Help with new Enviro P3 stove

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I see nothing wrong with the instillation other than the vent design
could have been better for inside the building . If the pipe had been turned
gone through the wall then turned up and run to a termination point above roof line
every one would have said what a nice installation . If the 3 inch or 4 inch pipe is
installed to a class A insulated stove pipe then it meets Canadian code .
Envrio shows not max. for elevation only suggests 5 feet elevation on throw
the wall applications . I will not address the stoves operation other than to say
If burn pot is not locked into slots you get a very poor dirty fire that will overflow
the pot in just hours (combustion air not being sent into the pot ) Also this stove is in BC
what is the elevation of installation. The higher up the more air it needs so open the
slider a little more . Oak insulation is good as long as the crawl space is permanently
vented to outside air . You have a work horses of a stove that will give you more heat
than you will need just keep it clean
That is my 2 cents worth

Well if I can just get it working the way it should.

I put the auger trim to 2 and combustion trim to 4. Fired it up last night at 6 on level 2

Pot almost full now. 2pm next day


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They must not have looked at the manual because the Authority with Jurisdiction is the Manufacturer.

Careful with that advice. I don't know the Canadian equivalent but in the U.S. NFPA 211 covers all solid fuel appliances. All jurisdictions, manufacturers and installers MUST follow those codes.

A jurisdiction, such as a state may impose more restrictive rules in its codes but cannot relax the NFPA 211 without hearings before the NFPA to show cause for relaxing a certain requirement.

Counties, municipalities and your insurance company can impose even further restrictions than what the NFPA or the state imposes, but again cannot relax any regulation without a hearing to show cause.

Most manufacturers are well within the NFPA 211 regulations, but, again they can impose further restrictions for their own products, but cannot relax any regulation on their own. If a product has restrictions beyond the NFPA, state, county and municipality then and only then are they the authority on the installation of their product.

In other words if a person is just going by the manufacturers specs without checking the NFPA, state, county, local code and insurance company, they well may have a illegal install and if they burn their house down their insurance probably won't cover it.

I just don't want someone to read into what was posted as to just go by what the stove manual says, it may not cover what your local code says.
 
I see nothing wrong with the instillation other than the vent design
could have been better for inside the building . If the pipe had been turned
gone through the wall then turned up and run to a termination point above roof line
every one would have said what a nice installation . If the 3 inch or 4 inch pipe is
installed to a class A insulated stove pipe then it meets Canadian code .
Envrio shows not max. for elevation only suggests 5 feet elevation on throw
the wall applications . I will not address the stoves operation other than to say
If burn pot is not locked into slots you get a very poor dirty fire that will overflow
the pot in just hours (combustion air not being sent into the pot ) Also this stove is in BC
what is the elevation of installation. The higher up the more air it needs so open the
slider a little more . Oak insulation is good as long as the crawl space is permanently
vented to outside air . You have a work horses of a stove that will give you more heat
than you will need just keep it clean
That is my 2 cents worth
The three inch pipe is dumping directly into a 10 foot high section of 7 inch wood stove pipe pipe. There is no liner in the seven inch pipe.
 
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If a stove manufacturer weren't following NFPA 211 they wouldn't get a UL listing for their stove. I don't know if Canada has NFI certified installers but the NFI gives Jurisdiction to the manual in how the stove is to be installed in the United States. The testing laboratories also decide the clearance to combustibles and chimney installation requirements. I'll also add the NFI has a 60 percent failure rate on their exam.
 
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Yes, but it doesn't change the fact that after NFPA and UL or OTL, that states, counties and local jurisdictions can and do impose more restrictive codes. Here in Green Bay you CAN NOT have a solid fuel appliance in a garage by city code. The only way to have one to heat a garage is for it to be in a separate building with fire rated dry wall and a bunch of other restrictions if it is within 10' of the garage.

Also NFI is not a government agency. It is a conglomeration of private industry professionals. NFPA, state, county, local codes and insurance companies trump anything thing an advisory group has to say.
I'm not saying it's not a good organization, they just aren't the rule makers when it comes to codes.
 
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I see what you are saying. I don't think the manual states whether it can or can't be in a garage. But the NFI does forbid that installation. I think that's why almost all manufacturers suggest their units be installed and serviced by NFI certified techs.
 
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I see what you are saying. I don't think the manual states whether it can or can't be in a garage. But the NFI does forbid that installation. I think that's why almost all manufacturers suggest their units be installed and serviced by NFI certified techs.
The biggest issue is for everyone to know the local codes as they are usually the most restrictive. In electrical installations I always check local first as I know most of the NFPA. If I'm not sure I'll go back to NFPA then down the list. I just don't want anyone to lose out on insurance if a simple one or two inches would have gotten them the OK from an insurance company.
 
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The stove pipe should go all the way up,per the manual,especially on a stove design known to have a weak exhaust.That,and take out the 90's ,it would be great.Also,if those dollars are canadian,then price is not so horrible as I thought.
 
