Buck 27000

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Captain

New Member
Jul 13, 2008
55
Central Ohio
Hey fellows. I ended up getting a Buck 27000 that I got a great deal on. It is in outstanding condition and I picked it up for $200. I really wanted a newer more efficient stove but I thought this was a great deal, and I'm on a budget.

Just a few questions. I currently do not have a chimney. Will stainless lined triple wall be sufficient for this stove? BTW, It already has the adapter to go from square to the round stove pipe.

Also, any other tips on this stove? I've read a few posts on here about it that has me a bit concerned about building up creosote bad and chimney fires. I need a pad for this thing too and am looking to get that set up too.
 
A double wall stainless steel class A flue will be required with a single or double wall connector pipe attached to the stove. We need more details about the installation to make more comments. Do you have the manufacturer's specs for the hearth?

If you want to avoid chimney fires, only burn dry, seasoned wood, try to keep the flue pipe indoors for as long as is reasonable, and don't choke the stove right down so that it smolders. If you see no smoke out of the flue cap, then it is probably burning as clean as it can.
 
Well here is the specs taken from the Buck manual. I will be putting the stove in my living room, and will run the pipe straight up through the ceiling and roof. I have a ranch style house.
 

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I have the same stove, and it has been doing fine. I can give you some tips on operating it, if you like.
 
brooktrout said:
I have the same stove, and it has been doing fine. I can give you some tips on operating it, if you like.
Sure thing I'm open to suggestions and want to operate this thing safely.
 
Okay, well here goes. First off, this SOB likes to run HOT. It's in it's nature. :coolgrin: External door temps with a magnetic thermometer routinely run 700-750. The blower does a good job of dispersing this vast amount of heat throughout my 1200sf farmhouse. No box fans needed. When you reload, unplug the fan before opening the doors, as it sometimes sucks in and blows around the ash. Not a whole lot, but some. Start out with the two draft sliders wide open, and the damper lever all the way in. After 15 mins, close the damper (pull it out) but leave the draft sliders open. After another 15 mins, cut the draft down 1/2, then again. Wash. Rinse. Repeat.

This stove is virtually indestructable. You will want to replace the glass gaskets with small diameter rope, as the ones Buck makes don't seal well. Not even new. Be sure to tighten the screws around the glass snug, but careful. Replace the gasket around the rectangular outlet in back, as well. When you replace the gasket around the door opening u-channel, you'll likely find that the doors will bind pretty hard for a while until the gasket breaks in. I'm going to grind down the outer edges of my doors on the inside lip to prevent this for this season, which will also give me a tighter seal in the middle where the doors meet. You'll see what I mean. At nite, or at work, you can close the draft all the way, because the doors are designed to still allow a small amount of air in. Examine it closely, you will see that it is not truly air-tight. I plan on modifying mine to make it such.

The three speed fan will come on by itself, though sometimes I flip it on manual if I become too impatient. This stove can really throw heat- I can raise the temp in the house 15 degrees in 45mins! In fact, my kids once got "sun burned" playing a board game on the floor 8 feet away from the stove :bug: You will be amazed at how much wood you can stuff in this beast- I think I calculated the firebox at some 4.5 cubic feet. Oh yeah- another modification worth considering- a bracket that run down the middle of the opening (removable, or pivoting) where the doors meet to allow maximum stuffage of the cavernous firebox. Well, good luck- like I said, mine runs great- I really love it. Of course, a new stove would use less wood, but we can't always get what we want. If I think of anything else, I'll PM ya. Any other questions, you do the same. Brooktrout over and out.
 
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Brooktrout, thanks buddy for all that good info! I'll have print that off man that's great. People are so helpful on this site.

I've got a house that's a little over a 1000 sf and was wondering if I'll totally run myself out of there or if this will be a good fit. Also, how much wood do you usually burn in a season?
 
About 5-6 cord. We keep the house in the low 70's when we're home. last year only used 40 gallons oil between Jan and April.
 
I am looking for a housing for my 27000 buck fireplace insert. I bought this stove at a great price without the motor, fans, and housing. I bought everything accept the housing. I have searched everywhere. I found out they are not being manufactured anymore. Where can I find one? Am I going to have to make my own?!
 
Hey jlfritz, I think you called me about the motor housing. Sorry I didn't have one. I don't know what's up with those things, but they are certainly not available right now. We sold the last of ours early last fall. Really hot, if you need any parts for the stove, call me. I'm not trying to advertise or anything, just trying to be helpful. We've been selling buck for 32 years. We can answer any questions you have about the stove as well. Good luck with it. Sounds like you got a great deal on a great stove. They don't make 'em like they used to!
 
