quadrafire 1100 pellet stove does nothing after blowing fuse n replacing it

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Another thought.
Many of these Vac switches have two ports. If the hose is connected to the wrong port he will never find it inspecting the wires.
The thing that makes this significant is that the vac switch would be closed when the stove is off. I am not sure how the op checked the switch, but it was probably with power off. He did report zero ohms for one of the switches, I can't recall which. As soon as the combustion blower is running the vac switch would open inhibiting the auger motor.
 
Not sure if this is the same stove, but based on what has been said here in this thread, maybe this will help some of us.

castile-wiring-jpg.32099
 
The thing that makes this significant is that the vac switch would be closed when the stove is off. I am not sure how the op checked the switch, but it was probably with power off. He did report zero ohms for one of the switches, I can't recall which. As soon as the combustion blower is running the vac switch would open inhibiting the auger motor.
He checked a snap disc that had 0. The vac switch is suppose to be open with stove off, and closed when vacuum sucks switch closed. Reason to bypass switch is to try and get electricity all the way thru path to auger.
 
Ok men, got exhaust fan back but no call light. Think bulb blew, don't ask.lol.. anyway have power to red wire at vac switch, no auger.. jumped vac switch, no auger.... Will pick up new bulb in a.m... Will pick then for next step. None of the pics.of replacement augers are wired the same and have seen one picture of mine anywhere. Sure power is getting to auger with vac jumped so it should run correct?
 
Got exhaust back, and blew a bulb? You're going the wrong direction 93. We've been there, done that. Don't want to go back there. lol
 
Yes, I know, this junction box is a lil smaller than a receptacle, as I'm sure you know. But till you've been inside one can can't hate it enough. If you have you know. They stuffed so much in there and the wires for the reset and light are all yellow and side by side. I the connectors won't snap on tight so one of the call lights fell of while switching around the reset wires with long meddle nose pliers. I think.I hooked the reset wire to the light, this wire has full line voltage and bulb runs on 28 volts. Anyway even with bulb out stove should operate, I do have power to vac switch. Or will the light itself stop a process? I know I asked you this before and I think it just helps in diagnostics??
So if I'm.following right, #2 snap disc should have power flowing thru it? If it doesn't it's blown? If so couldn't I unhook it to bypass it?

Also Am I following you guys right that the auger is bad since I bypassed vac switch and it still doesn't run?
 
Light won't stop. It just helps to see if things are working. Power to vac switch is only part of it. Does it come out the other wire is the key? Yes, you can bypass #2 by jumping wires together. Not necessarily on auger bad. Only if there is power to it, and it isn't running. Control board can be bad and not supplying power to auger. tj is going to download a service manual you can follow. I'm heading to work, so will be no help. Sorry. But lots of other guys here to help you. Everyone play nice. And everything is small on these stoves to work on. I know. kap

And remember that testing only works when stove is calling for heat, and is in the initial feed mode. Othewise no power to auger.
 
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This is the service manual for YOUR stove. With it, an ELECTRICIAN should be able to put things back the way they should be before you started moving wires around. Sadly, I STRONGLY SUGGEST that you put the pliers down and get an electrician to fix your stove.
 

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Having same issue on my 1100i , regular solder doesn't work what was your final fix? Or is it still working? $112.00 is what they want for mine around here. Also I'm curious how your stove acted with it broken just to compare my issues, some say that fixing the thermocouple wire won't fix my stove that I need a control box.

Thanks,bought new one, started stove manually and after it got warm enough the green light came on then red. So that issue us resolved. Thanks again.

I came across this on another thread. Care to explain this?
 
I came across this on another thread. Care to explain this?
I asked this guy how his broken thermocouple effected his pellet stove. Mine was broken but has been for 3 years but it still ran fine. If I could twist wires together or solder it then I wanted to rather than pay ,,$112.00 for one. I went ahead and invested in a new one to be certain. Saw your name so I gave short explanation on that post so as not to confuse someone who's has Been trying to help me. Also when I checked ohms I set it on the 200 setting, is that where u want it?
 
Light won't stop. It just helps to see if things are working. Power to vac switch is only part of it. Does it come out the other wire is the key? Yes, you can bypass #2 by jumping wires together. Not necessarily on auger bad. Only if there is power to it, and it isn't running. Control board can be bad and not supplying power to auger. tj is going to download a service manual you can follow. I'm heading to work, so will be no help. Sorry. But lots of other guys here to help you. Everyone play nice. And everything is small on these stoves to work on. I know. kap

And remember that testing only works when stove is calling for heat, and is in the initial feed mode. Othewise no power to auger.
Ok thanks, will check it on start up a few times to be sure.then post results.
 
I asked this guy how his broken thermocouple effected his pellet stove. Mine was broken but has been for 3 years but it still ran fine. If I could twist wires together or solder it then I wanted to rather than pay ,,$112.00 for one. I went ahead and invested in a new one to be certain. Saw your name so I gave short explanation on that post so as not to confuse someone who's has Been trying to help me. Also when I checked ohms I set it on the 200 setting, is that where u want it?
You said that you were able to manually start the stove. Does that mean that your stove is working? If not, exactly what problem are you still experiencing?
 
