2015-2016 Blaze King Performance thread (Everything BK)

[RustyShackleford]

Once you burn a multitude of wood species you will find some cook down to ash quicker than others. It is possible, in very cold weather to load a stove, burn off most of the solid fuel and have very large and plentiful coal left that you cannot get more wood in to the firebox.

Yes, indeed. I have found this to be very much the case with hickory. So much so that even though hickory is generally considered among the very best firewood species, I'd rather make the slight sacrifice in energy density and burn oak instead.

 

[Ashful]

It is very simple. Once the plug chute is full and won't allow any more ashes to fall, shake the Ashpan back and forth using the ashlip. Repeat until the ash pan is full but not overflowing. I'm certain that the issues mentioned above about the Ashpan are because of not shaking down the ashes before pulling the pan forward while overflowing.

Not in this case. BK made an error in the 30.0 to 30.1 upgrade, and a few of us got pan drawers that do not match the stove to which they're installed. Result is the pan is not entirely under the plug. BK is trying to make good on the oversight with a fix, right now.

 

[webby3650]

Not in this case. BK made an error in the 30.0 to 30.1 upgrade, and a few of us got pan drawers that do not match the stove to which they're installed. Result is the pan is not entirely under the plug. BK is trying to make good on the oversight with a fix, right now.

I'm pretty sure that some of the stoves in question do in fact have the correct pan.

 

[Ashful]

Been emailing with BKVP this AM, and it does appear some of the original assessments were not correct. Here's what we know to be correct:

1. You had stated that the 30.0 ash plug is centered over pan.
2. I and one other had shown that our 30.1 plugs are right on rear edge of pan.
3. BKVP stated that a few of the early 30.1's may have gone out with the wrong/old pan drawer. This has been confirmed.

However, the new pan drawer does not move the pan back to where it is centered under the plug again, as moving the pan back within the drawer would make it difficult to withdraw it from the drawer, given the current slide design. So, what they have done is modify the rear edge of the drawer, to try to minimize spilling. A pair of these new drawers are en route to me now.

 

[ohiojoe13]

Been emailing with BKVP this AM, and it does appear some of the original assessments were not correct. Here's what we know to be correct:

1. You had stated that the 30.0 ash plug is centered over pan.
2. I and one other had shown that our 30.1 plugs are right on rear edge of pan.
3. BKVP stated that a few of the early 30.1's may have gone out with the wrong/old pan drawer. This has been confirmed.

However, the new pan drawer does not move the pan back to where it is centered under the plug again, as moving the pan back within the drawer would make it difficult to withdraw it from the drawer, given the current slide design. So, what they have done is modify the rear edge of the drawer, to try to minimize spilling. A pair of these new drawers are en route to me now.

How do you check to see if you have the correct ash pan? This is my first year with a 30.1. The one time I did empty the ashes I just shoveled them out.

 

[Ashful]

I think pan has always been the same. Only change was the bend of the lip on rear of drawer. Perhaps someone who has the right one can post a photo.

 

[Highbeam]

Weird, the Princess ultra ash pan IS the drawer.

If nothing else @Ashful , please post the two side by side so we can compare. Pictures are so helpful.

 

[drz1050]

It is very simple. Once the plug chute is full and won't allow any more ashes to fall, shake the Ashpan back and forth using the ashlip. Repeat until the ash pan is full but not overflowing. I'm certain that the issues mentioned above about the Ashpan are because of not shaking down the ashes before pulling the pan forward while overflowing. It really works very well.

This is how it works on your stove, because the plug is center mounted in the pan. Not the case on the 30.1 stoves. Any amount of shaking the pan will send ashes over the lip, because it's already lined up with the back edge.

 

[drz1050]

Been emailing with BKVP this AM, and it does appear some of the original assessments were not correct. Here's what we know to be correct:

1. You had stated that the 30.0 ash plug is centered over pan.
2. I and one other had shown that our 30.1 plugs are right on rear edge of pan.
3. BKVP stated that a few of the early 30.1's may have gone out with the wrong/old pan drawer. This has been confirmed.

