NC-30 Smoke Spillage

[Soundchasm]

Make it big enough and it could be an awesome echo chamber for your recording...

Not to hijack the OP's thread, but that would be nearly where my handle comes from. It's that Wile E. Coyote moment where he holds up the sign that says "HELP!". That's how I feel in the space before the first note. In these days of impulse sampling to create artificial space, maybe I should sample 20 feet of class A chimney pipe and run my amps through it for that special sound!!

 

[dafattkidd]

BCC, any more spillage? Did removing the screening and installing the 45s illuminate the smoke spillage?

 

[BCC_Burner]

I still have the 90 in place, as I sealed all the joints with silicone sealant and can't pull the pieces apart without deforming the pipe. I have had 2 fires with the screen removed, the stovepipe sealed and the 90 in place and I have extremely minimal/non existent smoke spillage.

Had some really nice secondary action going last night with about a 40-50% full firebox. At 10pm I loaded it with 3 medium/large pine splits, 2 small silver maple uglies and a couple awkwardly shaped pieces of punky birch. Had the damper about 70-75% closed when I went to bed around 10:30, and at 7:00 when I came down I still had adequate coals to reload if needed and it was 76 degrees.

I still want to make the switch to the 2 45's just to shorten the horizontal run, so is there a solvent that breaks down this silicone sealant?

 

[BurnIt13]

I thought silicone sealant was a big NO-NO on stove pipe and chimney pipe pieces. I asked here and was unanimously told it wasn't a good idea. Even high temp isn't high temp enough.

But I'm thinking a chemical would even have a hard time on the silicone, you need it to get inside the joints to soften the silicone. Have you tried taking them apart? The heat may have compromised the silicone's grip.

 

[BCC_Burner]

This was the recommended product from the local stove shop where I purchased the pipe, owner said he had done thousands of installs using it to seal stove pipe joints, so I went with his advice. I don't have a lot of interior stove pipe, so I don't mind purchasing all new pieces to make my 45 change work, but I hate for this perfectly good stuff to go to waste.

 

[BurnIt13]

Can you post which product you used? I ask only because I will be resealing my stove pipe soon and would prefer a silicone-like sealant.

 

[BCC_Burner]

For sure, will snap a picture when I get home. I will point that my stove collar adapter fits very tightly and did not require any sealant, same with the joint between it and my 2 foot vertical piece. So the closest this silicone sealant is to the firebox is about 30 inches above it. Still exposed to very high heat obviously, but not the same as at the collar.

I would love some suggestions on how to potentially remove this stuff though.

 

[begreen]

I recently had to chip out some silicone used for a stove gasket. The stuff set up like cement. It was a pain to remove.

You might try flexing the pipe to see if you can get the stuff to start cracking. Bang with your hands around the joint or try to squeeze it a bit.

 

[Seasoned Oak]

It's puzzling to me that the stove seems to burn very well during normal, door closed operation, but the draft is still this weak.

THe 30 will operate just fine with weak draft as long as its not NO draft. I have one connected to a 12" square chimney,way larger than is recommended. It works just fine,no smoke spillage at all.

 

[Highbeam]

I still have the 90 in place, as I sealed all the joints with silicone sealant and can't pull the pieces apart without deforming the pipe. I have had 2 fires with the screen removed, the stovepipe sealed and the 90 in place and I have extremely minimal/non existent smoke spillage.

Had some really nice secondary action going last night with about a 40-50% full firebox. At 10pm I loaded it with 3 medium/large pine splits, 2 small silver maple uglies and a couple awkwardly shaped pieces of punky birch. Had the damper about 70-75% closed when I went to bed around 10:30, and at 7:00 when I came down I still had adequate coals to reload if needed and it was 76 degrees.

I still want to make the switch to the 2 45's just to shorten the horizontal run, so is there a solvent that breaks down this silicone sealant?

It's cheap single wall, cut it out and throw it away or leave it as is.

I have seen some how-to videos about single wall that show professionals applying silicone at every joint from a caulking tube and gun. It may have been high temp but I certainly put mine together dry.

 

[BCC_Burner]

Luckily I did not have to deal the joint at the stove, so I can remove the entire section of stovepipe easily. I will be doing this and installing the 2 45's. I originally installed all my stove pipe dry, which was great for the first couple fires. Then I must have had different degrees of expansion and contraction between the pieces, as I developed smoke leaks at a couple joints after a few fires. This inspired me to seal things up with the silicone. For $80 worth of stove pipe I'll just re-do it entirely when I get around to it.

On a side note, subalpine fir (or p*ss fir, as it is widely known out here), might just be among the worst firewood I've had the displeasure of burning. Luckily there's only about a face cord of it and it came with the house.