Every
This is the service manual for YOUR stove. With it, an ELECTRICIAN should be able to put things back the way they should be before you started moving wires around. Sadly, I STRONGLY SUGGEST that you put the pliers down and get an electrician to fix your stove.
Hong is wired properly, only question about wiring is the reset button has 3 prongs on it but only 2 wires, so up questioned if I had the proper 2 or if it mattered as it's just a switch but it doesn't matter. I've wired entire homes from start to finish so electric work isn't the problem, it's understanding the circuit path for me, most is clear but if I knew what the board does exactly and doesn't do I wouldn't be hunting so much. Been repairing PlayStation consoles for 15 years as well as old vcr's washers dryers, so I'm capable but this is my 1st attempt at a pellet stove and have been jumping all over it due to all the advice. Its all good advice I just need to stay on one path till it's done and Move to next step. My electrical friend stopped by last night and didn't know how to check ohms so he's no help said he doesn't understand any of this. Just because a wire fell off or I swapped 1 wire doesn't mean I'm not capable, who hasn't made mistakes? Thanks for advice and Manuals. Again what I'm trying to do here is make sure I have fixed all issues before buying a control box ( if I need one ) so that I don't plug it in and fry it as well. At this point I have everything working but the igniter and auger. I'm working on auger now once it's deemed good or bad and Ill replace it if so at some point, I'll move to igniter, then, if nothing and all is checked out to be good, a control box. Dealer has pressed me to buy a control box from get go. But if installed without repairing the cause of failure I would be out $360.00 no other service men in area, only ones that are here ant get here till beginning of 3rd week of January, this is wherever I'm at. I'm disabled, blind in left eye and poor vision in right with very limited money and didn't want to spend my kids Christmas money on parts carelessly. Thanks again.
 
You said that you were able to manually start the stove. Does that mean that your stove is working? If not, exactly what problem are you still experiencing?
I started it with some of that gel, it only ran for the ten minutes it usually does or is supposed to without it feeding I guess. While little the green led came on then the red led after it went out the red went out and eventually the green did. Convection fans didn't come on because it only ran 10 minutes and needs to run like 15 minutes I think is what Kappel 15 said. I have exhaust fan, but not feeding pellets and no igniter. Thanks
 
Harvey, I asked him to answer some questions .... see below.

From the manual ....

Now, lets see ....

1. Does the stove do what is described in a ? Combustion motor run for 10 mins and then turn off ?

2. Do you get a red light when you follow the instructions in b ?

3. Do pellets get fed into burn pot if you follow instructions in d ?

OK, now the next part below .......

It takes 15 minutes for the convection blowers to turn on, that is why they did not turn on when you did a manual start, unless there is something else wrong with the stove, but the only way to find that out is to see if the auger is feeding fuel for 20 minutes or more to make these come on.

He came back with ....

Yes to a, b and no to d.

He started the fire manually with some fuel in the burn pot.

The stove would not feed fuel, auger is not turning on.

Stove did not run hot enough to turn on the room blowers either due to the lack of fuel and heat.

At this point we was close to getting the stove to work, but it all went sideways, why I have no idea.
 
also how could your stove work for 3 years without a thermocouple when it is an integral part of the running logic? You said that the stove 'ran fine' for three years....
 
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OK, now that I have read that crude service manual a few times, there are only 4 possible problems for the auger motor not to work.

1/ Faulty Vac switch
2/ Bad neutral connection
3/ Auger motor is shot
4/ Control board is shot
 
OK, now that I have read that crude service manual a few times, there are only 4 possible problems for the auger motor not to work.

1/ Faulty Vac switch
2/ Bad neutral connection
3/ Auger motor is shot
4/ Control board is shot
You forgot bad/improperly wired reset button and bad snap disk #2. These are in the circuit as well but not directly. They input into the control board and tell the auger motor drive circuit to start over. If not properly wired or if faulty, the auger will never be told to start.
 
You forgot bad/improperly wired reset button and bad snap disk #2. These are in the circuit as well but not directly. They input into the control board and tell the auger motor drive circuit to start over. If not properly wired or if faulty, the auger will never be told to start.

OK, I see that now.

I see that there could be another possible problem too, the thermostat and it's wiring if I am reading it right.
But if there is a call for heat via the red light on the stove, this would point to the thermostat being OK, or am I missing something else ?
 
OK, I see that now.

I see that there could be another possible problem too, the thermostat and it's wiring if I am reading it right.
But if there is a call for heat via the red light on the stove, this would point to the thermostat being OK, or am I missing something else ?
A bad run cap on the auger motor would keep it from feeding pellets even if he measures Voltage there.
 
A bad run cap on the auger motor would keep it from feeding pellets even if he measures Voltage there.
Except the manual does not mention a cap on the auger motor in the explanation for removal. It only mentions/shows a cap for the combustion motor and ONE for BOTH convection blowers (curious). I figured there would be another one on the other side for the second blower but one cap must start them both.
 
Except the manual does not mention a cap on the auger motor in the explanation for removal. It only mentions/shows a cap for the combustion motor and ONE for BOTH convection blowers (curious). I figured there would be another one on the other side for the second blower but one cap must start them both.
Those are run capacitors not start capacitors. They shift the ac phase to the second winding and are continuously connected. That creates a rotating magnetic field.
 
Those are run capacitors not start capacitors. They shift the ac phase to the second winding and are continuously connected. That creates a rotating magnetic field.
Yea, you're right, of course. Start caps would need a set of contacts to open up after it started - right?