My wood shed is leaking badly

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Well if you take some pics of the inside, and can swing a hammer, we can probably guide you on fixing this thing cheap. Since the shingles are new, they can be reused. You can probably frame up a new shed roof fairly cheaply if you reuse what you have.

shed15.jpg


Matt
 
I'd remove the shingles and just put roll roofing.
I
don't see enough pitch for shingles to work well. All you need with little pitch is for one or more to curl and you have water finding its way under the upper course.

There's always a bright blue tarp too. Wifee might buy you some more roll roofing and a can or two of tar.. :)
 
Ok, so a buddy of mine gave me extra roll roofing he had laying around, this still confuses me though. How is this stuff any different than just shingles, it looks like one long piece of shingle. Please see photo below.

So, how do i go about this? Remove shingles! do i lay something down before the roll roofing? Based on what you see , what should I do? Please.
 

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Ok, so a buddy of mine gave me extra roll roofing he had laying around, this still confuses me though. How is this stuff any different than just shingles, it looks like one long piece of shingle. Please see photo below.

So, how do i go about this? Remove shingles! do i lay something down before the roll roofing? Based on what you see , what should I do? Please.
http://www.wikihow.com/Apply-Rolled-Roofing
 
I'd remove the shingles and just put roll roofing.
I
don't see enough pitch for shingles to work well. All you need with little pitch is for one or more to curl and you have water finding its way under the upper course.

There's always a bright blue tarp too. Wifee might buy you some more roll roofing and a can or two of tar.. :)

i guess this is what I'm looking to figure out. if the pitch is not enough for singles, how Will this be any different?
 
i guess this is what I'm looking to figure out. if the pitch is not enough for singles, how Will this be any different?

shingles have little dots of tar/glue to keep themselves glued down so water sheds off with pitch.
with roll roofing, if you've properly tarred and nailed the seam(s) water won't blow nor seep back up that slight angle.
leaking back in thru your roof material, if that is what is happening. Big IF.
 
I would just lay a heavy tarp over it for now and wait till spring and then add more pitch to the roof.
Job Lots or Northern tool sells those Shelter Logic tarps.
 
shingles have little dots of tar/glue to keep themselves glued down so water sheds off with pitch.
with roll roofing, if you've properly tarred and nailed the seam(s) water won't blow nor seep back up that slight angle.
leaking back in thru your roof material, if that is what is happening. Big IF.

I live in NY and it's been in the mid 30's during the day, isn't it a little cold to tar?
 
A very long time ago- we used a hot plate ( on low, iirc ) to warm the cans up with nail holes punched in the top of the can so it would run out in a thin line. Wasn't Winter.
 
I roof part time. I'm not driving to NY but if you send me a message I will give you my phone number. I can walk a monkey through installing roll roofing.
 
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It's under 30 degrees today, I think I'm just going to tarp it for the winter, fix it in the warmer weather.
 
Another question: I have a cord of seasoned wood being delivered today, is it appropriate to pull out my moisture meter, split a piece with the guy there? And if so what % should I accept? He said it was split before October of last year, and stacked on pallets. Charging 180 delivered.
 
Whatever the heck you do, don't make the mistake most people do when they shingle a roof and not give yourself enough overhang at the bottom drip edge of the roof. Looking at the picture you posted it looks like you have too much overhang on the gable sides, and no overhang on the bottom edges where you really need it. On the gable sides (the sloping sides) you want to have about 3/4" overhang on your roofing material, be it shingles or roll roofing, and on the bottom drip edge The edge where the water will be dripping, I would leave about 1" minimum. If you don't leave enough over hang at the drip edge the water will flow back and and possibly under the shingles and down the wall, and will eventually rot all the wood it comes in contact with.
Not having that drip edge is the most common mistake people make when doing their own roofing projects.
There is metal drip edging you can also install, but it's not absolutely necessary..
The important thing is to leave enough roofing material overhanging that the water drips clear of the wood.
set_overhang.jpg
 
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Another question: I have a cord of seasoned wood being delivered today, is it appropriate to pull out my moisture meter, split a piece with the guy there? And if so what % should I accept? He said it was split before October of last year, and stacked on pallets. Charging 180 delivered.
absolutely,test that wood.
 
Another question: I have a cord of seasoned wood being delivered today, is it appropriate to pull out my moisture meter, split a piece with the guy there? And if so what % should I accept? He said it was split before October of last year, and stacked on pallets. Charging 180 delivered.
Anything under 20% is good to go, between 20% and 25% is gray area, and over 25% is not considered "seasoned".
 
Heres some numbers:
Gray birch cut in April --23%
Black birch cut 9-2012-- 19.8% on large unsplit round. 17% on a large split.
Oak splits on 8-24-12 --23% 21% 21.5%
Black cherry split 9-15-12 ---15.3%
Red Elm cut in 11-2012 but split 3-2013 at 20.5%

used a General MM Lowes $29.00
The gray birch is a no go. Isnt burning well. Red Elm burns but leaves buildup on glass. A not so good.
Not burning the Oak yet. And cherry is doing great as usual And black birch is holding the fort with hot fires.
Anything over 21-22% seems to add creosote to inside of stove. I have nonCAT none secondary pipes in an older airtight stove.
 
If you get readings that are higher you can dicker the price down, if the guy has good wood. And then season it yourself.
You can ask for better seasoned wood.
Or just refuse the wood. Warn the guy ahead of time that you will meter test the wood.
To save both of you aggrevation.
 
Warn the guy ahead of time that you will meter test the wood.
.

^^^THIS.
It will also give the supplier the opportunity to bring the very best he has to offer to somebody he KNOWS is checking the quality of the wood (and cares about it).
 
Constantly amazes me how people build something wrong then expect an easy solution to the problem caused by the poor design or material used. Yes, I'm a contractor and see it all the time.
gzecc, not getting personal but you commented on how "amateurs" are always wanting an easy fix. Well it constantly amazes me how contractors always overbooking jobs? Working a few hours each day on several jobs and taking so long to complete anyone of them quickly. Guess I just got burned, maybe all aren't that way but most are. Probably wrong place to post this.....:) Don't want to start a war just my 2 cents.
 
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Ok, I tarped the shed. Looking a little ghetto.
 

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So before he dumps just grab a piece split it and meter it. It'll be kind of hard to send the guy away
 
I've absolutely had it. I tarped the shed, nice and tight, stapled down on the sides, no overlaps and somehow water is still getting in. Unbelievable. Heavy duty tarp from HD.

On a brighter note, the wood guy that was supposed to come, bailed on me so I found someone on craigs to deliver on a friday, moisture was on the higher side, about 28 but i took it and it burns great. Only issue is a lot of it is really big pieces and a lot of long pieces that i'll have to saw in half.
 
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