A protector strip selling in Walmart for about $10 is equivalent to that Tripplite. And, like the Tripplite, also does not claim to protect from a type of surge that typically does damage. If a stove needs protection, then so does the refrigerator, dimmer switches, dishwasher, furnace, and every GFCI. What protects them? A completely different device, also called a surge protector, that attaches to the breaker box. That has the always required low impedance (ie 'less than 10 foot') connection to earth. That protects from all types of surges. That protects everything (including the Tripplite). And that costs about $1 per protected appliance.

What happens to a Tripplite when a destructive surge (maybe hundreds of thousands of joules) occurs? Read its spec numbers. At 1400 joules, it only absorbs 470 joules and never more than 940 joules. So what happens during a typically destructive surge (hundreds of thousands of joules)? Either it disconnects from a surge as fast as possible; leaving the surge connected to other appliances. Or does not disconnect fast enough; creates a fire. Informed consumers earth one 'whole house' protector (a completely different device unfortunately with a same name) so that surges are not even inside the building. So that even a low joule Tripplite and other appliances (even all clocks) are protected. What most needs protection during a surge? All smoke detectors.
o ok,so that device that gets connected to breaker box does that have to be installed by a professional or can a homeowner do it himself???? where can you get that? home depot? thanks for the tip:)
 
o ok,so that device that gets connected to breaker box does that have to be installed by a professional or can a homeowner do it himself???? where can you get that? home depot?
First let's be quite clear what actually does protection; what actually absorbs energy.. No protector does that protection. An effective protector connects to what does protection (what absorbs energy). And what should have most attention: single point earth ground.

'Whole house' protectors are manufactured by a long list of companies known for better integrity. Including Intermatic, Siemens, ABB, Ditek, Polyphaser, General Electric, Square D, Syscom, Leviton, and Square D. These can be purchased in most any electrical supply house. An effective Cutler-Hammer (Eaton) device sells in both Lowes and Home Depot. (Ironically, one Lowes store told me theft of these devices is significant. So it might be in a secure location.)

Earth ground determines protection during each surge. Life expectancy of a protector is defined by its current rating. Since a typical lightning strike may be 20,000 amps, then a minimal 'whole house' protector is 50,000 amps. Because effective protectors must connect a surge low impedance (ie 'less than 10 feet') to earth. And remain functional.

Defined is a 'system'. Components include protector, wire, and electrodes. Connecting an AC surge current to earth means that 'whole house' protector that is installed by the homeowner (if comfortable clicking and wiring breakers into the box) or is installed by an electrician. Another alternative is a 'whole house' protector rented from the AC utility. Installed by them behind the electric meter.

For the system to be effective, all connections to earth must be low impedance (ie no sharp wire bends) and short to a single point ground. That means a telco 'installed for free' protector also must connect low impedance to the same electrode. Cable and satellite dish need no protector to make that connection. Both are connected only by a wire, again, directly and low impedance to the same electrodes.

Appreciate that some electricians are not taught basic and relevant electrical concepts. Find and follow a bare copper, quarter inch wire that connects the breaker box to the earthing electrode. If that wire goes up over the foundation and down to earth, then protection is compromised. That wire is too long, has sharp bends over the foundation, and is probably bundled with other non-grounding wires. It meets code. But is insufficient also for surge protection. A better informed electrician would route that ground wire through the foundation and down to earthing electrodes. Then a connection is low impedance.

Protectors are simple science. The 'art' (what actually does protection) is single point earth ground and connections to it. A protector simply does to what a wire would otherwise do better. Most important is that connection to and quality of earthing electrodes (that also can be purchased in the same above stores).
 
First let's be quite clear what actually does protection; what actually absorbs energy.. No protector does that protection. An effective protector connects to what does protection (what absorbs energy). And what should have most attention: single point earth ground.

'Whole house' protectors are manufactured by a long list of companies known for better integrity. Including Intermatic, Siemens, ABB, Ditek, Polyphaser, General Electric, Square D, Syscom, Leviton, and Square D. These can be purchased in most any electrical supply house. An effective Cutler-Hammer (Eaton) device sells in both Lowes and Home Depot. (Ironically, one Lowes store told me theft of these devices is significant. So it might be in a secure location.)

Earth ground determines protection during each surge. Life expectancy of a protector is defined by its current rating. Since a typical lightning strike may be 20,000 amps, then a minimal 'whole house' protector is 50,000 amps. Because effective protectors must connect a surge low impedance (ie 'less than 10 feet') to earth. And remain functional.

Defined is a 'system'. Components include protector, wire, and electrodes. Connecting an AC surge current to earth means that 'whole house' protector that is installed by the homeowner (if comfortable clicking and wiring breakers into the box) or is installed by an electrician. Another alternative is a 'whole house' protector rented from the AC utility. Installed by them behind the electric meter.

For the system to be effective, all connections to earth must be low impedance (ie no sharp wire bends) and short to a single point ground. That means a telco 'installed for free' protector also must connect low impedance to the same electrode. Cable and satellite dish need no protector to make that connection. Both are connected only by a wire, again, directly and low impedance to the same electrodes.

Appreciate that some electricians are not taught basic and relevant electrical concepts. Find and follow a bare copper, quarter inch wire that connects the breaker box to the earthing electrode. If that wire goes up over the foundation and down to earth, then protection is compromised. That wire is too long, has sharp bends over the foundation, and is probably bundled with other non-grounding wires. It meets code. But is insufficient also for surge protection. A better informed electrician would route that ground wire through the foundation and down to earthing electrodes. Then a connection is low impedance.

Protectors are simple science. The 'art' (what actually does protection) is single point earth ground and connections to it. A protector simply does to what a wire would otherwise do better. Most important is that connection to and quality of earthing electrodes (that also can be purchased in the same above stores).
alot of information to think about thank you :)
 
alot of information to think about thank you :)
Appreciate why so many, instead, listen to sound bytes from salesmen. How protection works is more complex. An involves something many forget because they do not see it - earth ground. Some would rather ignore a concept (originally introduced in elementary school science using Ben Franklin's lightning rod). Instead use sound byte logic. Surge protector sound like surge protection. So it must be same. Others told me; so it must be a good solution. It has a big buck warranty so it must be better.

Reasons why the proven solution works may appear to be complex. But the actual installation is extremely simple. So simple that many may observe it. And not realize so much science within that simple solution.
 
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