Okay, well here goes. First off, this SOB likes to run HOT. It's in it's nature. :coolgrin: External door temps with a magnetic thermometer routinely run 700-750. The blower does a good job of dispersing this vast amount of heat throughout my 1200sf farmhouse. No box fans needed. When you reload, unplug the fan before opening the doors, as it sometimes sucks in and blows around the ash. Not a whole lot, but some. Start out with the two draft sliders wide open, and the damper lever all the way in. After 15 mins, close the damper (pull it out) but leave the draft sliders open. After another 15 mins, cut the draft down 1/2, then again. Wash. Rinse. Repeat. This stove is virtually indestructable. You will want to replace the glass gaskets with small diameter rope, as the ones Buck makes don't seal well. Not even new. Be sure to tighten the screws around the glass snug, but careful. Replace the gasket around the rectangular outlet in back, as well. When you replace the gasket around the door opening u-channel, you'll likely find that the doors will bind pretty hard for a while until the gasket breaks in. I'm going to grind down the outer edges of my doors on the inside lip to prevent this for this season, which will also give me a tighter seal in the middle where the doors meet. You'll see what I mean. At nite, or at work, you can close the draft all the way, because the doors are designed to still allow a small amount of air in. Examine it closely, you will see that it is not truly air-tight. I plan on modifying mine to make it such. The three speed fan will come on by itself, though sometimes I flip it on manual if I become too impatient. This stove can really throw heat- I can raise the temp in the house 15 degrees in 45mins! In fact, my kids once got "sun burned" playing a board game on the floor 8 feet away from the stove :bug: You will be amazed at how much wood you can stuff in this beast- I think I calculated the firebox at some 4.5 cubic feet. Oh yeah- another modification worth considering- a bracket that run down the middle of the opening (removable, or pivoting) where the doors meet to allow maximum stuffage of the cavernous firebox. Well, good luck- like I said, mine runs great- I really love it. Of course, a new stove would use less wood, but we can't always get what we want. If I think of anything else, I'll PM ya. Any other questions, you do the same. Brooktrout over and out.
Hi. I know this is a longshot that you still are in this site but is it safe to load your buck 27000 packed full for the night? It got really hot when I put a lot in it and I'm new at this so I was very uncomfortable and nervous. Just want a pro to tell me it's ok.
 
Hi. I know this is a longshot that you still are in this site but is it safe to load your buck 27000 packed full for the night? It got really hot when I put a lot in it and I'm new at this so I was very uncomfortable and nervous. Just want a pro to tell me it's ok.
Make sure that your gasket has a good seal and that have good control of the air intake and it should be fine.
I've packed mine full many, many times.
 
Make sure that your gasket has a good seal and that have good control of the air intake and it should be fine.
I've packed mine full many, many times.
The gasket around where the doors close? Looks like some kind of rope up top and along both sides and what seems to be a smeared version of rope along the bottom. It even god my brick above my stove hot and has never done that before. Made me nervous. Shut slots on the doors all the way and stayed up until the blower kicked down to 2nd gear and it actually stayed warm for 7 hours. Only been getting around 2 hours burn in average. I'm sure it's something I'm doing wrong or not educated on. I'll take ALL the info you wish to write. Lol. Thanks for what you have already helped me with.
 
Yep, the gasket around where the doors close. should be one piece of rope gasket covering sides and top and a flat gasket across the bottom.
If you have the air inlets shut down completely and the fire is still raging, I'd assume that air is getting past the gaskets. I noticed a huge difference the first time I changed the gaskets on my Buck. The stove design allows air to get in where the 2 doors meet and not a lot can be done about that except to glue a gasket to the right door.
Stove temps on my Buck usually average 450F on top and 500F on the front, above the doors.
Using very dry wood and having a good, tight seal, I can get 5 to 6 hours of usable heat from my Buck.
 
Yep, the gasket around where the doors close. should be one piece of rope gasket covering sides and top and a flat gasket across the bottom.
If you have the air inlets shut down completely and the fire is still raging, I'd assume that air is getting past the gaskets. I noticed a huge difference the first time I changed the gaskets on my Buck. The stove design allows air to get in where the 2 doors meet and not a lot can be done about that except to glue a gasket to the right door.
Stove temps on my Buck usually average 450F on top and 500F on the front, above the doors.
Using very dry wood and having a good, tight seal, I can get 5 to 6 hours of usable heat from my Buck.
That's GREAT info. Thank you. Where could I find new gasket and is it easy to instal? So it's on for the stove to be really hot and making little noises???
 
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