However, the new pan drawer does not move the pan back to where it is centered under the plug again, as moving the pan back within the drawer would make it difficult to withdraw it from the drawer, given the current slide design. So, what they have done is modify the rear edge of the drawer, to try to minimize spilling. A pair of these new drawers are en route to me now.

Talked to BKVP about this the other day. The only thing that would need to be changed is to make the slides longer/ mount them farther to the back of the stove. He said he'll look into it.

 

[drz1050]

pictures:

Ash pan clearance to front of stove in current slides:


Amount of ashes before dumping, not very much... about 1" lower than the front firebrick:


pulling the plug:


Scooping in, already at the top lip:


Amount of ashes in the pan after shaking (note spillage off the back side):


Trying to get some more into the pan:


Ash pan is full now for all intensive purposes after shaking:


Floor underneath stove:

 

[webby3650]

This is how it works on your stove, because the plug is center mounted in the pan. Not the case on the 30.1 stoves. Any amount of shaking the pan will send ashes over the lip, because it's already lined up with the back edge.

And how do you know I don't have a 30.1?

 

[drz1050]

And how do you know I don't have a 30.1?

lol, I lurked on this forum for a while before creating an account. I remember you were one of the first people to get an Ashford at all.

 

[Highbeam]

lol, I lurked on this forum for a while before creating an account. I remember you were one of the first people to get an Ashford at all.

Webby does have access to lots of new stoves so he probably spends more time inside other peoples' new 30.1 stoves then he does inside his own stove.

Just can't get over how tiny these ash pans are. Why on earth don't they make them large enough for a full stove load of ash? Also, did they take away the ash pan lids on the ashford series? I use those lids to contain the ash as I walk the pan out of the house.

 

[drz1050]

There's no lid on my pan. I bet Webby has looked at a few 30.1's, but doubt he's shoveled the ash out of many.

 

[Ashful]

Drz1050 nailed it. Thanks for the photos. Same problem I have, with hot coals landing on the floor behind the pan, and stinking up the house as they smolder away on the floor.

Longer slides would allow them to mount the pan farther aft in the drawer, while still being able to withdraw it. Let's give BK a few weeks, and see what they come up with. He says they're working on it.

 

[dh1989]

About 2 weeks back I scratched my telescoping pipe while sliding it up and back down to inspect the chimney (I now use a mirror/flashlight through the bypass). Anyhow, I decided to fix the scratch on the pipe with Stove Bright flat black paint which is what Duravent says to use. I waited until the stove was cool and masked off the flue collar area and the stove surface so I didn't get the paint on the stovetop. I used 3M blue painters tape and covered the rest with newspapers.

Well, the pipe looks perfect now. However, now my stovetop is messed up from the painters tape. This is not residue from the tape - it does not wipe off. The tape actually pulled some paint off and it adhered to the back of the tape. Stove paint was cured per the directions it came with and I've been running it daily for a few weeks now.


image url upload

This adds to the marks I got on the surface when the paint peeled away and onto a steel tea kettle I tried using on the stove. I'm not sure how the durability of the BK paint (Crossroads) compares to other stove paints but so far I'm not impressed.

Just a word of caution to anyone else who needs to mask their stove off to paint the pipe.

 

[webby3650]

About 2 weeks back I scratched my telescoping pipe while sliding it up and back down to inspect the chimney (I now use a mirror/flashlight through the bypass). Anyhow, I decided to fix the scratch on the pipe with Stove Bright flat black paint which is what Duravent says to use. I waited until the stove was cool and masked off the flue collar area and the stove surface so I didn't get the paint on the stovetop. I used 3M blue painters tape and covered the rest with newspapers.

Well, the pipe looks perfect now. However, now my stovetop is messed up from the painters tape. This is not residue from the tape - it does not wipe off. The tape actually pulled some paint off and it adhered to the back of the tape. Stove paint was cured per the directions it came with and I've been running it daily for a few weeks now.

