Removing the Harman Combustion Blower? What is the best way?

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Don2222

Minister of Fire
Feb 1, 2010
9,110
Salem NH
Hello

It seems that because the blades are not in a sealed plenum like other stoves these blowers last longer. However changing them is not as easy as removing a few nuts or screws like other stoves.

I manually brushed the set screw with a small wire brush and sprayed PB blaster on it and left it overnight.
Saw this post
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...wer-fan-blade-cleaning-or-removal-tips.66633/

Have not tried a torch yet.

The allen wrench still will not budge. When this happened on other stoves, I just cut the shaft off.

However in this case, the set screw must come out to get the blower out.
Because of that, I cannot get a hacksaw on the shaft. Is there any way to get a tool in there behind the blades to just cut the shaft off?

See pics below.

Luckily it is not noisy like this one!

 

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Hello

I finally cracked it.
What did it for me was to use a wire brush on the drill to really dig into the sides of the set screw. This stove is quite a few years old so I would assume this method will work on most stoves!
You can get this brush at Lowes
http://www.lowes.com/pd_445713-48246-KDT2313_4294715832__?productId=4714677&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=

Soaking with PC blaster over night still helps but digging in with the wire brush to minimze the oxidation build up is key to cracking the set screw.
Once I loosened the set screw it all came off easily!

See pics!

Easy Peasy with the right stuff!
 

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Hello

Well, I guess you know where I go from there, but here are the pics to show!

Knock down ash and rust with manual wire brush
Use drill/driver wire wheel to really get it clean.
Smooth down with emory cloth. Any ruffness in the chamber impedes air flow.
Clean up with Acetone
Coat sides and behind impeller with Dry Moly Spray.
Throw on some new impeller blades when the old ones are real rusty. Again rust impedes air flow. New blades are only $25.00
Coat both sides of new or old blades with Dry Moly Spray. Adds protection and gives a real slick surface!
Put back with a drop of oil on the set screw and bingo. A real professional Job!
Next time it will come off easy!
 

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Hello

Here is the final pic with the Combustion Intake Weldment Retainer painted flat black with VHT very high temperature for car headers.

This is now clean, lubricated, and spray protected against more buildup!
 

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To remove the old fan when unable to remove the set screw would be to grind the fan shaft down to as near the motor shaft. You won't be able to drill the set screw out as the metal is too hard.
 
Anti seize is our friend! I use it on almost everything!
 
Hello

I finally cracked it.
What did it for me was to use a wire brush on the drill to really dig into the sides of the set screw. This stove is quite a few years old so I would assume this method will work on most stoves!
You can get this brush at Lowes
http://www.lowes.com/pd_445713-48246-KDT2313_4294715832__?productId=4714677&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=

Soaking with PC blaster over night still helps but digging in with the wire brush to minimze the oxidation build up is key to cracking the set screw.
Once I loosened the set screw it all came off easily!

See pics!

Easy Peasy with the right stuff!

Thanks,
The combustion blower on my Harman Pellet Pro Plus started making a real grinding sound.
I have had the stove for 9 years and used it every winter, Maine winters are pretty long so the fan has really worked hard.
I used the PB Blaster bought at Home Depot for around $4.00.
I also bought a set of hex (Allen) keys/wrenches. the set included both metric and sae. I chose a fairly long set for better leverage.
I used a 1/8 Allen wrench -- thanks to another thread on the forums that specified the size ;)
13360408725_ba4e352023_n.jpg

You can see the new one is considerable longer than the original one I had. Better leverage and between this and the PB blaster, the set screw came out pretty easily.

I thought I would add this comment in case anybody else has the same problem.
Don't forget to remove the blower cover and latch first.
Thanks to all at Hearth.com, my new combustion blower is on the way and I am ready to reinstall, thankfully this was at the end of the season not right in the middle.
 
Thanks,
The combustion blower on my Harman Pellet Pro Plus started making a real grinding sound.
I have had the stove for 9 years and used it every winter, Maine winters are pretty long so the fan has really worked hard.
I used the PB Blaster bought at Home Depot for around $4.00.
I also bought a set of hex (Allen) keys/wrenches. the set included both metric and sae. I chose a fairly long set for better leverage.
I used a 1/8 Allen wrench -- thanks to another thread on the forums that specified the size ;)
13360408725_ba4e352023_n.jpg

You can see the new one is considerable longer than the original one I had. Better leverage and between this and the PB blaster, the set screw came out pretty easily.

I thought I would add this comment in case anybody else has the same problem.
Don't forget to remove the blower cover and latch first.
Thanks to all at Hearth.com, my new combustion blower is on the way and I am ready to reinstall, thankfully this was at the end of the season not right in the middle.
Did you get the upgraded 1.75 amp motor or the old 1.5 amp job?
 
Did you get the upgraded 1.75 amp motor or the old 1.5 amp job?
i believe the 1.75 upgraded. I queried whether the circuit board would have to be upgraded to handle the increased amperage and they said "no". Hoping they are right.
 
Don - I had the same problem with my Accentra (older model, bought used). Solution? Penetrating oil did not work, so I used a propane torch (all I have) to heat the set screw, used a looong Allen wrench, and "BANG" it broke free.

As others have said, I use anti-seize compound on just about everything on my stoves - a small amount is all that is needed.

I got the upgraded motor and fit was a bit of an issue - the wiring harness was a problem - but I sorted it out.
 
I ordered the aftermarket part - it claims to be appropriate part for the P38+

PP7613-2T.jpg

Hopefully its a good fit, from the image it seems like it should
 

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Don,
Will the aftermarket fit and work efficiently?
 
Don - I watched a youtube video of yours concerning dry moly lube and some other lube that you sprayed on a couple fan blades. Do you actually spray either of those onto the fan blades before reinstalling them in the stove or was that just for show?
 
Don - I watched a youtube video of yours concerning dry moly lube and some other lube that you sprayed on a couple fan blades. Do you actually spray either of those onto the fan blades before reinstalling them in the stove or was that just for show?

Yes, I spray them and then install them into the stove. It protects them against rusting and ash buildup. I also spray the augers and auger chutes too!

See
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...er-service-auger-jam-fix.126216/#post-1694828
Also See
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...-burs-pimp-my-auger-pics.102423/#post-1320543
 
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