New to stoves, please help me

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Doylee4693

Member
Nov 16, 2017
84
Buffalo
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so my question is ive fitted my wall thimble on the inside, however the outside of my house is brick, so can I just cut a 3” hole in the brick and run it thru without having to cut a 7 or 8” hole for the exterior thimble?
 
Yes, a smaller hole is adequate, as long as the PV will pass thru it and align with the inner PV.
You may have modify the outside 1/2 of the thimble to make it sit flush against the outer bricks..
Just make sure the inside 1/2 also is flush against the inner bricks...
 
I did the same with my install. I cut the thimble so it sits flush against the bricks. Then a hole just large enough for the pipe to go through the brick snug. I did not use the thimble on the outside of the brick. Just the pipe coming out of the brick and hooked up to the clean out T.

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I was thinkingabout just getting a collar for the outside of the house to make it look flush, however i could save the few dollars and just modify the extrior portion of the thimble. Now im thinking of how to get the hole in the brick in the first place...i tried using an angle grinder but it seems tedious. I may spring for a 3” core masonry drill bit but there not cheap.
 
Visit a tool rental place near you and rent the masonry bit and or hammer drill. You could also mark the 3 inch hole and use a series of small drill holes all the way around the 3 inch circle. then use a hammer and chisel. If you are installing some sort of collar, you won't see the rough edges.
 
If you have to rent a hammer drill anyway, might as well get the core bit as well in that case... Probably pretty cheap to rent too, you won't need it but for a minimum time period. It's kinda crazy to buy a core bit, especially if you don't own a hammer drill and to do that for just the one hole.
 
Brick should be some what soft. I did this same thing when I installed my son's stove. I just went to Lowe's and bought a 1/2" masonry bit and used my regular corded drill.
 
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Well this brick is very tough to drill thru, ive had to buy a rotary hammer to get anything done... i cant imagine trying to drill enough holes to make a 3” circle with a hammer drill. My brand new hammer drill was taking along time to get thru and alot of muscle. Cant wait to try the new rotary hammer I just bought. Thanks for the ideas. Also a trip into town revealed no collars, im gonna take some tin snips to the exterior part of the wall thimble so I can make it sit flush as you guys mentioned.
 
Yes, a smaller hole is adequate, as long as the PV will pass thru it and align with the inner PV.
You may have modify the outside 1/2 of the thimble to make it sit flush against the outer bricks..
Just make sure the inside 1/2 also is flush against the inner bricks...
I dont think I can do that, the thimble doesnt reach the inner brick, it doesnt reach the backer board even thats in the pic. Theres a 3” difference. I was thinking about just cutting the backer board so its wider then the inner thimble and then running the pipe thru, will this work?
 
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So my question is do I need to apply caulk at the joints of the vent?also I put some stove cement around the exhaust port before applying my adapter, will it be good and sealed? Also im doing my first startup, any advice?
 
So my question is do I need to apply caulk at the joints of the vent?also I put some stove cement around the exhaust port before applying my adapter, will it be good and sealed? Also im doing my first startup, any advice?

Sealing joints is dependent on what brand PV you are using. Excel has RTV silicone gaskets. Duravent needs to be aluminum taped...
Most adapters DO require RTV silicone as a sealer...As for start up, what stove do you have?
 
JUSt picked up an englander, heats 1500 square foot. Also my exhaust tip ends about 1 1/2 foot away from my outside brickwall, should I add a 12” vent or keep as is? Thanks
 
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From your manual. you may have to render your window inoperable to meet code. That pipe is real close

VENT TERMINATION CLEARANCES
A) MIN. 4-FT CLEARANCE BELOW OR BESIDE ANY DOOR OR WINDOW THAT OPENS. B) MIN. 1-FT CLEARANCE ABOVE ANY DOOR OR WINDOW THAT OPENS.
C) MIN. 2-FT CLEARANCE FROM ANY ADJACENT BUILDING.
D) MIN. 7-FT CLEARANCE FROM ANY GRADE WHEN ADJACENT TO PUBLIC WALKWAYS.
E) MIN. 2-FT CLEARANCE ABOVE ANY GRASS, PLANTS, OR OTHER COMBUSTIBLE MATERIALS.
F) MIN. 3-FT CLEARANCE FROM A FORCED AIR INTAKE OF ANY APPLIANCE.
G) MIN. 2-FT CLEARANCE BELOW EAVES OR OVERHANG.
H) MIN. 1-FT CLEARANCE HORIZONTALLY FROM COMBUSTIBLE WALL.
I) VENTS INSTALLED WITH MECHANICAL EXHAUSTERS SHALL TERMINATE NOT LESS THAN 12 IN. (305MM) ABOVE THE HIGHEST POINT WHERE THEY PASS THROUGH THE ROOF SURFACE.
 
As long as the window remains closed. Code guy in my area would make you put screws in the window to make sure it is not able to open
 
:) May the sparks be with you!
 
What a huge waste of time that was, the stove barely breaks the chill in my 1200 square foot home and it 50 out... this is a massive upset.on top of that i can see smoke in my house.. man this is eating away at my wallet big time.. i was thinking i was going to save money here.
 
what stove do you have, new, used, sure the stove is clean, what kind of pellets. is smoke coming back in from around the window
 
Its brand new. Heres a link to the one I bought https://www.homedepot.com/p/England...Merch_Ship_Conf_3078558-_-pip_url__W804916601
This is giving me massive anxiety. To top it off no one will even look at it unless i boight it from them. Been full crank for awhile now and its still not doing much. The only thing i can think of is theres a vent looking thing in the stove that look like its for the exhaust, should that be fully open?
 
What brand of vent piping did you install? You mentioned you used stove cement to connect the stove to the pipe, what is stove cement? I have installed 5 different stoves now and have always just used the Red or Black High Temp RTV silicone sealant. Did you use any foil tape on the pipe joints?