View attachment 166787
image url upload

This adds to the marks I got on the surface when the paint peeled away and onto a steel tea kettle I tried using on the stove. I'm not sure how the durability of the BK paint (Crossroads) compares to other stove paints but so far I'm not impressed.

Just a word of caution to anyone else who needs to mask their stove off to paint the pipe.

The paint is plenty durable. That particular spot is extremely hot! Just buy some metallic stove bright and repaint the top. If you want your stove to look new all the time, either buy an enameled stove or touch up the paint annually. It's just part of having a painted steel stove..

 

[webby3650]

Webby does have access to lots of new stoves so he probably spends more time inside other peoples' new 30.1 stoves then he does inside his own stove.

Just can't get over how tiny these ash pans are. Why on earth don't they make them large enough for a full stove load of ash? Also, did they take away the ash pan lids on the ashford series? I use those lids to contain the ash as I walk the pan out of the house.

I guess the Ashpan doesn't seam small to me, maybe because I see so many other ashpans all the time? There are some truly useless ashpans out there! Jotul and Hearthstone come to mind first. Especially Hearthstone! The Ashpan on the Ashford is leaps and bounds above their competitors, assuming they get this placement of the plug figured out. Like I said before, they should have left the plug alone. It was plenty big enough, it kept the big coals from falling into the pan. The bigger plug is simply different, not better in my opinion.

 

[drz1050]

The small plug also has a loop welded on at 90 deg, correct? The larger one's loop is at 45 deg, so makes catching it with the poker a bit of a PITA.

That's hardly an issue, and a new poker would fix it quick.. I just don't know why they did it.

I think the size of the pan is ok. It can't handle a stove full of ashes, but two trips don't bother me TOO much. The other pans had lids though? I didn't know that; one of those would be nice.

 

[dh1989]

The paint is plenty durable. That particular spot is extremely hot! Just buy some metallic stove bright and repaint the top. If you want your stove to look new all the time, either buy an enameled stove or touch up the paint annually. It's just part of having a painted steel stove..

Thanks, not sure what to expect as this is my first stove. I'm used to automotive repainting and finishing and never had paint slough off like that. I will probably repaint in the spring, I can live with it for now. I spent enough time airing out the upstairs from Stove Bright fumes today...

 

[webby3650]

The small plug also has a loop welded on at 90 deg, correct? The larger one's loop is at 45 deg, so makes catching it with the poker a bit of a PITA.

That's hardly an issue, and a new poker would fix it quick.. I just don't know why they did it.

I think the size of the pan is ok. It can't handle a stove full of ashes, but two trips don't bother me TOO much. The other pans had lids though? I didn't know that; one of those would be nice.

The lids are on the princess and king models.

 

[blueguy]

The lids are on the princess and king models.

And Siroccos [emoji846]

 

[Ashful]

Ashford pans have lids, too. It's in the bottom of the drawer, under the pan, drz.

Not sure what you're talking about on Jotul pan size, we by. My Jotul Firelight pans are at least 2x larger than the Ashford pan, if that even matters.

In the end, I care infinitely more about pan location (must be centered under ash plug), than size or lids. Hoping BK finds a way to improve this.

 

[webby3650]

Ashford pans have lids, too. It's in the bottom of the drawer, under the pan, drz.

Not sure what you're talking about on Jotul pan size, we by. My Jotul Firelight pans are at least 2x larger than the Ashford pan, if that even matters.

In the end, I care infinitely more about pan location (must be centered under ash plug), than size or lids. Hoping BK finds a way to improve this.

Your Jotul pan might have been bigger in size, but didn't hold more volume. What lid are you referring to? I've never had a Firelight, but the Oslo Ashpan system is by far the messiest I've ever used!

 

[Usernamemustbeunique]

Okay....I might have screwed up. I did a hot reload and forgot to close my bypass....watched some t.v. might have been over an hour.....load door was latched and fresh air was turned down. Anticipated issues? Flue temp didn't get over 350....cat didn't stall and wood is 12%