Stove pipe for Resulute III

[Clairee]

New here and really glad I found this forum - I've already gotten a lot of useful information about the Resolute III I just acquired so figured I'd join and ask for help setting it up. We've had Vermont Castings stoves for years and this one is replacing a Defiant (too big for this house). My husband always did the set up and cleaned the pipe/chimney while I took care of stove maintenance but he's recovering from surgery/serious illness so I need to learn about connecting and set up. The chimney was put in for a Resolute Acclaim so should work well for the Resolute III. The stove sits on 2 metal hearth pads and behind it is 5' high cement board spaced 2" from the plaster walls.

Anyway, first I have questions about stove pipe: the guy I got this Resolute from gave me a double wall 'collar' (? thing that fits over the flue opening?) he used but he kept the rest of the pipe for his new stove. We've always used single wall pipe and I'm wondering if there's any advantage to using the double wall pipe other than the obvious - clearance isn't an issue. I was told I don't need a collar because I can put the single wall pipe directly into the flue. The (single wall) 24" pipe (bought it before I got the stove into place) is about 3" too short because the Acclaim sat on a higher hearth so I'm assuming it would be better (and much easier!) to get longer pipe and cut it the right length (with tin snips?) rather than try to put something under the stove legs to raise it to the right height?

I'm sure I'll have more questions after I get the stove set up...TIA!

Claire

 

[webbie]

You should be able to use regular stove pipe and the crimped (or maybe even the uncrimped) end should fit right down inside the collar. A couple screws and furnace cement should be used to seal that juncture.

Sure, you can cut stovepipe to fit. It can be a little tough doing so.....but live and learn! If the pipe is snap-seam, you have to use a screwdriver or flat tool to open up the seam a bit after the tin snips flatten it.

If the chimney is straight up it can be hard to put the stove pipe in correctly without using a slip connector. This won't be the case if the pipe has an elbo in it, etc.

 

[Clairee]

You should be able to use regular stove pipe and the crimped (or maybe even the uncrimped) end should fit right down inside the collar. A couple screws and furnace cement should be used to seal that juncture.

Sure, you can cut stovepipe to fit. It can be a little tough doing so.....but live and learn! If the pipe is snap-seam, you have to use a screwdriver or flat tool to open up the seam a bit after the tin snips flatten it.

If the chimney is straight up it can be hard to put the stove pipe in correctly without using a slip connector. This won't be the case if the pipe has an elbo in it, etc.

Thanks for the reply - I have a lot to learn and/or remember, such as the 'magic trick' for snapping the seam into place. I realize now as I'm getting more familiar with this site I probably should have posted this question in the Hearth room forum so will ask further connector questions there.

 

[jersey tamato]

I have a resolute. my chimney pipe is 8" and the collar on the stove is a 6" oval. So I bought an adaptor and had to split the end going into the collar so it would be a tight fit. if I didn't, it wasn't fitting into the collar. Should I use some cement to tighten up the seam? When I put a flash light in there, the light is minimum.