I'm going to be honest and say I would fail that installation for two reasons. First, the EVL is over 25 which can cause a combustion issue. Secondly, and worse is the the pellet vent is connected to another chimneywhich is not less than 50 percent larger than the pellet vent. In other words if they had run a 4 inch pellet vent into 6 inch chimney pipe and kept the EVL at 25 or under it would be ok. I'm also wondering if the installer used a high temperature silicone to connect the appliance adapter to the flue. If I were her I would open the draft all the way and run it on high for two hours. If there were no build up in the pot I'd fix the chimney. If there were I'd be looking at the control board.
 
I'm going to be honest and say I would fail that installation for two reasons. First, the EVL is over 25 which can cause a combustion issue. Secondly, and worse is the the pellet vent is connected to another chimneywhich is not less than 50 percent larger than the pellet vent. In other words if they had run a 4 inch pellet vent into 6 inch chimney pipe and kept the EVL at 25 or under it would be ok. I'm also wondering if the installer used a high temperature silicone to connect the appliance adapter to the flue. If I were her I would open the draft all the way and run it on high for two hours. If there were no build up in the pot I'd fix the chimney. If there were I'd be looking at the control board.

That is what the distributor said to do in order to set the air flow he agrees there is an airflow issue. He gave me instructions on how to set everything without using the special gauge so yes going to open the damper all The Way going to run it on high for about 35 to 40 minutes and then look for the colour on the top of the stove. Hey quick question for the forum when you look at the veryTop inside the stove should there be any type of cover that covers the heat exchanger tubes


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I'm going to be honest and say I would fail that installation for two reasons. First, the EVL is over 25 which can cause a combustion issue. Secondly, and worse is the the pellet vent is connected to another chimneywhich is not less than 50 percent larger than the pellet vent. In other words if they had run a 4 inch pellet vent into 6 inch chimney pipe and kept the EVL at 25 or under it would be ok. I'm also wondering if the installer used a high temperature silicone to connect the appliance adapter to the flue. If I were her I would open the draft all the way and run it on high for two hours. If there were no build up in the pot I'd fix the chimney. If there were I'd be looking at the control board.
Think of all the ash buildup on that shelf,from the difference of the pipe sizes,lol.
 
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Have we made any progress? This post has become my internet (educational) entertainment


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Not really

I have been in contact with the distributor. They have been very good at getting back to my emails. They sent me some instructions for manually setting the airflow or at least testing.
the instructions said to open the damper all the way and have the stove run on level five 30 to 45 minutes and then check to see what colour the deposits were

Tell my husband and clean the entire stove and we Ran it and we send pictures

That was late Friday night. I doubt the distributors are open on the weekend so I am waiting for Monday morning. I really just want the dealer that I bought it from and paid for installation to come work all this out here are the pic of before and after

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So we will wait for what the distributor says, it’s coming down to the point that as of Tuesday or Wednesday we’re just going to go into the store they take your stove back give me our money bac. we will run some electric heaters again throughout this winter and price out running a gas line next spring

It too bad. It’s a cute little stove but cute does not heat the cabin

We spent $13,000 this year fixing this cabin with new Windows new doors new flooring and this new stove. Not to mention the five years of our lives previous to that hand sanding the logs inside and out and re-staining them


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If that last pic is the issue you have it narrowed down too from what I can tell from the pic that looks like a typical clinker buid up from some brands of pellets.
 
If that last pic is the issue you have it narrowed down too from what I can tell from the pic that looks like a typical clinker buid up from some brands of pellets.

They were the most popular pellets at central home hardware. Friends have a pellet stove and have burned for years




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This may be a stupid question and I have not seen any one ask it
Was the 7 in original chimney cleaned before the stove was installed ?
Has one one checked to see if it is plugged ?
From what I have been reading your stove is in needing of more
combustion air . Some where there is a restriction of some sort !!
Is the flame bright yellow and dancing ?
Is it orange with black tips ?
When pellets drop into the burn pot is there an explosion of sparks or just a few ?
 
This may be a stupid question and I have not seen any one ask it
Was the 7 in original chimney cleaned before the stove was installed ?
Has one one checked to see if it is plugged ?
From what I have been reading your stove is in needing of more
combustion air . Some where there is a restriction of some sort !!
Is the flame bright yellow and dancing ?
Is it orange with black tips ?
When pellets drop into the burn pot is there an explosion of sparks or just a few ?


I do not know what the installer did I do not think the previous chimney was cleaned before but there they put up a smaller pipe in there. When the pellets drop there’s a few Sparks but not a ton the flame is bright yellow and dancing not orange with black tips hopefully the distributor can deal with the dealer and maybe they can come and take a look at it and get it working the way it should before Tuesday


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They were the most popular pellets at central home hardware. Friends have a pellet stove and have burned for years

Ok but that don't mean they will work great in your stove, If you have a bright dancing flame you have the proper burn now or at least very close, that deposit in the burn pot is very common especially with hardwood pellets.


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Definitely worth a try
 
Before we deliver a stove we normally fire it up and let it run for a couple hours. First we know how the stove works, and second it cures the paint so the customer doesn't get their house smoked up. I think all this stove needs is a liner kit run and it will be fine. If it's not that it has a bad control board
 
Before we deliver a stove we normally fire it up and let it run for a couple hours. First we know how the stove works, and second it cures the paint so the customer doesn't get their house smoked up. I think all this stove needs is a liner kit run and it will be fine. If it's not that it has a bad control board

Thx. I will discuss with the distributor


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