Rear vent wood stove through masonry fireplace

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dmack

Member
Jun 17, 2013
4
West Chester PA
Thanks for all the great information on wood stoves! I'm posting some pictures of my install to return the favor. My application is a masonry fireplace with full clay liner. Had it cleaned and inspected before the install. Stove is a Quadrafire Cumberland Gap. I decided to use the rear vent feature so I could exhaust through the existing fireplace.


I extended the existing hearth by 24" to get the required clearances. My hearth extension is two pieces of flagstone floating on 1/2" Micore 300 mineral fiberboard. BTW I have a couple pieces of the Micore left if anyone near West Chester PA needs any.

I got a stainless steel flexible chimney liner, insulation kit, and stove pipe from Chimney Liner Depot. I removed my fireplace damper plate and cut out a small section of the damper plate frame to let the liner pass through.



Connected the tee and the tee cap to the flexible liner.
I used some of the leftover Micore 300 to block off the damper opening around the liner.

Then I added the snout and moved the stove into place.



Moved the stove into its final position and made the connection to the stove pipe. Hope this helps someone!





 

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Very nice job! Thanks for the pictures. This is a great example of how it should be done.
See! extending the hearth isn't a big deal and it looks nice. I hope a lot of people that are scared of extending their hearth see this.
 
Beautiful job. I've always liked this stove. Thanks for the visual documentation. You should have a great stove warming the house next winter.
 
I love the stove and love the instal.
 
Nice job.
I have the same setup but you just reminded me that I need to install my block off plate.
 
  • Like
Reactions: stoveguy2esw
I'm happy with it so far. It drafts well even with the rear vent and 15 Ft chimney. Not sure how it would perform with 2 45's. After the cleanout tee, my liner pretty much goes straight up. Burn times are not as long as I had hoped for but probably due to my wood. I get about 4 to 6 hours from a full load. I'm still playing with it and trying to figure it out. Good luck!
 
I'm happy with it so far. It drafts well even with the rear vent and 15 Ft chimney. Not sure how it would perform with 2 45's. After the cleanout tee, my liner pretty much goes straight up. Burn times are not as long as I had hoped for but probably due to my wood. I get about 4 to 6 hours from a full load. I'm still playing with it and trying to figure it out. Good luck!

Nice job. I hope you enjoy it.
 
I'm happy with it so far. It drafts well even with the rear vent and 15 Ft chimney. Not sure how it would perform with 2 45's. After the cleanout tee, my liner pretty much goes straight up. Burn times are not as long as I had hoped for but probably due to my wood. I get about 4 to 6 hours from a full load. I'm still playing with it and trying to figure it out. Good luck!

I recently bought the exact same stove. Very disappointed in burn times. I've tried every setting and have experimented with various species of wood and all I can get is roughly 3 to 5 hours of burn-time on a full load (hot). I suspect my 25 foot liner (direct) is causing an unusually strong draw which is causing the very active fire even at low burn settings. I was wondering if putting a damper in the pipe would help? I added a damper in the pipe to an old magnolia stove I bought at Tractor Supply in my barn and it really has helped control the fire and extend burn times. However, I have noticed a white powdery substance on the surface of the box ever since I did this. Perhaps the steel is overheating and leaching out something?
 
thats awesome. ill have to show this to the wife. been trying to convince her our next one should be a freestanding stove
 
im liking every bit of that action!

great stove , nice looking well thought out installation. somebody did his homework on this one.

all around great job my friend, that stove's gonna rule in that hookup!
 
Lot smarter install than this one.

scary install.JPG
 
Hope this helps someone!

Helps me - that's the exact same install I'll be looking at, including the hearth extension, hopefully this spring...just have to get rid of that dang propane insert first.
 
Thanks for all the great information on wood stoves! I'm posting some pictures of my install to return the favor. My application is a masonry fireplace with full clay liner. Had it cleaned and inspected before the install. Stove is a Quadrafire Cumberland Gap. I decided to use the rear vent feature so I could exhaust through the existing fireplace.


I extended the existing hearth by 24" to get the required clearances. My hearth extension is two pieces of flagstone floating on 1/2" Micore 300 mineral fiberboard. BTW I have a couple pieces of the Micore left if anyone near West Chester PA needs any.

I got a stainless steel flexible chimney liner, insulation kit, and stove pipe from Chimney Liner Depot. I removed my fireplace damper plate and cut out a small section of the damper plate frame to let the liner pass through.



Connected the tee and the tee cap to the flexible liner.
I used some of the leftover Micore 300 to block off the damper opening around the liner.

Then I added the snout and moved the stove into place.



Moved the stove into its final position and made the connection to the stove pipe. Hope this helps someone!




Great set up, how is the quadrafire wood stove performing?
 
That is nice work. How did you attach the block off plate though. I just did one out of sheet metal and it was a bit of work. Need to do a second one and not sure i want to take the same path.
 
It's performing well. With the blower, it really heats my family room, dining room, and kitchen! I'm happy with it.

DMack -- Your original post was very helpful. Great description and pictures. We also live in DubC (WC, PA) and we're looking to cut our Damper Frame a bit like you did in order to fit the 6" pipe down to our Vermont Castings Intrepid II woodstove. How did you cut your Damper frame? Did you use a reciprocating saw or a Hand held angle grinder?
 
A reciprocating saw will work on something that is solidly fastened down like the damper frame, but with chatter your teeth out if the metal is loose like a damper plate. For that an angle grinder or hacksaw is better. Wear good eye and ear protection.