New Chimney Melting My Vinyl Siding

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I am looking into making a heat shield up. It's amazing with so many houses having vinyl siding and no one is selling anything for this. Also all the mounting kits and brackets sold by chimney companies seem to have the same 2" to 2.5" clearances.

If you want easy, you could put a 4 large siding blocks behind the pipe, screw a couple strips of 1/4" Hardiebacker to the blocks, paint it all the siding color and call it a day. This would mostly hide the damaged siding without replacing it, too.
 
The possibility of having a runaway fire is pretty remote but probably not impossible. I have checked the stove for any air leaks and it is sealed up tight. The air intake is never left open more than 1/4 to 1/2 turn. The chimney itself has no creosote buildup. The only place that may get going and I can't see is the black stove pipe inside the house. It was new in November and all the connections are tight and supplemented with stove gasket cement. The only change I made from the old set up is the insulated pipe that goes through the wall was changed from 12" to 18". I am crazy about safety and always try to do everything in my power to make sure things are set up correctly. This stove will not be started up again until all the issues are resolved and I can trust all the equipment.
 
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I have almost the exact same setup - vinyl siding and through the wall exposed double wall 18'. When my flue gas is running 600-650 on a probe I can touch my exterior T and it's almost not even warm to the touch.
 
That is pretty typical for exterior chimney. The pipe got very hot. The question is why?
 
I have almost the exact same setup - vinyl siding and through the wall exposed double wall 18'. When my flue gas is running 600-650 on a probe I can touch my exterior T and it's almost not even warm to the touch.
That is how mine always was. When I saw the problem my stove was running and it was cool to the touch. It will probably be awhile before I get a chance to dismantle the chimney. Selkirk has the photos and wants that part back. So far they have said they will replace the piece for free but the cost to get to it and the cost to replace the siding are on me. I'm thinking that if it turns out to be a defective section they should cover everything it costs to replace it and the siding.
 
That is pretty typical for exterior chimney. The pipe got very hot. The question is why?
I wish I could post the video of me tapping the different sections but the file is too large. The tee and the section above it have a thud sound. The discolored section has a ring like your hitting an empty oil can no matter where you tap it.
 
Thud is good. Hollow ring, not good.
 
I wish I could post the video of me tapping the different sections but the file is too large. The tee and the section above it have a thud sound. The discolored section has a ring like your hitting an empty oil can no matter where you tap it.
Could you upload the vid to youtube and post the link? That's what I've done in the past.
 
It's hard for me to tell from the pics, but is that lower section the only one that's discolored? And is the vinyl directly adjacent to it the only vinyl that is warped?

If that's the case, then maybe the whole thing could be explained by a defective section? That is, maybe even a normally hot fire could have overheated a defective section?

If that turns out to be the case, I'd agree that they should fix the siding damage as well.
 
The chimney itself has no creosote buildup.
There is absolutly some creosote buildup in there. Not allot but surly enough to burn. Honestly i think you have a defective pipe section. But by the look of your chimney your stove is not burning like it should especially with compressed blocks.
 
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Trade out the lower "hollow" sounding section(s), for a good top section(s), see if any further melting stops.
Most stove manufacturers would recommend against burning the bricks, let alone constant loads of bricks only for any extended period of time.
I have no experience with the bricks, but have read enough times, where they had to be mixed with wood splits, due to some issues with them burning super hot. Unless you are monitoring the stove 24/7, you really have no clue how hot it is burning while your away from it.
I can shut the insert here down at 250, 300, 400, and in time, it will always run up to 700+ on its own with air all the way to low.
Does pipe manufacturer know your running the bricks in that thing? Not sure if that would affect warranty or not?
There are only a couple few of why that is happening.
The stove is burning run too hot for whatever reason, or the pipe is no good or failing, or a combo of both.
 
Hey Hog haven't heard from you in a while, how's the back doing?
 
Hey Hog haven't heard from you in a while, how's the back doing?
The back ain't too bad, until I work on the house or something. I just get used to getting old, the aches that grow with age, and keep chugging along.
 
Well it took me awhile but I finally got around to replacing the bottom section of chimney pipe. The inside of the pipe is intact and not warped but the insulation inside seems to be gone . Seems like it is burnt up. I would think that whatever they use for insulation would be able to stand up to any heat without disintegrating even with a chimney fire. I made a heat shield out of aluminum soffit sections and spaced it between the chimney and siding. In the picture it looks like the heat shield is touching the siding but it is actually halfway between the chimney and siding all the way up. 14702499_10210886878745820_4701047315453093829_n.jpg 14721522_10210886871785646_659762818400796871_n.jpg
 
The old SuperVent chimney that I replaced had been up for nearly 30 years. In that time I had a few chimney fires that burned all they way up the chimney. That was before the new siding. Even after all that time the insulation of the old piped was still intact when I took it down.
 
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